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Old 02-22-2008   #91 (permalink)
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Killing Caves

Down some precariously steep steps are two holes in the mountain.



Here the Khmer Rouge would push their victims to their deaths.



Now a caged ossuary contains some of the victims remains.



The Khmer Rouge tried to buy the bones in an attempt to hide their actions.



A recumbent Buddha keeps them company.
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Old 02-22-2008   #92 (permalink)
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Riding down from the summit.


The road to Pailin stretched out partially hidden by the haze of breakfast fires.


Crossing some bridges were a tricky business - if it wasn't the steel plating or broken planking...


It was mines.
Just off to the right there was a mine clearing team.
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Old 02-22-2008   #93 (permalink)
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MAG - Mines Advisory Group



When I last rode this road I came across this amazing group of all-women MAG de-miners clearing a village of mines.
You can read the efforts of this remarkable organization, here: http://www.mag.org.uk/page.php?s=4&p=676



This is painstaking and extremely hazardous work.



Locals got used to living among the minefields.



Biking in Cambodia is no longer a game of Russian Roulette that it once was.
Providing you keep to well ridden or trodden paths you should be OK.
Taking a leak in outlying areas is best done standing on the road.
There are some 'hard-core' bundu-bashers riding the red 'dancing' roads of the provinces
but even they seek local knowledge before going truly off-road.
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Old 02-22-2008   #94 (permalink)
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Signs for handing in weapons still ask for cooperation from an area still outside the control of central government.



At a school that was abandoned some years ago, children now play.



Finally after three and a half hours I had covered the 80 odd kilometre to reach Pailin


Today the roadside gem stalls have gone - trading is done away from prying eyes.
This is a city where menace is tangible - Khmer Rouge leaders, Bothers No3 & No4, still live openly in town.
I had little interest in cruising the seedy 'red-light' district and moved quickly on to the border 20 kms away.
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Old 02-22-2008   #95 (permalink)
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Just inside Cambodia are a number of casinos where Thais come to gamble and fool around with girls.
Gambling is illegal in Thailand.



Then after a few moments to check-out at Cambodian immigration.
Thankfully I was not asked to go over to Customs,
as they had been too idle to issue me with the correct paperwork when I entered from Laos &
therefore had technically been riding illegally throughout the time I was in Cambodia!



Thai formalities were quickly and efficiently done and i was back in the Land of Smiles



Thai roads were an orderly transition back to the Bangkok, the asian City of Angels 5 hours away.

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Last edited by Rhodie : 02-22-2008 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 02-22-2008   #96 (permalink)
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Post Ride Report

So after two months and some 4300 miles and three countries later,
how did the Scrambler hold up?

After the niggling electrical issues I had in Chiang Mai which were not down to Triumph,
I can truly say that I am wedded to this magical little beast now.

The YSS Shocks held up both front & back ends admirably.



The Rocker Cover leak never proved to be a real issue and the oil-change in Phnom Penh was probably unnecessary.
I will be changing the car filter to a K&N with Mobil 1 when the gasket gets changed under warranty.

The Karoos which proved problematic on the slick Thai roads proved to be a good choice for Cambodia.
I will be changing them over to Tourances next week.

The Wunderlich lights proved to be literally a life-saver both in the fog-bound mountains of Laos and the dust-out roads of Cambodia.

The up-armouring of bashplate, engine & hand guards proved themselves in a low speed spill on the Burmese border
as well as riding the dirt roads in Laos & Cambodia.

The Harrisson Billet-6 front calliper was ideal and gave real confidence when the need to scrub-off speed quickly.



I am still unconvinced by the centre stand which adds weight, caused issues with the tyre and needed a bungy cord to keep it anchored
instead of clanging against the swing arm and the ground.
The only thing it does do is add some protection to the rear calliper - but hopefully Old Scratcher is finding a solution for a top mount for this.
Oiling the chain can still be done even without the extreme "XR-way" as seen in Vientiane.

The rear rack finally cracked on Cambodia's bumpy tarmac.
It was fixed in Phnom Penh, but I am having it remade in stainless steel with added support.
A combination of Touratech straps and cargo nets held everything in place.

Also, the small rack "fanny pad" needs remaking with a steel base and firmer padding.
Will post pictures when complete.

The only other thing that has needed cleaning are the K&N filters which are easily done removing
copious quantities of Cambodian red dust, and then re-oiled.

The Sargent tank-bag's strapping proved quite inadequate and broke requiring the use of further bungy cords.

Tools & Spare Parts
I had taken an extensive set of tools - a Cruz Kit from New Bonneville, relevant spanners, allen keys & sockets.
Inner tubes & tyre irons along with an electric air pump.
Throttle & Clutch cable. Rear brake & gear lever.
DOT4 brake fluid. Brake pads.
Plutoline chain oiler.
Mercifully apart from chain oil, gaffer tape & tie backs and the use of the allen keys to change the racks
the rest were totally superfluous.

The only thing I will try changing next, is the front sprocket from 19T to 18T and maybe even down to 16T.

This ride is now over ....

Thanks for reading and riding with me along the way!
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Last edited by Rhodie : 02-22-2008 at 05:40 AM.
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Old 02-22-2008   #97 (permalink)
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Wow Rhodie, thanks for all the pictures and an excellent trip report! Better than National Geographic! Glad you made it safely.
The photos of Angkor and Ta Prohm are truely amazing, thanks for taking us there.

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Old 02-22-2008   #98 (permalink)
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WOW! I started rereading your thread and was so enthralled my wife asked "So what's keeping from dinner this time?" When I showed her your pictures and report, she gently shoved me off the computer chair and said "Go eat." I finally got back on - the next day. What an amazing journey and adventure! Thank you for sharing!
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Old 02-22-2008   #99 (permalink)
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Pleased you enjoyed it.
I learned long ago never to argue with SWMBO!
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Old 02-22-2008   #100 (permalink)
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Excellent Rhodie! I will re-read this over time, great trip and glad the Scrambler held up well.

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