Triumphrat

rickj · 07-04-2007

I have two cheapo torque wrenches that have done OK for my jeep work- control arms, transfer case, etc) but I want to do the valve adjustment on the 04 TBS and think that a better Torque wrench is in order. I can probably spend no more than about 125-150 $$. For that I COULD get 2 craftsman clickers- but I think I 'd rather get a good 3/8 drive instead- So far I've been pleased with some of my NAPA tools...
Anyway- any thoughts?
If no brand suggestions (yeah- just get snap-on) what about most useful range for working on bikes.

[ This message was edited by: rickj on 2007-07-04 21:50 ]

rickj · 07-05-2007

Funny you should ask- I've been looking into this a bit also. I'd get the 3/8 drive first. That'll cover the lower settings. You'll be able to do covers, plugs, valve adjustments and other basic stuff. If you already have a 1/2"drive that you trust you'll be covered; if not you might reasearch the sears quality and get one of each now-though it sounds like you are ready to pay a step better than craftsman for ONE- but I have no idea what to suggest. NAPA has quite a few on their website.

Mecchanica · 07-05-2007

Great mechanics can use cheap tools, lesser mechanics need good tools, and inexperienced mechanics need great tools, as they don't have the developed skills to overcome the tool's lack of quality.
You will never regret getting and using good tools. They are a lifetime investment. The best torque wrench I ever used for motorcycles was a 3/8" drive, flex head, ratcheting reversible 0-75 foot pound pre-set click type Snap-on item. I have a non-flex head version that goes to 100 ft lbs. and a big half inch drive version, too, in case I go nuts and start working on heavy machinery again.
Splurge, don't look back, and you will be happy while you work.

rickj · 07-05-2007

Thanks man- I actually went to NAPA and got their GOOD (expensive) 3/8 drive- it runs about 10.9 to 105 NM) That seemed to take care of most of the settings in the manual- I (MY opinion) believe the lower torque settings are more critical- so I'm replacing the smaller cheapo first.

Your timing was perfect- even though the list was about 240 I paid around 149- pushed my budget a little but your comment helped!! They are good to me cause I use them and let them know that I know good partsguys are skilled!!

NEXT HURDLE- when wifey gets the cc bill!! I prepared by painting the back of the house, taking off the deck, building a patio, coating the driveway, transplanting a few bushes, saving about 300 on audi and jeep maintainance...it's a game we play- after 27 years it's kinda funny!!

[ This message was edited by: rickj on 2007-07-06 07:20 ]

Mecchanica · 07-05-2007

I just took delivery on about five hundred dollars worth of misc new parts. I had just painted the insides of two closets, finished three unfinished bookcases, did some work on all the cars, including replacing an exploded radiator in her car, and got a friend of mine to resurface our parking area. I then get to point to the neato things I did and she ignores the charges. We play the same game.

Mojoinco · 07-07-2007

1/4" beam type (pointer -- old school) torque wrench. Beam types don't have any particular wear, just watch the pointer and don't let it drag across anything. Also, as you use extensions, you lower the actual torque reading due to the torque and bend taken up in the extension (some extensions are even designed this way to work with impact wrenches -- the colored units used at a lot of tire shops). Barring a beam type, others with the crank and click kind LAST. Why? When is the last time you heard of anyone getting a torque wrench calibrated? Clickers depend on springs and ramped settings. Less tech, more accuracy. Most equipment has a problem with the extremes of its range, so don't think that the 10 Nm setting will be very close. And it's the smaller nuts and bolts that matter most (way easier to over torque and strip/break something). Look around and see what's on the web 9ebay as well). you might be surprised what a little surfing and watching will bring.

Mecchanica · 07-08-2007

Dead accuracy in the amount of torque is less important in most applications than getting EVEN, reproduceable torque readings. This is particularly true in headbolts and case bolts. A two or three percent departure from true torque is not important in most applications as long as the wrench is consistent. Click type are fine.
Working with the beam type requires consistency of angle of view. If you are in tight quarters, or have to be in a particular position, you can lose any advantage you think you may have.

uzidzit · 09-07-2007

When torque wrenches of the breaking type are used in about the bottom 15-20% of their range, they will actually loosen the fastener when they break the error can be upwards of 20%. Use of the dial type is best (torque-o-meter). The second best is probably the beam type. torque specs are given for two primary reasons.
1.To ensure even pressure on panels that can warp.
2. To prevent over-tightening of fasteners.

people over tighten fasteners 100 times for every 1 time they are not tight enough!

Weasel Pete · 09-07-2007

It's important to get the proper bolt stretch. If you under or over torque they will loosen up fast and damaged threads will never hold torque again. The engineers that designed your bike spent a lot of time figuring out the correct values and the best way to communicate that to you in the manual.
Read through your manual and jot down all the torque values for the work you're actually going to perform. If you're not going to be tearing down engines and doing all the intricate work on a somewhat regular basis, don't get a wrench for that kind of work.
The most accurate wrenches have the smallest range. A wrench that's 20 to 150 ft lbs will be accurate in a certain area of the range and not so much in another. I have a Craftman clicker that's 5-80 lbs, 3/8 drive. It works good most of the time for the big stuff. It's perfect for axle nuts, head bolts, swingarm pivot, etc. I like it because it's fast. Set it, click, click, click, done.
However, the settings below 20 ft lbs get sketchy. I was doing a job a while back that involved torquing 8 1/4" bolts to 15 ft lbs. For the most part it clicked when it was supposed to, but a couple of them felt different and one bolt snapped the head off without clicking. I borrowed our Snap-On inspection wrench from work and discovered that only 5 out of the 8 bolts were within spec. So I sprung for a nice used Snap on dial type off ebay. I sent it off for calibration right when I got it. My company uses a calibration service for their lab equipment and they do torque wrenches too. I had my Craftsman and the snap-on done for $25. The tech said the Craftsman couldn't really be dialed in very well, but close enough. The values range about 10 pounds in the manual for the big stuff anyway.
Torque becomes much more important in the smaller range below 100 inch pounds. Like the ones used for the small fasteners for the engine covers. It is extremely important that all the bolts are torqued to spec and as close to exacly the same as possible so the cover won't leak. If one bolt is off, it'll throw all the others out of whack. So I recommend a separate wrench for that stuff.
Correct use is important too. Get your technique right, read the instructions that come with your wrench. Only use the wrench to tighten, use another to loosen and preferably always in the same direction. They will remain more accurate and consistent. I use my clicker wrenches exactly the same as I would use a beam wrench. BTW beam wrenches are said to be the most accurate. If you get one of those, get one with an engraved metal guage, not one that can peel off or shift and has a plastic needle.

After all that, you're still reading? I recommend getting a Craftsman or other mid-range wrench because they are decent and cheap. If you can get a dial type even better. Nothing from Harbor Freight because a breaker bar is more accurate. You can get a used industrial wrench from Industrial liquidators or ebay. Check with a local calibration lab to see if they know how to cal the exact wrench you're gonna buy. Also, be prepared if the lab say's it's junk. Of course, Snap-On, Matco and the other high end places are great and last a lifetime.

Shorty · 09-07-2007

Please note that Danaher Tool Group mfg's torque wrenches for Armstrong,K-D Tools, Matco, Craftsman and NAPA (read here ...basically the same item with a different label and different pricing all over the place, with many of them actually being made overseas as with most anything). Proto torque wrenches are made by Stanley Tools. Snap-On's (the ones many of us are used to) for the last 4 years or so haven't been made by their original Mfg. and have been out-sourced like everything else nowadays. Precision Instruments made the torque wrenches for Snap-On since the 1930's. If you really want one of the original Snap-On style units with the quality we're used to and pricing better than the Snap-On pricing check out www.torqwrench.com.
Otherwise in my opinion Craftsman and Proto's work just fine and both are reasonably priced. I use them (and trust them) as much as I do my 20 plus year old Snap-On's. Just make sure they are calibrated on a regular basis.
I calibrate torque wrenches and other types of test equipment for a living. Been doing it for 35 years. Beam type wrenches are good and accurate, it's just that you can't read them too well in tight places. Expect 4-6 % accuracy on clicker wrenches and as stated above the accuracy is only assured from 20-100 % of the range.

Shorty