Triumphrat

JSimpson

I've run into a dilemma. The bike started leaking oil last Friday and after nursing it home and correcting the source of the oil leak (failed clutch actuator pushrod seal) I also wanted to replace the chain and sprockets (they're shot) while I had things apart. Problem is I am unable to break the countershaft sprocket nut loose. Following the shop manual instructions (stand on rear brake to lock things up) did not work. I next placed a padded pipe through the wheel across the top of the swingarm to lock the drive line. Still can't break the nut loose. And I'm using a 17 inch breaker bar with an extension, so I have a LOT of leverage.

At this point I'm not sure what to do. I even went and re-examined to make sure the nut is not reverse thread (looks normal to me, judging from the little thread I can see). I'm very worried that any more force will break something else (something expensive). My next option is to cut the nut off with a dremel tool and a chisle (cut the nut almost to the countershaft trhreads and then split it with chisle).

So, if anybody has any suggestions I'd love to hear them. (And I have considered heating the nut but am concerned about the proximity to gasoline, and excessive heating of the countershaft etc.) Or maybe you can just point out that it is reverse threaded (and I'm on drugs I don't know about). I won't mind feeling like an idiot if I can get this resolved.

Speed3

I have an electric impact driver that will remove the nut in a hurry. But I never use it to reinstall it. Always torque it! So if you can borrow one or get one cheap, that's the way I would go. And it's lefty loosy. :razz:

texspeed

If you don't have an impact wrench I would go the dremel cut-off wheel method. Sounds like you already know what to do!

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"I Live In My World, And I Am My Own King In My World, Whether It Be A Garbage Dump, Or In The Desert Or Wherever It Be".........Charles Manson

Have you tried penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench? Personally, I would try that along with heating the bolt (not too hot) with a propane torch. Liquid Wrench, heat, more Liquid Wrench, sit for a while, more Liquid Wrench, more heat, sit for a bit & try again. If you're that worried about the flame, maybe try heating it with a soldering gun? I actually used Liquid Wrench without heat on my KZ440 after I snapped the chain, but that wasn't easy! (Had to make a tool out of the broken chain & a 2x4 to hold the sprocket in place, & I didn't have a proper breaker bar at the time. Bent some pieces of pipe on that one.) The KZ400 was a lot easier, as the chain was still on the bike & the nut was actually scary loose.

HTH,
-Kit

JSimpson

Thanks for all the input. I did finally manage to break it loose. I just had to try one more time before getting out the cutting tools. I started pondering the ergonomics of the situation. Earlier attempts with the long lever had actually lifted the bike off the paddock stand. So, just in case this helps anyone else...The trick was to stand on the opposite side of the bike facing backwards, place the socket adn breaker bar/extension so that the handle was pointed at the rear axle and lean over the bike, hole the seat with my left forearm and hand and lift with my right arm. I had excellent control, the wrench handle was not pointed at any body work (mine or the bikes) and I was able to stabilize the bike by leaning on it. I think this method would work for other models. Thanks again for the suggestions...

bigern2300

Dang! I didn't geta chance to get in my "Honkin' big hammer and a chisel" suggestion! :-D

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Life's too short to ride Jap bikes!