Hi Zam.

Thanks for the great mod. I haven't done it yet but I've been having problems wih my electrics lately and even got myself stranded after riding with the heated gear on a cold morning and after the bike sat for about a month without charging. I thought I just drained what was left of the battery and charge it. I connected a volt meter and noticed the drain, or short-comings of the charging system. I thought there was something wrong with the regulator but after reading what DickeC wrote on T595, I think I have found the source of the problem. DickeC had a link to this thread, which pointed out the issues.

The battery drain was more apparent after adding more to the bike, Gerbing heated liners, Firstgear heated gloves, then add on a Lowrance GPS and I had myself a dead battery. I am a mechanical engineer so electricity IS magic as someone already stated. I added the amount of draw, in watts, from each accessory and it seemed that the 40A alternator should suffice; I don't know what the Sprint takes for running so I have no idea what is left for my add-ons. Does anyone have this info? Maybe Triumph should publish this info so we don't get stranded by drawing more than the alternator can handle.

I digress, this is an excellent post and if I found it earlier I could have saved myself a ton of time and worry. I will complete this mod over the weekend and will report my findings.

Thanks Zam and also Dicke C (for posting the link on T595).
Awesome Thread.

Peace

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05 Silver ST 1050

This is a great idea. I am a chiropractor, I am not the best at picturing these things in my head. I am mechanically "competent", not great not bad. I was wondering if you could post a few pictures of the wire splicing and the connections along the way. This would help the visual oriented, I am more kinesthetic learn by doing, but pictures would help immensely here, I have a 2005 ST and found one day with my grips and jacket turned on riding in the cold that my battery is a bit sluggish on the next start.

Thanks in advance if you can post some pictures.

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Dr Triumph

My Photo's...

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...howtopic=29975

If you go to that link there is some additional details and info w/ pics

I am about to do the charge mod to my 01 tiger and was wondering. Once you have done the buton hook connections, and taped all the connections up, do you still have to re-connect the plugs from the rectifier back to the harness?
Could someone tell me where the battery ground to the frame and engine is located.
There have been other posts detailing a similar mod that entail spade connectors and cutting off th whole connector all together. Not sure I want to go this way.
The mod posted by zam70 sure looks to be the best way.

gc

zam70,
Am I to understand that you do keep the plugs connected after the button hook connection and the main fuse in the fuse box still plugged in?

GC

Originally Posted by gbcphoto

zam70, Am I to understand that you do keep the plugs connected after the button hook connection and the main fuse in the fuse box still plugged in? GC

That's how I did it on my 03 Tiger and it works great.

Originally Posted by gbcphoto

....Am I to understand that you do keep the plugs connected after the button hook connection and the main fuse in the fuse box still plugged in?

Originally Posted by AVM

That's how I did it on my 03 Tiger and it works great.

Sure it will 'work' but you have the ability to pass 60A in that situation - may as well not have it fused at all!

If you follow zam70's instruction in original post verbatum, then the 'button hook' connection is on the bike main harness side of the connector plugs, therefor the connector plug must be plugged in or you will have no connection from the regulator.

You should install a fuse in the bypass line to the battery & remove the primary fuse in the fuse panel.

See this post for explanation on why you should remove the fuse.

http://www.triumphrat.net/daytona-de...ml#post1010284

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GSXR 1000 Front End Swap

DEcosse is dead on.
I left the plug so an RR swap would be plug and go.

The safest (and smart way) is how DEcosse depicted.

Originally Posted by zam70

...I left the plug so an RR swap would be plug and go.....

I agree with that from that perpspective - as you indicate zam, the smaller gauge wires are in main harness anyway.
If mine ever fails again (I believe I've reduced that possibilty greatly by adding the better heatsink - the heat is what kills these things) then I would have to re-wire the replacement again as opposed to plug n play at that point. That wouldn't be an issue for me personally but your advice is well suited to those who don't want to face this rework again after initial mod.
It's all good either way - The main thing is that if the mod is done on the main harness to pull the fuse to keep the protection as designed.

Kudos to Hokie incidentally - as I re-read through this thread this morning, even though acknowledging himself as an electronics novice, recognized the potential issue with leaving both fuses in circuit.

Originally Posted by Hokie

....you are by-passing going through the fuse block, correct? If that is the case, did you unplug the 30amp fuse in the fuse block? If you don't do that, wouldn't you be running two 30amp fuses on essentially the same circuit? ....

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But again zam, thanks for bringing this simple mod to everyone's attention - regardless of exactly which point it's connected (before or after the connector) it is a great mod & will operate just as efficiently either way, so that part comes down to personal choice.

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GSXR 1000 Front End Swap