Triumphrat

mullingar84 · 11-15-2009, 02:00 PM

I posted on this forum a couple months ago about a stalling problem i was having with my '03 speed triple where at idle, if i rev the engine, when it drops back down to idle it stalls out. Also, if i am driving and i come to a sudden light from accelerating and let off the accelerator and pull in the clutch, the engine will die. It starts back up after sitting for a couple of seconds.

It was recommended that i check the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) and see if it is sticking.

The valve was stuck when i checked it - basically couldn't move it by hand. Got it moving and cleaned it up and put it back in the bike. Made sure that when i pulled and let out the throttle it moved, which it did. Thought my problem was fixed and put the bike back together. Had to do the remap key thing to get rid of the check engine light that resulted from me turning the bike on with it apart. Got rid of the error, but i still have the same problem. No Change. I think it is not opening fast enough to keep the bike at idle, but it is opening because i can keep the bike running (and drive it relatively well) by making sure that i come off of the revs slowly.

I am still pretty convinced that it is the valve that is causing the problem, but i am hesitant to buy another ($115) because i heard it could be a problem with the voltages that it is getting.

My question after all that (apologies) is whether there is a definitive way that i can check whether the IACV is working or not. Also, does anyone have one that they might be willing to let go for cheaper (grad student budget)

Anyway - any help would be greatly appreciated. I really want to be able to open it up again and not worry about this issue.

-Jon

DEcosse · 11-15-2009, 02:19 PM

Before - when you say it was 'stuck' did idle speed not change at all when it was warming up?
Did it remain at same speed all the time regardless of engine temp?
What was that idle speed in that condition?

If the idle speed is controlling properly at the correct rpm (1200 when warmed up) then the IACV is doing its job.
It should probably start out somewhere around 1675 when cold depending on your temperature there at the moment
So if it starts out there and then adjusts down to control at 1200 when fully warmed up (>74 deg), your IACV is working.

Your problem sounds more fueling related than idle speed related.

Check out this thread to re-adapt your fuel trims.
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...-re-flash.html

.

mullingar84 · 11-15-2009, 02:38 PM

This problem has gotten progressively worse over the past couple of months. Before it was a problem, I would start the bike and it would rev around ~1600 and then drop down to ~1200 rpm. Now that the problem is worse it starts around ~1300 and then falls to around ~1000 and is not constant (it jumps around and sometime sounds like it will stall out, but then recovers itself). I apologize for not knowing exact rpm values.

I will read through the fuel map post and get back to you about that

-thanks for the help

DEcosse · 11-15-2009, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mullingar84

This problem has gotten progressively worse over the past couple of months. Before it was a problem, I would start the bike and it would rev around ~1600 and then drop down to ~1200 rpm. Now that the problem is worse it starts around ~1300 and then falls to around ~1000 and is not constant (it jumps around and sometime sounds like it will stall out ...

It actually sounds like it was controlling before but now it's not.
When you cleaned it, what did you use? Did you use some kind of solvent that may have shrunk the o-ring? Did you replace the o-ring?
Certainly start with a new o-ring on the valve.

49287 · 11-16-2009, 08:23 AM

Check the corrugated hoses from the IACV to the intakes. They often turn brittle and crack. Also the fittings can come off the ends of the hoses.

Also check that the hoses are connected to the 3 correct stubs on the bottom of the IACV. There are 4 stubs with one blanked off and it's easy to put them back on wrong.

Failing that you could have an intake leak - if the idle has become worse over time then you could have an intake gasket leaking and sucking in air.

mullingar84 · 11-16-2009, 11:07 AM

I was aware of the 4th valve being closed off and i am pretty confident that i put it back the way that it was. I also checked the hoses going to the IACV and they were in good shape from what i could see.

I will take it apart again sometime this week and look into it some more.

Thank you for your help.

-Jon

Wildcat · 11-22-2009, 05:41 PM

after cleaning mine i have a high idle. i also cleand the thottle bodies. blamed the iacv for my problems but turnd out that over time the buildup in the throttle bodied made them airtight at idle and now that there clean they were not. adjusted them so they were all closed and the idle came back down to 1200-1400. still gonna have teh dealer hook it up to the computer and do whatever it needs to make it better. btw mine is the older 01 model speed triple. it actually has a kind of idel screw u cant get to as well as an iacv.

cornpie955 · 03-02-2010, 07:39 PM

Has anyone experienced this ............ My 1999 ST with 2000 Daytona engine recently installed acts like this: Starts and idles fine,idle picks up to about 1,500 as it warms up,runs and revs on the lift,put it in gear (or pull the neutral switch lead,so its not clutch drag) and it idles low,around 1K and will die if you rev it and let the revs fall,restarts ok and revs and falls if in neutral. ????????????

bradtx · 03-03-2010, 09:39 AM

mullingar34, There can be two other sources to your problem that are often overlooked. One is throttle body balance the other is the TPS.

The IACV doesn't only control idle, it also closes compleately when throttle is applied enough as determined by the TPS. The IACV can cover up and hide a throttle body imbalance, to a point.

Brad