Triumphrat

Hokie · 12-29-2007

Just to make sure I understand... by doing this mod, you are not only increasing the size of the wires from 10g(?) to 12g, you are by-passing going through the fuse block, correct? If that is the case, did you unplug the 30amp fuse in the fuse block? If you don't do that, wouldn't you be running two 30amp fuses on essentially the same circuit? (forgive me, I'm not up to speed on electronics.) Couldn't that be a bad thing?

I've got an 01 ST that I bought used last year and to my knowledge it has the original battery, but it starts and runs fine. The only accessory I have is the Triumph heated grips, but when I plug up to my battery tender, 9 times out of 10 the battery is not at optimal charge, even immediately after a 30 minute commute home at 4K rpms. (again, that might be normal) Also, my heated grips have been a disappointment. I have the $30 Symtec grips on my DR650SE and on low, they are warmer than the Triumph grips on high. Wondering if this mod wouldn't help that... I'm wanting to get some heated gear and was just trying to make sure my system would support a Gerbing jacket liner.

Also, can anyone give a long term update? I've always heard you want 14+-.5 amps to keep the system healthy, but at the same time, I had a stator burn up on my first bike, so I'm leery of putting too much power on the system.

Again, sorry if any of this is just my electronic ignorance, but I want to make sure I understand this before I give it a try. I haven't put a meter on my system yet, but will do so as soon as I get a chance.

Thanks!

zam70 · 12-29-2007

your thoughts on the main fuse is correct BUT - your main fuse is kind of a redudant useless fuse IMO - most cars actually do not have a main fuse like a motorcycle - my general thought is, if you blow the main power feed fuse, you're probably screwed anyway (this is just my personal thoughts on the subject and by no means law...) the only circumstances I can think of that will cause a main fuse to blow is bad additional wiring, improper fusing of other items or during a bad wreck where the wiring harness gets crushed

you cannot "pull" more power from the stator than it will produce, you are simply reducing resistance across the charge circuit (higher resistance makes the charging system actually work harder creating additional heat and will shorten the life of all components involved).

I have simply found that the wiring from the regulator to the battery is to small and to long - this has been true on every bike I have checked.
The easiest way to check is, after a ride (turn your accessories on to create a good draw) feel your regulator wires - if they are hot - they need help - if not and your voltage reads fine, , you're probably OK

Hokie · 12-29-2007

Thanks. I'll check it out the next time I have the bike out.

Patman1200 · 01-15-2008

Hi ZAM70

I followed your advice on here after finding that the original 2001 Tiger wiring was only delivering 13.3 volts at best to the battery. No wonder it was eating 1 battery every year. After bypassing the Triumph wiring altogether I wired the reg/rec output direct to the battery (as Suzuki do on the Bandit 1200) and I now get a healthy 14.5v charge.
I also found that ont he 2001 onwards Tigers the alternator output goes to a connector on top of the left hand side of the engine. Then there is 3 feet of wiring that goes across the bike back along the engine, back across the bike to the reg/rec input. I just moved the alternator connector direct to the reg/rec thus saved another 3 feet of useless wire (Do the designers have any idea about basic wiring ideas?? The less connectors and wiring, the less problems will occur in the future.

Cheers for your advice!

iansoady · 02-13-2008

Just to add to the chorus - I did this mod (or a slight variation) and running the Tiger up it's a steady 14.5 volts from idle on up regardless of what is switched on. A great result.

Grashopr · 02-13-2008

One of my Daytona's has an aftermarket 'Dixie Horn' setup on it that has a built-for-cars air pump that draws a TON off of my battery. Normally I need to have the bike reving at 4k+ just to get the pump to work correctly. I have quite a bit of wiring to go over this weekend, I am going to see if this will make my horns play better too. Thank you!

Sprocketjockey · 03-09-2008

Zam...you are THE MAN!! I did the mod to my 2002 Daytona. Fixed my charging system gremlins. I gained just over a volt at the battery...from 13.1v to 14.3v. The lights don't pulse at an idle anymore and the voltage doesn't drop when the bike comes off idle.

I used 10 ga wire and tied into the wires on the rectifier side of the plug. I figured if the purpose of the exercise was to cut resistance, why go through a plug?

I AM STOKED!! I owe you a drink, Bro!!

zam70 · 03-09-2008

Sprocketjockey

excellent!

the only reason I tapped in after the plug was:

-the wires from the regulator are a larger gauge than the wires on the bike side of things
and
to keep it easy to swap the regulator if it smokes...

in the end, what ever works.

I'm pleased to see this has helped

Dicke c · 03-28-2008

Holy Thread resurrection.......

After finding this thread I have at last fixed my sick Daytona....You Sir, are a Gentleman..........

zam70 · 03-28-2008

Maybe This Should Be Made A Sticky?????