Triumphrat

zmann · 10-22-2005

Hi all,
Can someone provided better steps for steering head adjustment? There are two collars on the column directly under the triple clamp. Do I need to turn both? Which order? What is the right tool for the job that won't chew up the metal? How do you know when it's tight enough?
Thanks!
ZM

DarkSkies · 10-22-2005

You will need the special tool from Triumph - T3880024. Essentially a deep spline socket. It costs about £35.

Also a C spanner that will hold the lower adjuster nut whilst you tighten the locknut..

Remove the bars. Remove the headstock nut, slacken the top yoke clamp cap heads, remove the yoke to gain access to the bearing lock nut and adjuster nut. Remove the locknut and washer. Tighten the adjuster nut to 40 Nm. Then slacken it and tighten it to a final torque of 15 Nm. Replace the washer and locknut. Hold the lower adjusting nut in place with a C spanner and tighten the upper lock nut to 40 Nm Replace the yoke and tighten the top nut to 90 Nm and THEN the cap heads to 20 Nm. Replace the bars. Then check the slack has been properly taken up by lifting the front end and grasping the forks and 'rocking' back and forth for any play.

Tip. Get a good size bath towel and protect the clocks as you will need to drape the bars and yoke in front of the forks if you don't have an assistant to hold them for you.

Tip. Protect the surface area around the top nut with layers of masking tape to prevent scoring of the yoke by the socket. You need a 36 mm socket (I checked).

Tip. Keep the brake reservoir upright to avoid air getting into the system - or re-bleed after you've put everything back together.

What a carry on! I miss the 80's when adjusting steering stem bearings was done with a C spanner without the need for disassembling everything.

[ This message was edited by: DarkSkies on 2005-10-22 15:44 ]

ELP_JC · 10-22-2005

*****. I thought you 'misread' the thread and were giving instructions how to change fork oil :hammer:
I've read a lot 'loose steering head bearings' reports. How often are they supposed to get loose with normal use? Should be a 12K-mile job.
Great instruction man. Still better to do it ourselves than the hassle of taking it to a dealer just for that. Where did you buy the proper C-spanner? Thanks.

DarkSkies · 10-22-2005

Quote:

On 2005-10-22 12:11, ELP_JC wrote:
*****. I thought you 'misread' the thread and were giving instructions how to change fork oil :hammer:
I've read a lot 'loose steering head bearings' reports. How often are they supposed to get loose with normal use? Should be a 12K-mile job.
Great instruction man. Still better to do it ourselves than the hassle of taking it to a dealer just for that. Where did you buy the proper C-spanner? Thanks.

I would assume Triumph sell them too. I made my own using a conventional C spanner and judicial use of a hand file. Probably wouldn't be too hard to make one from some flat 3 mm bar though.

I've only had to do it the once at 4,000 miles thus far (which surprised me - I didn't ever have to do my ZRX's - even after 32,000 miles.

zmann · 10-22-2005

Superb details! Exactly what I needed.
Thanks.
ZM

DarkSkies · 10-22-2005

Quote:

On 2005-10-22 14:50, zmann wrote:
Superb details! Exactly what I needed.
Thanks.
ZM

You're very welcome.

If you don't live too far from a bicycle shop you might take the locknut down to them to see if they have a C spanner that would do the job - I seem to recall push bikes often require them for adjusting their headstock bearings.

DarkSkies · 10-22-2005

BTW I just checked. The yoke top nut requires a 36 mm socket.

[ This message was edited by: DarkSkies on 2005-10-22 15:42 ]

02S3 · 10-23-2005

I made my own tool for the top nut. I made it from a 1" socket using a Dremel with cut-of wheel and a die grinder. It works very well and it lets me torque the top nut properly. Previously I had removed the nut with a punch and hammer. I had to reinstall it with the same tools. But, because I couldn't torque it properly, It would loosen again within 100 miles or so. Since using the new tool it has stayed tight for about 1000 miles.

qc415 · 10-25-2005

a punch and a hammer will work to get out that funky bolt in the triple clamp but it's pretty soft metal so I make no promises as to how it will look once you finish.

DarkSkies · 10-25-2005

Quote:

On 2005-10-25 15:37, qc415 wrote:
a punch and a hammer will work to get out that funky bolt in the triple clamp but it's pretty soft metal so I make no promises as to how it will look once you finish.

Well ... you could do that I suppose but what's wrong with using a 36 mm socket? That sucker is tightened to 90 Nm so the force required to drift it round will totally b u g g e r up the nut.

Those holes are drilled for a special tool to preserve the finish of the top yoke (I suspect) but it is hexagonal and an ordinary socket will serve - you just need to temporarily protect the yoke with several strips of masking tape.

[ This message was edited by: DarkSkies on 2005-10-25 17:31 ]