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Old 02-07-2006   #1 (permalink)
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I've got to take my bike into the dealer this Friday (about 60 miles away) for some repairs and the bike is in non-running mode. I've never trailered a bike before and was looking for some suggestions on proper tie-down procedures. Thanks!!

John.
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Old 02-07-2006   #2 (permalink)
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John,

It depends somewhat on the type of trailer you have. If you have one setup for a motorcycle (with a channel for the tires, etc.), I would just tie the front down using cheap ratcheting straps (connector straps about 18" long with a loop on each end sure come in handy for the connection to the handlebars to insure you don't get the metal strap connectors anywhere close to the bike--my dealer gave me two of these when I bought my bike). I compress the front forks about half way when tightening the straps--the straps should be at an angle where the trailer connection points are further apart than the connection to the handlebars. The front tire is against the front of the trailer and if it is a trailer setup for bikes it will have some channel going up a foot or so in the front so the front tire cannot move from side to side while you tighten the straps or during the hauling. I then tie the rear tire down so it cannot move--basically you just need to keep it from jumping out of the channel.

If you are using a trailer that doesn't have a channel but has a wooden floor, I would bolt a couple of 2x4's to the trailer floor--one on each side of the tires to form a channel, and then strap her down as said above--this is what I do with my farm utility trailer. One can place a strap over the seat to hold the rear down; however, be careful and don't tighten this too much--the seat has a lot of plastic. I never haul a bike with it resting on the side stand or center stand. Once you tie it down properly it will or should, IMHO, be sitting vertically. I have hauled bikes in the old days for thousands of miles on a trailer I built myself and I have never dropped a bike yet. I would recommend leaving the side stand down so when you release the handlebar straps--release the right one first--the bike will rest on the side stand. It would be imbarassing to drop it at this point.

The dealer will help you load and unload the bike at his shop. If you don't have good ramps, you need to have help at home to insure you don't get in trouble loading and unloading. I use two 2x12 ramps for my farm utility trailer. I park in so the rear of the trailer is very low to the ground and push the bike up one ramp while I walk/run up the other ramp--the ramps are about two feet apart and positively hook onto the rear of the trailer. I load and unload at home without help.

Others will probably cover areas I have overlooked.

Good Luck,
Larry
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Old 02-07-2006   #3 (permalink)
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Larry, thanks for the input. I will be using a standard utility trailer and will use the 2x4 method. What part of the bike do I attach the straps to...the front fork and the rear grab handle?

John
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Old 02-10-2006   #4 (permalink)
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John,

Sorry, I didn't get back to you before Friday! The front straps connect to the handlebars--at least that's all I have ever used. It doesn't matter too much on the rear--you're just keeping the rear tire in the "channel"--the front straps on the handlebars do all the work of holding the bike on and upright. On the trailer I built with a channel and no floor, I used to just tie the rear tire to the channel with a strap through the spokes and around the rim and channel.

Larry
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2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
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Old 02-11-2006   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the suggestions! It made it down to Denver safely. It was a little tense...I just kept envisioning the bike coming off the trailer and taking out seven cars.
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Old 02-12-2006   #6 (permalink)
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Funny coincidence - just posted to a thread in the Hinckley Classics forum, about trailering.

But I just wanted to say that I avoid compressing the forks by attaching the front tie downs to the fork lowers. The angle is sufficient to stabilise the bike and you can put a deal more tension on them.

Probably not a big deal for a quick trip but on longer journeys I think it is worthwhile avoiding stressing the fork seals.

[ This message was edited by: parrycm on 2006-02-11 23:12 ]
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Old 02-15-2006   #7 (permalink)
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All good advice, fellas. I've also have had trailering questions.
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Old 02-15-2006   #8 (permalink)
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You actually want to compress the forks a bit, as that is what really sticks the bike to the trailer. It won't damage the seals in the least.
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Old 02-16-2006   #9 (permalink)
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Since you have a Sprint and bodywork, you will definately want to go to your dealer and pick up one of these Canyon Dancer. It will save the very expensive plastic.
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