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Speed Triple Forum Rants and ravings about the best naked triple on the planet!

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Old 07-02-2009, 10:30 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Oh no no! Pretty soon someone is gonna get offended and this will turn into a name calling!

Suck mobile, you douche!! or castor! or, whatever.

just kidding, friend! I don't care what oil you use! Let's all be friends.
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:16 AM   #32 (permalink)
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My dealer puts in 20w50 for some reason unknown.
I always have to argue with them to put in the recommended
15w50. Also whats the average miles people switch to full Synthetic?
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:33 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Wet clutch = change frequently. And change the filter every time -- not because the filter is cashed, but because there is a bunch of funk oil left in the filter. Dump the oil out of an old filter after a change and you will see what I mean, lots of sh*t you can't get out and wouldn't want pumped back into your motor.
Even though I spend $10/qt for oil and $8 for a filter I try to go by the 3000 mile rule, but it will vary depending on how I've been riding. If I've been on long touring rides, I'll let it go longer. If I've been on a track day, I will change it MUCH earlier.
Again, research yourself and use your own opinion. But I use Mobile 1 racing 4T (a full synthetic), and it really looks good for a lot of miles. Stays golden and doesn't go black for a couple thousand miles. I guess some of that could be due to that fact that I use a high end filter and have done all the scheduled maintenance myself, at the recommended intervals, but I've gotta think the high quality oil plays a role.

Research yourself, there are so many opinions you will never reach a conclusion by asking the question on this site.
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:51 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by joeyantalas View Post
on the first service they said ecu must also be read errors.also the 6000mile chnge intervals only apply to triumph oil mobil 4t my dealer wants110 dollers for change but 54$ evrey 3000 or 11110$ every 6000mile . i just dont want any issues while bike is under warrenty. but im agree with you you should be able to do your own worki
True, and I'll have the dealer read the ECU for me. Prolly around $30 for that service. Which comes under the heading of special tools. Other than that, I know how to do all the inspections it lists and change the oil. I'd also stick to the intervals in the manual, not do it every 3k miles. Unless your oil is dirty or you really wring out your bike on every ride. Not that there's anything wrong with that!
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:55 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 03Speed3 View Post
Oh no no! Pretty soon someone is gonna get offended and this will turn into a name calling!

Suck mobile, you douche!! or castor! or, whatever.

just kidding, friend! I don't care what oil you use! Let's all be friends.
Eat hot Pennzoil, you Quaker State-loving Yamalube user!! How was that for name calling?
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:40 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I haven't participated in one of these in quite a while so...

I have a '97 T509 that will be turning 80,000 miles shortly. The clutch works perfectly (original), the transmission works perfectly (even the questionable 4th gear has never been an issue), shifts smooth as silk and the engine has as much or more power than when I got it and burns almost no oil.

I have used a variety of oils in it from Castrol Act-Evo, to the Triumph Mobil oil but mostly Golden Spectro (the synthetic blend stuff). All synthetic blend, all 10W-40. For the first 30 or 40 thousand miles I changed it every 3000 but for the last 40 or 50 I've gone to every 4000.

I guess my point is it doesn't really matter what brand of oil you use. Personally, I would stay away from car oils. Today's car oils are barely even suitable for cars anymore. Ask anyone who has wiped out a cam, set of lifters and rocker arms using modern car oils in a "vintage" engine. Granted our engines don't have those type of sliding friction areas that this has been traced to but still, how much money are you really saving? 10-15 dollars every 3-4000 miles? If that kind of money is a problem, why are you riding a premium motorcycle? Uh, they sell SV650's at the Suzuki dealer dude.
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:08 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by scottmacan View Post
My dealer puts in 20w50 for some reason unknown.
I always have to argue with them to put in the recommended
15w50. Also whats the average miles people switch to full Synthetic?
I can guess the unknown reason... 20W50 motorcycle oil is more commonly available in various brands (Castrol, Mobil1, etc.) and 15W50 oil is not generally available or widely distributed. Which means the dealer using 20W50, a) can pad the price on oil mark-up, and b) doesn't have to order the harder to find Triumph-specific 15W50 from Triumph suppliers and pay their mark-up.

It's no coincidence that 20W50 is easier to find, it's the recommended weight for Harleys.

P.S. I found both Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40 & 20W50 for $9.50 a quart here in NJ at both the Pep Boys and Autozone nationwide chains.
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:41 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Mobil1 Racing Oil

The manual that covers my '06 said I can use the Mobil1 Racing 4T 15w50 or the Mobil1 Racing 4T 10w40. From speaking to several people the 15w50 is a winter weight oil that is a little bit heavier then the 10w40. I picked up my oil at Autozone for $10 / quart. I noticed that the shifts seem a little bit smoother with the lighter weight oil so I would recommend going with that.
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:14 AM   #39 (permalink)
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other way around
usually u run a lighter oil in the winter
and heavier in the summer
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:36 AM   #40 (permalink)
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I've been using Repsol 4T Synthetic 10W-40 ever since the first change, and I have 14k miles now (every 3k or sooner). It's just what's locally available.

Every time like clock work, the shifting gets shtty right at 1500 miles into the fresh oil.
I guess the crappy shifting adds contrast to how great the bike feels with fresh oil in it...

I'm gonna try something else. This repsol stuff dont last.
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