On 2005-10-20 10:38, FelixLeiter wrote:
FrankP; I read your article on the install of heated grips on your wife's SV somewhere when I googled HotGrips. Good job.
The Dual Star grip elements don't require a resistor. If you closely examine the wiring on the elements you will see that there are 2 separate pathways and 3 wires running to each element (2+, 1- ).
This eliminates the requirement of a resistor to consume the extra wattage when the low setting is used. I like the idea of this as it means I don't have to find a place to mount a resistor hidden from view.
I like the looks of this system. But how does it mount under the throttle handle? Or, does it just heat through the entire handle? It also seems a lot of heat would be lost to the metal in the bar, or is this an issue. As easy and cheap as these look they would be a GREAT addition for Colorado winter riding...
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Quote:
On 2005-10-20 18:26, Geof3 wrote:
I like the looks of this system. But how does it mount under the throttle handle? Or, does it just heat through the entire handle? It also seems a lot of heat would be lost to the metal in the bar, or is this an issue. As easy and cheap as these look they would be a GREAT addition for Colorado winter riding...
I believe that the elements are glued to the bar on the clutch side, and the throttle tube on the throttle side. Then any style grips could be used. I imagine that HotGrips and other grip style heaters are simply similar elements encased in rubber, kinda like the caramel in a caramilk bar.
For accessory power sockets Powerllet has a wide range of model-specific and unilversal kits available, to add BMW-style sockets to your bike. I have one on my Valkyrie and will soon have one for my '04 S3.
Just posted similar info in another thread. I oughta be comissioned :-D
I used the relay so that I'm not tied directly to any Critical systems ( it's my aviation background coming out!.)
The relay allows me to run the grips off the battery terminal through an in line fuse. That way the headlight circuit isn't overloaded in high mode. If I get a short, the fuse blows and my hands get cold. No risk of the headlight and tail light going out.
A freind's S3 smoked the wiring inside the headlight housings when he upgraded his bulbs. There isn't much headroom in the wire gauge for extra current.
I just never like adding to the load on existing circuits. Seems to always cause problems sooner or later.
Thanks for the compliment about Susan's HotGrips. Her bike had an extra switched wirte in the headlight so it was easy to do.
The only reason I can see that HotGrips doesn't use a design similar to the one you posted is so they can use the variable current control to give a greater range of adjustment. I actually am leaning that way if I can find room for the control- it does not use a resistor.
I do agree that the light wires are probably not a wise choice to use as a current source. I am still hoping the 10th fuse position is switched. Will try and remember to check it tomorrow.
I can see your post on EastTNRiders but apparently that site requires you to register to see images hosted there. Put 'em up on photobucket or another free pic hosting site. I just looked at my bike and I don't have an outlet, I'm curious to see how yours is mounted.
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