Starter Power Mod - Page 11 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

Speed Triple Forum Rants and ravings about the best naked triple on the planet!

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post #101 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 07:45 PM
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This mod has intrigued me since the first time I read the post. I had some time after work this afternoon so I swung by the parts store. I bought 8' of 4 gauge copper and 6 - 4 gauge by 1/4" copper lugs. When I got home I looked the situation over and was a bit disappointed to see both battery cables on my 09 are hidden in the loom where they go through the sub-frame to the engine compartment. My solution was to run the new cables in line with the old and just leave the old ones in place. Worked fantastic! I ran the cables into place to get an accurate length, cut them on the bike, removed them and then soldered the lugs, heat shrink etc. Then reinstalled them onto the bike. Battery positive to solenoid, solenoid to starter and battery negative to ground. From start to finish the entire job took about an hour and a half.
Results?... WOW! I can't believe the difference in crank speed. My Speed Triple cranks like my FZ1! I'm up in Canada and it's below freezing here today and my Triple fired up like it was July.
I would recommend this mod to anyone who has any concern about their bikes crank over speed. Amazing difference.
All the parts came to about $26.00
I would have liked to remove the old cables just because I'm anal that way, and maybe this summer when I am looking for a project I will. No one would ever know and you can easily wrap the ends and tuck them out of sight as I have done. But all that extra weight!! Ha Ha!
Anyway, thanks very much DeCosse and OnD this is a great afternoon project.

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post #102 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
The same current flows through both supply & return - if you upgrade one side, you should also upgrade the return.
Your kit, your customer's choice I guess
Yes, the current flows through both legs. However, some things to consider:
  1. The (+) leg from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter is 42" in length. The wire starts at 6 AWG and necks down to 8 AWG at the solenoid.
  2. The ground length is 27" and is 6 AWG. This is about 35% shorter than the (+) leg and is thicker throughout.

The voltage drop in the (+) leg is greater than the (-) leg. Equalizing (approximately) the legs is where the real benefit lies.

We've tried 4AWG throughout, 6AWG thoughout, and combinations therein. In the end, we selected what we did based on actual starting performance, ease of installation, and attempted to minimize clutter under the seat. In the beginning, two additional 4AWG cables really added some bulk around the battery. If you add a battery tender lead, heated gear, and/or fuse panels, the real estate gets cramped very quickly.

The real proof, however, is in the cranking speed. I've down numerous trials here on an 05, 07, and 08. Results are consistent from bike to bike.

With the ground cable:


Without the ground cable:


On a side note, a weak spot on the 1050's I've had here has been with cable corrosion - primarily on the solenoid to starter cable. The lugs are not soldered and there is no heat shrink. Corrosion begins at the lug and starts to work it's way up the cable. This isn't enough to cause problems in most cases, but over time as the bike ages...you get the idea.
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post #103 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tire Torcher View Post
Results?... WOW! I can't believe the difference in crank speed. My Speed Triple cranks like my FZ1! I'm up in Canada and it's below freezing here today and my Triple fired up like it was July.
I would recommend this mod to anyone who has any concern about their bikes crank over speed. Amazing difference.
Good description...starting is now very 'Japanese'. No more anxious starting after leaving it outside for a few cold days.
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post #104 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 11:49 AM
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Well I took the time to read this entire thread last night. I guess I should have done that before I posted my results, and certainly before I took on the mod. Luckily I took the easy way out and just ran my wires parallel. But posting like I was the first to figure that out kind of made me look like a tool. Oh well live and learn.

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post #105 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 07:03 PM
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This should be made a "Sticky" in the Speed & Sprint section.

Best $35 ive spent on my bike yet. The before and after video in the first post is no exageration.
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post #106 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-08-2013, 02:30 PM
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could this mod be done by a car electrical specelist as i have one near me
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post #107 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-08-2013, 03:19 PM
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could this mod be done by a car electrical specelist as i have one near me
Of course. I upgraded several of my cars years ago.
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post #108 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 01:33 AM
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I dont believe this reduces voltage drop, there is no voltage drop in DC.
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post #109 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akita45 View Post
........there is no voltage drop in DC.
Ask Dr Ohm about that - I think he might beg to differ
You need to go back to school - that is pretty much electrical theory Day #1 !
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post #110 of 165 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 08:28 AM
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Re: Starter Power Mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by akita45 View Post
........there is no voltage drop in DC.
Thank you.
You made my morning. I've sent a link to this thread to my first year instructor at SAIT


Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Motorcycle.com App

DO NOT GO TO ECHO CYCLE EDMONTON , AVOID THEM AT ALL COSTS .
Sprint GT swingarm and 2011 wheel swap
SUPERCHARGED Speed Triple
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