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Old 05-16-2005   #1 (permalink)
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250 Grand Prix
 
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Anyone have a set that they want to sell? I'm thinking about gutting a pair, and I'd rather not do it on my only set.
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Old 05-16-2005   #2 (permalink)
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I had the same thing in my mind. I like the looks of the original cans but I am not willing to spend 500€ for the factory cans.

The stock ones have riveted ends but I am afraid that they are just for decoration and mere caps over the welded cans. If they truly can be dissassembled, it would not be too hard to convert them to straight baffle and class fibre packing.
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Old 05-16-2005   #3 (permalink)
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That's what I was thinking. I just need a pair of cans that I can drill out the rivets on and see how much ***** I can remove from the inside. Hopefuly these cans will open up once the rivets are drilled out.
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Old 05-16-2005   #4 (permalink)
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I gutted my stock cans If you don't have a tig welder don't bother. It took me almost 10 hours .It sounds loud looks very cool.It is way lighter.I put 2inch perferated tube wraped with glass packing.I had the dealer put the aftermarket tune in it.It runs too rich from 3000 down and perfect over that.We dynoed it.It made 109.23 first pull and 108.01 second pull.it hit 148 in fourth on the dyno.And only 140 in sixth with me on it on the road.It was 67 degrees out when dynoed with a dynojet. uncorrected 1:00.If anyone is intrested in seeing the photos of the can mod let me know and i will work on posting the pics.
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Old 05-16-2005   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'd like to see the pics.
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Old 05-17-2005   #6 (permalink)
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I gutted mine sunday, I was going to take pics, but I had a terrible time and was so pissed I didn't bother. I knocked out the catalyst material and drilled a hole through the center divider so gases can flow straight through. The catalyst material was tough to dispose of, unlike some automotive ceramic honeycomb mesh, it's a metal mesh and was tough as hell to break up and take out, I drilled a hole through the center and used an air hammer to break it up. I only removed the cap on the inlet side, then pop riveted it back together with stainless blind rivets. Looks stock unless you look in the back, you can see the hole through the divider. It sounds louder, has more cackling and popping on deceleration. I'd like to hear how it compares to the factory stainless ones.

I worked up a crude diagram

Blue- outer body, red-inner, green-flow path

The entire outer shell has sound deadening material sandwiched between it and a perforated inner liner (not shown in diagram)

Thx Brad

[ This message was edited by: kbbeckius on 2005-05-17 16:29 ]
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Old 05-17-2005   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the diagram. It looks almost like it could be drilled out and the cat material knocked out without drilling out the rivets. Of course that'd leave a lot of loose ***** inside the can.

Any noticable difference in how it rides?
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Old 05-17-2005   #8 (permalink)
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Holy *****. I think I leave them alone for now. I have all kinds of welding equipment at work (not laser yet) but I think it is not worth the hassle.

A friend of mine is swapping a pair of titanium Termignonis on his tl1000 fo Yoshis and I think I just grap them and shorten if necessary. Then I fit some smaller than 2" baffles and I think thats it. Or I could just fabricate some stainless cans from scratch. But that´s next winter I guess. :evil:
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Old 05-17-2005   #9 (permalink)
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Wait a minute...how about drilling some holes to the divider plate? It can easily be accessed via the outlet. All you need is a long enough drill bit. That would make some of the exhaust pass straight through.
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Old 05-17-2005   #10 (permalink)
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That's what I was thinking. Use a long drill bit and go at it from both sides to get some of the cat out of the way too.
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