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Ride / Trip Reports Short solo cruise? Long-distance group tour? Tell us what it was like...

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Old 02-04-2008   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhodie View Post
Sure Ice - wasn't sure anybody was reading this.
.................Try and update over the w/end.

Cheerio from Cambodia.
Rhodie
Don't know about everyone else, but I'm spending less time on the site because things are getting a bit repetitive. Threads like this REALLY boost the interest level - thanks so much for taking along us with you.

Great trip, excellent photos & interesting comments - please keep it coming.

Ride safe & make sure you can "count to five on each corner" as they say when you are done!

Alex

(who is more than a little envious!)
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Old 02-04-2008   #52 (permalink)
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I agree with you Oz, kind of the same old stuff so this adventure report has been a breath of fresh air, also reminds one about what these bikes are for.
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Old 02-04-2008   #53 (permalink)
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I've been following your travels. Fascinating stuff. I appreciate and admire your efforts, skills and enthusiasm.
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Old 02-06-2008   #54 (permalink)
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Vientiane to Pakse

Back to the trip...

I had hoped to catch up with David who I had ridden into Laos with.
He had stayed a few days longer in Luang Prabang with his noted Blues singer girlfriend, Meow.



But he was having electrical problems with his Africa Twin and had broken down twice before hiring a pickup to bring him and his 14 year-old beast down to Vientiane.

So I set off just after dawn leaving Vientiane before the morning’s traffic got underway.
The last few days had seen periods of torrential rains and it wasn’t long before it started spitting and then raining properly.
Traffic was light and I was able to make good progress in spite of the rain.

Heading south-east the road only connected with the Mekong a few times. At Thakek, almost half-way,
I pulled into the sleepy riverside town for coffee and toast.
Filling up at the local Caltex the bike ran poorly until the next refill a hundred miles or so further south.
My Californian mate Jim, who runs bespoke dirt bike rides had warned me of adulterated fuel, even from ‘reputable’ filling stations.
If you ever into adventurous dirt riding you can contact him through www.remoteasia.com



Riding Route 13 south on the good Chinese road, apart from boredom there were the natural hazards of chickens, goats dogs, hogs & kids.
But it was the cows and water buffalo, whose tendency to bolt across the road meant a cautious use of the throttle.



The burning season has begun and the air was filled with smoke, getting into my nostrils making me sneeze violently in the helmet and adding further visual impediment to my already bug-splattered helmet.



It was late afternoon when reached I Pakse, the southernmost town in Laos, just in time to watch the sun slip slowly down behind the Mekong and Thailand.
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Last edited by Rhodie : 02-15-2008 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 02-06-2008   #55 (permalink)
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Again another early start as I had wanted to make Phnom Penh before dark.
I was on the road to make the 150kms to the border before dawn, so when the sun rose it bathed the paddy fields in a golden light .


Glorious



Past the 4000 islands above the waterfalls –


when I last stayed here I had to cross on a pontoon boat made from canoes.
An interesting experience


The Phapheng Waterfalls – its name meaning the ‘Noise of the Mekong’ and reputedly at 14 kms, the widest in the world.
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Old 02-06-2008   #56 (permalink)
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Crossing the border in the past, the road was an abysmal potholed bone-jarring jungle track.



You can see from my trip with my son on the GS here @ YouTube.


This time Laos customs just waved me through and I found what I believed was a newly graded jungle track.



In fact what I was looking for was this red road highway with burning brush and earth obstacles.

No matter I was soon through both Laos &Cambodian immigration.
Cambo customs hadn’t woken up yet and I was told to complete the paperwork for the bike in Stung Treng 50+ clicks further south.



When I had last ridden this road in the rainy season the dirt road was a muddy quagmire in parts, now it is smooth grippy Chinese asphalt.

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Last edited by Rhodie : 05-30-2008 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 02-06-2008   #57 (permalink)
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Crossing the border in the past, the road was an abysmal potholed bone-jarring jungle track.
You can see from my trip with my son on the GS here @ YouTube.




This time Laos customs just waved me through and I found what I believed was a newly graded jungle track.



In fact what I was looking for was this red road highway with burning brush and earth obstacles.

No matter I was soon through both Laos &Cambodian immigration.
Cambo customs hadn’t woken up yet and I was told to complete the paperwork for the bike in Stung Treng 50+ clicks further south.



When I had last ridden this road in the rainy season the dirt road was a muddy quagmire in parts, now it is smooth grippy Chinese asphalt.

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Old 02-06-2008   #58 (permalink)
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The burning continues.



At Stung Treng the brokenroad down a causeway to board the ‘conventional’ ferry proved some of the most challenging riding to date.



When I last crossed here they loaded my GS onto the prow of the boat, for a 15 minute heart-stopping trip across this large tributary river of the Mekong.

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Last edited by Rhodie : 02-15-2008 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 02-06-2008   #59 (permalink)
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The newly built Chinese bridge was a tantalising but useless sight.



For the populace continued to use the ferry.



Stung Treng is the main clearinghouse for drugs in South East Asia so it was ironic to be greeted by this billboard warning of trafficking.
I wanted to be legit so headed off to the customs office, but was abruptly to be on my way they weren’t interested in paperwork!
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Old 02-06-2008   #60 (permalink)
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I still had 500+ kms before Phnom Penh and it was late morning so I gassed up on some urine coloured fuel and headed out on a dirt road.



This soon turned to tar and for a while I was the only vehicle heading on the South East loop by the Vietnamese border under a burning sun – the gauge read 42 degrees celcius- with a blue sky and white puffies.

My serene riding sojourn came to an abrupt halt when I realised that Cambodians have scant regard to traffic norms or regs.



Oncoming cars would cut the corner even though there was no other traffic – except me –
and bikes barely register in car/truck/bus/coach drivers’ consciousness, as a hazard.
I was forced onto the roadside dirt more than a few times.



Initially I would beep and aim a kick at their side-door until I realised such actions were futile and concentration was better spent on avoidance.

As I neared Phnom Penh I met the outbound weekend commuters.
Bluntly put, this was terrifying, as I would meet two oncoming trucks racing each other vying for the slim space on a single lane carriage way.



This included pigs going to market.

When I reached Phnom Penh I was pretty spent, having been in the saddle for nearly twelve hours.
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