With the bike on the jack minus the front wheel, lower the jack all the way down and sit in front of the forks. Grab a fork in each hand and tug forward and back. If you feel movement in the forks (and it's not the entire bike moving) the bearings are too loose. If not, you're solid!
I have front forks suspended and their is some play in the bearings.
The Haynes Manual apparently says "Note: Two thin 38mm spanners are required (Triumph Part No. 3880140-T0301) which have an offset square cut into them to accept a torque wrench." So I guess 38MM & thin will work times 2. The picture just shows the distance to the square drive to be enough to clear the head of the torque wrench. That way it will be as close to bearing centerline as possible for the proper torque reading. Maybe 1 1/2 or 2 inches. The nuts look to be 1/4 inch thick or less. It also says the adjuster nut preload torque is 40NM & then the lock nut torque is also 40 NM
I have tried to source these spanners from my triumph dealer and they are £40 each, as I need two I approached someone to make them for me, quote £15 for two. he will flog them on ebay afterwards.
Can some one who has been there, done that and has the t-shirt confirm I need these tools before I start stripping in.
Thanks for you help guys, if anyone is in Essex / London area and want to a loan of these once I am done we can have a communal swop!
Triumph tool data (see photo)
It's 3/8" thick, 8" long, 2.5" wide, & there's 1/2" distance to the torque wrench hole.
White Speed Triple 2006, London. Head rebuild, rear linkage rebuild, FH012 RR with new stator, front fork rebuild, steering bearing replacement, brake upgrades
I have always used socket T3880024 as per 1050 service manual instructions. Jack Lilley has them listed, in case you need one. Should not be too difficult to anglegrind one out of a suitable sixed pipe/socket either. Using the socket you will need to remove top triple clamp for adjustment.
The nut on a 1050 is of the crown type, so I wonder if the hexagonal spanner on your pic will work? Might be that the spanners you are talking about still worked for 955s?
Also worth noting that the 40Nm torque for bearing nut is the preload torque only, you are supposed to back off the nut afterwards and then do the final torque, which if I remember right is more in the ballpark of 15Nm.
Unfortunately Triumph has been shown to be really spartan with greasing the Steering Bearings appropriately.
When installing the replacements ensure they are adequately loaded.
Getting the bottom race off the steering stem can be a chore - if you have access to hydraulic press, easiest way is just to press the stem down through both race and bottom triple together and the bearing will pop off.
Take it to a machine shop or similar with some beer money - 2 min job with a press!
Remember to get bearing seals also!
Got busy and getting to grips with steering bearings.
As you can see I have the tapered bearing races installed.
The bottom race is flush, I think it will seat inwards when I torque everything up while the top race projects to form a lip.
Taking off the bottom bearing race was the hardest as I don't have a machine shop nearby.
Anyhow now I am at this stage I can work out what seals I need.
The bottom one which sits on the triple tree is ID30 OD 53 presumably just to stop grease washing out. On a similar project on a piaggio I used ends of bakebean cans but tey where completely covered by fairings!!!
A seal to retain grease for the top bearing is ID42 OD52. Think a depth of about 5mm will work with this space.