Triumphrat

JSimpson

I am having some ignition issues with the bike and could really use some expertise and help. The symptoms are pretty simple: the bike intermittently loses ignition in one cylinder. The behavior is more like a weak spark then completely cutting out, although that happens, too. I have isolated the problem at cyl. no. 1. by disconnection the coil low voltage leads one at a time. I have also eliminated the coil as the culprit by switching the coil with another cyl. The problem remains at cyl. 1. I also took a voltage reading on the primary (low voltage) connectors at the coils while the bike was running and get a much lower reading on cyl. 1 than I do on the other 2. Cyl 1 reads about 1 volt, while the 2 other cycls read about 2 volts. (I know this is probably not a meaningful test, but it does indicate something amiss with cycl 1. ) If I disconnect the low voltage leads from cyl 1 the bike runs about the same as it does with them connected (i.e., it's basically a 2 cyl motor) and the voltage coming from the low voltage leads reads about 12. Frankly, this reminds me of breaker points dwell problems from waaay back before electronic ignitions.

At this point I am pretty sure the problem is upstream of the coils which leaves me with three more possibilities:

1. The pickup sensor on the crank (not likely as when this failed before it shut the entire game down like a light going out)

2. A short somewhere in the wiring harness. (I've looked very carefully and do not see anything that looks like a problem and I really do not want to start unwinding the wrapping.)

3. A problem with the igniter assembly (the black box under the seat, the VERY expensive black box).



I've been chasing this problem for a long time as it has progressively gotten worse. Sometimes the symptoms would only appear for a few seconds. But a couple of weeks back the bike had to limp home from work on 2 cylinders. So, now I really need to sort this out.

I do have the shop manual and have gone through all the recommended tests etc. that I can without owning their $900 idiot light tester (and yes, I asked how much that thing costs). The manual ultimately says that it is possible for a bike to pass all the $900 idiot light tester's tests and still have a bad igniter assembly. At which point the manual says that swapping the igniter with a known good one will provide positive diagnosis. Of course, I do not have a spare, known good igniter and would really not like to buy one on speculation.

If anybody has any ideas I would love to hear them. Thanks

KitNYC

First, I'd try replacing the plug wire on cylinder 1 just 'cause it's the cheap, simple thing to try. Failing that, you might want to ask in the T3 forum.

Cheers, HTH,
-Kit

JSimpson

Kit,

Thanks for the idea. But I already eliminated the plug wire as a potential culprit by switching it with the no. 2 cyl. wire. The problem remained at cyl. no. 1.

But thanks for the thought.

ckassen

I know that this is an elementary question but have you switched the plugs around to different cylinders? And also, I would check the main engine ground, just make sure that everything is tight. And I have also had this same problem, sounds kinda like a v-twin. But it would only happen with 93 octane gas when the engine was cold once it warmed up it would go away(almost acting like my old 2stroke). But my bike seems to run a little rich...The iridium plugs also seemed let it mess up more than the others, never checked my voltage though.

JSimpson

The plugs have been switched (similar to the plug wire swap between cylinders) so I know it is not the plugs (or the plug wires, or the coil).

SWare

Have you tried a test plug to see if you are really getting a weak or no spark to that cylinder?

Stan

Jhumphrey

I dont have a manual present but it should indicate if the low voltage measurement taken is in spec or out, you dont say which. I never suffered an ignitor problem but with solid state electrical systems, my experience has been an all or nothing problem.

Have you checked the fuel system; throttle body sync, leaking intake boots, stuck choke push rod? When was the last time the valve clearance was checked?

Good luck.

John21

The answer: New coils from Nology. I have read dozens of threads like yours. I even experienced the same thing on my 900 motor.

http://www.nology.com/profiremotor.html

Most everyone ends up replacing their coild with Nology and the problem is gone. That is after replacing everything else first..........John

trypcil

Clean the L/T side connectors to the coils and make sure of a good firm fit - before you buy new.

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