Triumphrat

bobh · 05-04-2006

I need to replace the (original) worn out front and rear pads on my trophy 1200, I haven't any problem with doing the work, but what type of pads do i get? Kevlar,double H, standard, carbone lorraine and so on. i don't want to fit a set of pads that are over the top and wear out the disc's out in no time. what do you blokes recommend.

Speed3 · 05-04-2006

I've just installed my second set of EBC HH Sintered pads, have 22,500 miles and just replaced the rear rotor. The front rotors are fine for now. Get some sinterd pads. You'll be amazed at the power increase!.

Slinky · 05-05-2006

Just my 2c, but I would advise against using HH pads. any marginal increase in braking power is offset by extra rotor wear.

I tried Carbonne Lorraine on my Kwak, was not impressed with them at all. Poor performance and life expectancy, plus I had to take a file to them to make them fit.

Best to stick to OEM (Nissin pads) they are not much dearer than EBC and they last longer. Failing that I would go with EBC GG pads.

Speed3 · 05-05-2006

I disagree. The increase in initial bite and feedback with sintered pads is worth the slight extra cost you might incur. I put the HH pads on at 13,000 miles, and my front rotors are hardly worn at all! The rear wore past it's limit, because I use it all the time when stopping or correcting my line. Years of dirtbike habits are hard to brake! :razz: But the bike in question is a Trophy 1200, which usually isn't ridden in the same manner as an S3 or Daytona, so go with what you feel you need!

13 · 05-12-2006

Pad choice definitely a compromise between personal comfort and specification (they rebond pads for reuse in some countries)!

PER EBC:
"Double H = More abrasive pad, more disk wear;
Organic (Kevlarâ€¦) = Less abrasive pad, Zero disk wear" (especially if you don't use your brakes???)...
Both statements sound kinda true to me regardless of disk material.

Looked if stock disks are "high carbon content" (the correct match for HH pads) but couldn't locate stock pad (or rotor) spec in book! It'd be interesting to discover that info.

Here's EBC Catalog. Go to page 143 for Trophy front pad specs; page 136 for rear and page 36 for complete Triumph cross reference chart. Appears exact same front/ similar rear spec'd for '94-'01 Trophys and '94-'04 Triples. On a side note, the '05-'06 Triples are spec'd with a HH only front pad, a strong indicator '05's> are factory equipped with "high carbon content" disks, HA! Rears come organic AND HH (an indicator some "new" bike riders aren't confident in rear braking, bootlegger turning ability), Ha!

Anyway, switched to EBC organic pads...
I ride my vintage '00 Triple fast daily rain or shine (except for recent two month hiatus). Triumph pads seemed more responsive over time so'll likely switch back, experimenting to see if itâ€™s me, the disks or actually that Triumph pads are better. Perhaps eventually going with a wavy rotor rated HH to stop DD's.

In the meantime, I'd pursue other simple maintenance possibilities before proceeding with a more aggressive pad switcheroo on your Trophy, so you don't burn yur rotors & loose sleep:

With pads removed, spray brake cleaner on disks and caliper pistons in almost fully exposed ("he said exposed" uh-huh-huh-huh-uh-huh) position (convenient during pad change). This'll clean the brake dust that becomes gooey sticky binding road sludge, for snappier caliper performance. Cover rims with plastic over towel to avoid brake cleaner overspray damage to finish;
Flush/ bleed fluid if other than a nice translucent shade (discolored/ dark fluid's from moisture in system deteriorating inner brake system components).
Notes: Fluid's hygroscopic (absorbs water), so use new unopened bottle for flush/ refill (especially in bloody damp Basing-stoke?). Or just buy small bottles so not too much moist air's in there during storage;
DOT 3-4 and DOT 5 (silicone) are incompatible (like gin and orange juice). Please don't mix or drink these fluids!

If none of this gets it, inspect condition of cables (lube), master cylinders, brake lines, etc.. Wash, wax and ride (don't use brakes for guaranteed "zero" wear and soiled underwear).

Your brakes (and eventually wallet) will thank you for this! If interested but don't feel up to diy, bribe someone to show you how for next trip...

For future reference, here's an interesting trophy brake upgrade to Tokiko 6 pot (vs. stock Nissin 4) calipers!!!

Blimey, to answer your question, Iâ€™d go with stock pads (or EBC organic, NO WEAR???) till determined stock disks rated for HH duty!

Hope this helps!

bobh · 05-13-2006

Thanks for the info,
I've ordered EBC kevlar pads from Busters Accessories (recommended for sports bikes?), but having read posts, maybe should have gone with double H. I am gonna clean/de-dust calipers, copper slip moving bits (excluding the rotors of course) and change the brake fluid as i might as well while I'm at it. The bike has 11,000 on the clock 4 yrs old. Am i likely to find any seized bolts, things that are gonna round off or snap off during the job? Nothing worse than a bolt rounding and finding it's a 2 week wait when ordering a replacement.

Thanks,

Bob.

Speed3 · 05-13-2006

The Kevlar pads will propably work fine. The only thing you might find hard to remove is the pad retaining pin. Loosen that before you remove the calipers, and copperslip the threads on install. Good luck!

13 · 05-13-2006

No worries, simple for you.

Forget which one, but probably pad retaining pin as mentioned by Speed3 above. You'll see. Looks & feels like it just pulls out but (can't recall which) is threaded or has a thin circlip/ cotter-pin on inner-side that's easy to miss. Loosen bolts before removing fully. Bolts/ pads slip right out! Since your taking calipers off to clean pistons, be careful not to loosen caliper "assembly" bolts. Just remove caliper "retaining" bolts, which you'll see mount through calipers onto bottom fork legs. If assembly bolts (which, as you know hold caliper halves together) are mistakenly loosed, simply retighten.

Artistic mood? Look at brake section of any automotive parts store for Permatex brake quiet (in paint spray type cans of varying brands). Before installing new pads, place them friction side down on clean flat cardboard, spraying metal pad backs (not friction side). This eliminates metallic caliper to pad rattling on the road and only takes about 15 minutes to dry.

Wrap towel around reservoirs to remove reservoir fluid with turkey baster. Then nicely wipe reservoirs clean with fresh lint free cloth. Just be careful not to move brake levers/ caliper pistons when doing this or you'll suck unwanted air into line. Then slowly pour fluid in reservoirs about half full. This'll give room for pistons to be pushed fully in, thus making room for thicker new pads (without spilling fluid all over). Pads'll slip right in caliper over disks! Ready to bleed till that nice clean fluid comes through your clear bleeder bottle tube (I use quarter inch clear tubing into a clear quart water bottle with tight hole poked in cap for tube, and a little clean fluid at bottom with tube stuck in it)!

Please don't forget in a hurry - DOT 3 & 4 fluid munches paint (5 doesn't but isn't compatible w/ 3 & 4). If not for a gallon water bottle and soft towel nearby to flush/ dry spilt brake fluid, my rear rims finish'd likely be toast! Flush & dry spilt fluid quickly! Don't let set on paint long unless you like strange abstract designs.

Take yur time with no worries mate, say hi to David Gilmour if you see him flying around there in one of his old planes!

Take it easy!

Stlakid · 05-16-2006

Quote:

Look at brake section of any automotive parts store for Permatex brake quiet (in paint spray type cans of varying brands). Before installing new pads, place them friction side down on clean flat cardboard, spraying metal pad backs (not friction side). This eliminates metallic caliper to pad rattling on the road and only takes about 15 minutes to dry.

SORRY NO! Stay away from this *****! There is NO Mfg that I know of that uses or recommends this junk! It can actually make your brakes squeal where they would not have before....the actual reason they hype selling this junk to you in the first place! It dries into a rubbery surface which has been found to act like a drum and allow the pads to move around to much and make noise. It also has the added down side of insulating the pads from cooling as quickly because they are now insulated from the caliper assembly with this thick rubber insulator. For this reason alone I would never use this stuff! The bulletins I have read from Mfg's recommend the use of anti-seize grease or nothing at all. The anti-seize grease allows the pads to float within the caliper assembly. It keeps things from seizing up (obviously) and will also transfer heat away from the pad surface. Toyota and Lexus actually ship a small envelope of the copper anti-seize lube with their 'Genuine Replacement' pads. You also didn't find any rubbery compound on the OEM pads from Triumph did you. Stay far away from this junk....it's all hype.

Stiles · 05-25-2006

Agreed, two thumbs down on the spray-on "anti squeal in a can". Every car OE I've worked for specifically disclaims use of that stuff and in my (extensive) personal experience with problem-child cars I've never seen the stuff do any good at all. At best it's ineffective, at worst it can attract dirt and gunk up your piston/seal area and/or prevent your pads from moving correctly as they heat up.