RFID Keyless Ignition

[DEcosse]

Just installed my RFID Keyless Ignition system.
The bike can now be operated with either the key (as per normal), or with the RFID tag.

It is connected with an auxiliary relay power harness (with OEM connectors) that goes between the Key-Switch and the main harness connectors.

I like the Watch-Band style tag for its convenience and ease of use - no fishing in pocket for the key-fob style. And it makes for easy access to the Reader Device.
So you can just walk up to the bike and start it without requiring the key to be engaged or removed. And RFID tags are extremely secure - there are literally millions of codes.
Spare tags are cheap & easy to program - so can carry a spare in your wallet, or even tucked away in your riding gear somewhere.
Range is only a few inches unfortunately, so tag needs to be in close proximity to the Reader to activate - too bad it wouldn't read from one in your pocket! Hence the Watch-band style.
I also have a miniature glass ampoule Tag - the type used in 'chipping' animals. Some guys implant them in themselves!
Don't think that will be me however! (maybe in a glove or jacket sleeve however).

Actually the complete key-switch assembly can be removed if desired - although is nice back-up and no big deal to leave in place.
..... Although for ultimate security, if key-switch is removed, there is nothing to stick a screw-driver in!
The only thing you miss by not having the Key of course, is the steering lock.

The Demo Video pretty much explains it - but I have it operating so that the Reader device is 'powered' by the clutch switch on the ground side (has plus side permanently to battery +); and then the ignition circuit is latched by the output of the Kill/Run switch so it only needs the momentary pulse from the Tag to 'Set' it.
And once the latch is dropped by the Kill switch, it stays off until Tag is re-presented to the Reader.

So the bike remains secure when parked - there is no current drain as it requires the clutch lever to be pulled to activate. And even if someone was messing with it, they can fool around with clutch & Kill switch all day & it will never engage. There is no visual indication of the reader being powered even if clutch lever is pulled.

Here it is:

You Tube

You Tube

[surya]

Very cool, one of my pet peeves is keys jingling around on speedy and the resultant scratches. Where exactly is the RFID reader installed? In doing your research were there higher power options that would read from a couple of feet (tag in your pocket)? Cost and parts source info would be appreciated, thanks.

[Coroja]

Very cool, like we have all come to expect from you, DEcosse.

[kenneth_k]

faaantastic.

[DEcosse]

Originally Posted by surya

... In doing your research were there higher power options that would read from a couple of feet (tag in your pocket)?....

Nothing that I could find
There is commercially available system by company called Bulldog, but that is close to $400!

My detector antenna is directly under that front tank cowl that is on my model. The detector box can go anywhere within the length of the antenna cable.
That can go anywhere on the bike really, even in the tail. You only have small gauge wires going between the relay power section and the detector so that is not a big deal to mount wherever.
You want the relays pretty close to the Key-Switch connector however, so that you are not running power wires too far.
I used 14 ga for the relay interconnects

The base reader is available from EBay - pretty inexpensive (search on RFID reader and you'll find it)
The exact same module is available from independent EBay sources in both US and UK.
It will work as-is but I modified it to have a transistor driver output stage for added reliability. This stage will drive up to 600mA (which would effectively run ~ 4 relays in parallel.)
But there are lots of people using the module as-is.



This shows the module with the added components shown above and I have also mounted the LED directly into the box (you only really need it for testing)



If you don't do the output stage mod, then at least connect an additional diode in series with the output, to prevent the voltage from the Ignition circuit feeding back into the device.
The diode D1 is the one that activates the latch - the others across the relay coils are for turn-off spike suppression.
(There is not one across the third relay because relays 2 & 3 are connected together)

This is the interconnect ciruit
(at least for mine, very similar for the 1050)



Clutch switch wire is Black/Orange on 05+ - feeds the ECM
If concerned about interference, you can use an additional relay to isolate this signal to the RFID module.

I used OEM Key-Switch connectors - available from Eastern Beaver and Panasonic micro relays & sockets from same source.

Connector Set 8P250-CNA

20A micro relay & socket

Optional 3-way connector for the Detector Module
3P090WP-MT Connector Set or 3P110 for example

Diodes you can pick up from RadioShack.

Optional RFID Tags

* If anyone plans to do this on a pre-05 model, it requires an additional mod if you plan to use the clutch switch for the power enable. On those bikes, the clutch switch signal, when open, goes through the solenoid and then through the headlight-cut relay to ground - so needs a mod for that. I will only supply the details for that if required as is unnecessary complication for anyone else.

One quick additional operational note:
Because of the 'latch' even if you use the key-switch, the ignition will remain on, even if the key is turned off and the key removed!
So the Kill must be operated to drop the latch, even for that circumstance.

[bira]

These systems are fairly secure but far from unbeatable, especially if they're using a 40-bit key, which many unfortunately still do . As a matter of fact, cars with these systems are stolen all the time, especially in Europe where they've been around longer than here. However, as an additional security measure it is a great idea.

[DEcosse]

Originally Posted by bira

These systems are fairly secure but far from unbeatable, ....

A van will beat any security system

[VS3]

You're so smart I'd let you work on my bike.

I installed an electronic cruise control on my FJR but this is a few more steps outside my comfort / confidence zone. Great stuff to see, thanks for sharing and including wiring diagrams.

[DEcosse]

Originally Posted by VS3

... this is a few more steps outside my comfort / confidence zone. ....

It's maybe not so intimidating as first appears
- the driver stage mod is really overkill so you can ignore that first part for all extents & purposes,
So then it is just interconnect wiring and a couple of diodes.

Here are a few more details on the interconnect:



Note that the wire colours for the Key-Switch may be a little different from model to model, but predominantly are all the same and the connector pin numbers are consistent, at least through the range of triples.

[Kin]

Way cool