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Old 04-02-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Mountain KinGdom of Lesotho

LESOTHO 2008

24 March 2008

Gauteng to Fouriesburg via Heidelberg, Villiers, Frankfort, Tweeling, Reitz and Betlehem.

Distance: 309km

The weather was excellent until we reached Frankfort where we encountered dense fog. It was a good time for a coffee stop. The only place open for coffee:



We arrived at our base camp for the next couple of days. The place is just outside Fouriesburg, called Camelroc and it is conveniently right next to the Caledon Border Post. The accommodation is excellent and the hosts very nice. www.camelroc.co.za



25 March 2008

We decided that depending on the weather we will either go into Lesotho today or tomorrow. Since there were no clouds we decided that it is wise to go in today. The weather can change very rapidly in this region.

Caledon Border post to Katse Dam via Butha Buthe and Leribe.

Distance return trip : 356km

You go through the SA check point where your passports are stamped. They then let you go to the Lesotho port of entry. Here you must stop at a boom gate and press a button. You will receive a coupon and the gate will open. You proceed towards the checkpoint. Here you must hand in your passport and fill in an entry form. It is wise to obtain it from the guest house and fill it in prior to arrival at the gate. It saves a lot of time. You receive your passport back and proceed to another gate. Here you have to pay R5 entry fee (road tax). You hand the slip to the gate attendant who will check for your license disk on the motorcycle and then let you go into Lesotho. Do not take any photos at the Lesotho port of entry. Total time spent at border posts 30 minutes.

Caledon Border Post (SA side):



Keep in mind that the speed limit is 50km/h inside Lesotho. We only saw 50km/h signs and it is not indicated when you can travel at higher speeds. Stick to this limit until you leave Hlotse (Leribe). We noticed that they only pull over visitors to enforce this speed limits measured by invisible speed traps. Apparently you must pay a R30 spot fine or bribe them for R200. Stick to the R30 it saves a lot of time.

Once pass the second police control point (50-70 kilometers pass the border) consisting of a boom gate blocking the road the whole scene changes. You leave the “townships” and continue into an amazing scenic country. One turn follows the next and my children stated that it is like a slow roller coaster ride. The engineers developing this road must have been part of a bikers club, because for one or other reason, they forgot to put in straits and stuck to twisties and hair pins.

Mountains and more mountains:


Continue.../
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Old 04-02-2008   #2 (permalink)
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This truck was battling the ups and downs:



Roads are in good condition. A couple of potholes nearer to the dam but on average very good:



Amazing Scenery:



Do not stop until you get into the mountains. The locals are friendly and wave and greet. Once you stop they come from out of nowhere and surround you to beg for food, money and sweets. If this happens, take the sweets and throw it as far as you can and if possible over the nearest edge. This is not very polite, but efficient. They start fighting each other if you want to hand the sweets out in an orderly fashion.

Some locals:



Look how close the villages are to the road. Here you don’t encounter any businesses or shops. Only villages of small farmers depending on their live stock and crops to stay alive.
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Old 04-02-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Donkeys are everywhere. I think it is the most donkeys I have ever seen:



Some strange forms of transport. Don’t speed, you may encounter this around the next corner:



Look at the road in the left bottom corner:



Water from the mountains is a frequent sight:

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Old 04-02-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Then all of a sudden around the next corner you will see the first sightings of the Katse Dam:



You will have to get to the other side to see the Dam wall so be ready for another 30 kilometers.

Some dam pics :



From Katse Village Lodge:



The Katse Dam Wall:

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Old 04-02-2008   #5 (permalink)
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We did the trip to the dam in 5 hours. This was due to a lot of stops and because the scenery were so awesome. On return it only took us 3˝ hours. This was as a result of a very dark cloud appearing from nowhere.

End of the day:



The trip was amazing and no incidents of stone throwing or any other incidents that was brought to my attention during the planning phase was experienced.

There are a lot of routes around Fouriesburg, Ficksburg and Clarence to ride. They were all in good condition. The road between Betlehem and Villiers is not so good. Luckily the potholes are so big you can see them for kilometres ahead.

Total Trip Count (4 days)

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Old 04-02-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Excellent report, pleased you finally got it sorted.

The ride looks enormous fun also, when will you return?
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Old 04-02-2008   #7 (permalink)
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We returned on the 4th day. We only spend 1 day in Lesotho. Did not take a lot of photos on the return trip. Will post some of them:


Pride and joy:


All forms of transport in Africa:


Some more Cattle:


Where did all the mountains go?

Last edited by Vlermuis : 04-02-2008 at 05:56 AM.
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Old 04-02-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the posting. The only stories I've ever heard about the place are those of the locals pelting visiting tourists with stones.

The SA RAT annual rally is held in Fouriesburg in September. We had about 50 bikes last year- photos in my album.

Dave.
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Old 04-06-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Beautiful scenery and a fascinating ride. Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Great ride and tremendous pix.
The ST looks the perfect bike for the roads & distances.
Your report reminds me of my childhood living there; but it was called Basuthuland then.
Africa is like malaria, when you have it in the blood you can never get rid of it.
Thank you for the adventure and revived memories.
Cheers
Rhodie
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