Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade

[DEcosse]

Here is another potential pitfall - whether doing the full mod with the new R/R or simply doing the 'charging mod' with an OEM R/R
(Charging mod is bypassing the OEM Wiring and connecting output of R/R directly to the battery - the + via 30A fuse.

The question has arisen as to "Why is my fuse holder melting - yet the fuse is still intact?" :confused

This is regarding the use of the popular ATM mini-fuse holders for this application.



I have now seen quite a few problems associated with this.
Even though the component is rated for 30A, the physical connection is simply inadequate for this high-current circuit.
The resistance of the connection between fuse and holder is significant enough to create a voltage drop across the connection.
This in turn disspates power in the form of heat and you get resultant melting, exacerbation of the problem & even arcing as a result.

The math goes as follows:
V = I * R - we already know the current is high (30A circuit) and as long as 'R' (resistance of the connection) is low, the volt-drop will also be low.
However if R is significant, then a voltage is dropped across it.
Then we have P (power) = V * I
Substituting for V, P = (I * R) * I = I^2* R

So the power is proportional to the square of the current times the resistance.
So as resistance increases the power rises dramatically and the power correspondingly!

Net result - HEAT! = further increase in resistance which exacerbated the problem - viscious circle!

Here is perfect illustration of the consequence:





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So my general recommendation is NOT to use one of these mini fuse holders in this high current circuit.
The MetriPack 280 also uses the same mini ATM, however the physical contact of the fuse in the holder is much better that that of the Cooper Bussman style.
(note that I use the term CooperBussman style - I suspect the issue may be with low cost/quality copies of the real McCoy and not necessarily that of the original - however I would avoid this size completely, regardless of manufacturer, to be safe)
I have no empirical data to support long term robustness of the Metri-Pack but just personal opinion on the aspects of the physical design
To the contrary, I have seen quite a few failures as shown above, in the CooperBussman ATMs!

If you only have access to the CopperBussman style, I would suggest to use the physically larger ATO size as a more robust element, with more surface contact of the fuse in the terminals.


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[DEcosse]

Here is an example of an FH008 R/R that was re-worked for a Bonneville. This will also work really well on many other marque's mid-range bikes
- great match for the 675 Daytona & Street Triple which have a horrendous R/R failure rate! .
The R/R was sourced off a late model Honda CBR; the input & output plugs replaced with Metri-Pack 280 connectors and a Merti-Pack Fuse also utilized in the output-battery harness.
The end-user just needs to replace the OEM output connector on the stator harness and bolt up the new R/R

[DEcosse]

And here's another great option for mid-sized bikes - FH016 from Kawasaki ZX6



Per the OEM manual specs from Honda and Kawasaki, this unit has comparable current rating with the FH008 unit which has until now been the ideal replacement choice for the middle-weights.

So I purchased one to test it out, see how it compares.
I wired it up as I usually do with the MetriPack connector/fuseholder kit and plugged in to my complementary connectors already used for an FH008 kit aboard my Mrs SV650S
(since I made input & output connectors the same I just had to connect it to the already configured stator and battery harness that were on board)

It wires up essentially the same - there is one extra wire that is only for the Kawasaki application (it is used for their headlight inhibit until running circuit - essentially just an auxiliary output tapped off on of the input wires from stator). This can be ignored for most other bike marques.
Used my last piece of flex-sleeving on this one - waiting on shipment of another roll coming in.

This particular unit tested at 14.5V.
I ran it up to about 5K rpm and the output was rock solid.
(actually slightly lower at idle, 14.45V - but just off idle and all the way beyond regulated nicely at 14.5V

I did not really run for very long - had intended to take bike out for 20 min run and check the temp afterwards.
However, even for the few minutes it was running, it never got above ambient temperature.

Verdict - nice unit, should be a good fit for the SV.
Long term reliability unknown factor at this point - but based on the MOSFET technology and the resultant cool operating temperature, that would be expected to be comparable with the FH008 one would hope!

[DEcosse]

The MOSFET R/R are excellent replacement choice on Bike models that suffer from chronic R/R failures.
However, if the model generally has a high incidence of Stator failure, another consideration might be to go a Series Regulator.

In lay terms, a shunt regulator 'shorts' across the stator, while the series regulator goes 'open' to the load.

One such manufacturer is Cycle Electric - however they cater predominantly to the Harley market and their R/R devices are prohibitively large.

However one available compact model from another manufacturer, is the Compufire 55402.



Bottom line - if your model (across the board) has rare instances of Stator failure, the MOSFET units are ideal replacements. But if your models suffers from high incidence of stator failure, a Series R/R like the Compufire may be another choice.
Note however that a shorted shunt regulator can certainly contribute to failure of the Stator at the same time, particularly if prolonged operation in that state.

[DEcosse]

Looks like someone at Triumph was paying attention - the latest fix for the 675 Street Triple and Daytona is .............. a Shindengen FH012 MOSFET R/R

These are being retrofit as OEM equipment on failures also.

[DEcosse]

Hre's suggestion for pretty simple plug n play upgrade for most Triumph models:
pretty much all the Triumph range (except for most recent) all use essentially the same SCR R/R with the same configuration of connectors.

Now - since the problems with the Street Triple & Daytona 675, Triumph has released an upgrade kit which comprises of an FH012 Model R/R, Adapter Cable & Bracket

But instead of buying complete kit from Triumph, you could just buy the adapter cables (Triumph calls it Link Lead) - T2500676 - that is only about $10 USD - ridiculously inexpensive for what it is!



Then you can buy your own R/R - used if you can find one - or even a new Yamaha FH012 is going to be much cheaper than the Triumph R/R part itself - but the Triumph cable makes it plug n play
Yamaha R/R part number is 1D7-81960-00-00
This adapter cable will also work with the ZX10/ZX14 FH010 model R/R which you may also include if you are searching for used.

Note that this cable will connect the unit electrically but you may still have some mechanical modifications to accommodate the new module.

To install an FH010/FH012, the mounting holes are at a different spacing - you can either fabricate a mounting plate, or it is relatively simple process to elongate/slot the holes in the R/R heatsink to match the original bolt spacing of the OEM R/R - about 2 mins work with a rat-tail file.

Be sure however that your OEM connector from stator is in good shape however - this is also a failure point!!!