Triumphrat

Reaper · 02-10-2008

Gday guys,
I have scoured the forums for info on sprockets/chains ect, and still lack some info, so if you can bear it, post your tech knowledge on the following.

Currently have a 955 Daytona 2003, current sprockets are 19/44, this i know.
Apparently i have a DID-X 106 link chain, is this a 530?

I have seen various posts about using a 17/44 combo, will i still need a 530 chain if i use the 17/44 set.??

Thanks in advance.

KitNYC · 02-11-2008

I'm not sure what size chain the 'tona takes. (In fact, I'm not even sure what size my Sprint RS takes! The fiche just says 108 links.) But....

530 (630, 525, etc.) is the link size. It will not change with sprockets. If you lose 2 teeth up front, you may want to go to a 104-link chain, but it will still be a 530 if 530 is what you have to begin with.

I'm sure someone else will chime in here, but from what I've read it's probably not a good idea to go down 2 teeth in front, just from a chain wear viewpoint. You might be better of going up one in the rear instead.

My Sprint came with a 19T front; going down 1 tooth to an 18 made a world of difference!

Cheers, HTH,
-Kit

Reaper · 02-11-2008

Thanks KitNYC appreciate the input,,had an RS myself for 12 months, great bike, infact,, i loved it,,,lol,,

Reaps

Grashopr · 02-11-2008

Chain numbers are decoded as such:

The "5" is how many 1/8"'s from one pin to the next (5/8" pin center to pin center)

The "3" is how many 1/8"'s between the plates (3/8" wide on a '3', 2/8" (1/4") in a '2')

The 0 is a value on the roller diameter.

So a 530 is 5/8" from pin to pin, and 3/8" from plate to plate. While a 520 is 1/4" from plate to plate. As KitNYC said, if when you order your new front sprocket, as long as you get it in a '530' width, your new chain will still need to be a 530.

+1 on KitNYC's opinion of -2 being too much. However I dont know if it will be a chain wear issue, but it could be a chain slider wear issue. On the top and bottom of your swingarm near the front there is an upper and lower (or a one peice that wraps around) chain slider that keeps the chain from eating the swingarm as it travels from and to the front sprocket. If the front sprocket's diameter is small enough, it's conceivable that the chain will start to rub on the front edge of that slider more than normal and eat the slider prematurely. It is possible that it could wear the chain out faster, but I've never seen a chain actually get tore up from a slider, only from grinding on the swingarm after the slider is gone.

I've also never gone to a -2 front sprocket. -1 typically gives enough of a performance gain without sacrificing highway rideability for me. Remember, about every 3 teeth added to the rear sprocket is the same as removing one tooth from the front sprocket. I'd go a -1/+1 (-1 on the front, +1 on the rear) and try that. You'll be AMAZED at how much responsive the bike is at low revs. However, you may not be amazed at the higher revs you run at normal highway speeds.

If you are looking to go to a 520 chain (the benefits are less recipricating mass which equals to better acceleration and it's rumored that turn-in is slightly easier), you'll need a '520' width front and rear sprocket and chain. If you're already replacing both sprockets and chain anyways, going to a 520 instead of the 530 you've currently got is just as easy.

Reaper · 02-11-2008

Thanks Grashopr very informative, nice work, I think with my new found knowledge i may just lose one at the front,and replace the rear and go to the 520,.
One last question remains, will the chain length have to change ? or will i have enough adjustment in the original 106 link?

Thanks again, makes me glad i joined the site, loads of info for my beloved Tona...

Grashopr · 02-11-2008

The price difference between a 106, 110, 112, and 115 is so small, if it were me, I'd buy a 112 or 115 and then cut off what I didn't need.

Whether or not it will require a shorter chain or not depends on where your chain is now. If you're at 106 links, and your rear wheel is moved all the way back in it's adjustment, then yes, you'll probably need to go to a shorter chain. However, if your rear wheel is all the way forward, you'll have enough adjustment to take up the slack. Either way, I'd buy a good 520 112/115 link chain and cut it down as needed, then check it again after a few hundred miles for it's first stretch.

Reaper · 02-11-2008

Thanks Grashopr, I can buy with confidence now,,thanks for taking the time to help, much appreciated..

Reaps.

mzavala11 · 02-11-2008

Just a word of advice on the 17/44 set up. i have a 02 955i and i tried the same set up and had to go to a 18/44. i commute about 24mi each way to work and found that at cruising speeds(4500rpms vs. 5300rpms) i would get a buzzing of the handle bars. i loved the acceleration with the 17/44 but not the buzz. i'm running a 18/44 set up and has worked out better for me.

Reaper · 02-21-2008

Update: Took the advise as suggested, the 18/44 and new DID 114 link (Gold) lol, are due today,,, Thanks a heap guys, now if someone could suggest a good Tuneboy map for it???