Triumphrat

trafficfixr · 01-23-2006

Sorry John, but being an electrician, I have to go with wombat on this one. Never interrupt a circuit after the load.(the lights) Put the switch in on the supply wire to the lights, you never want to make a circuit longer before you break it, it only makes it harder to troubleshoot if there is ever a problem. There is no issue with voltage coursing through a switch, when you turn the switch off(open the circuit) the voltage just stops at the switch. Thats what it is designed to do.

[ This message was edited by: trafficfixr on 2006-01-23 04:29 ]

Sprocketjockey · 01-24-2006

I believe some models have a headlight switch. At least according to my Daytona manual. A picture describing the hand controls shows a headlight switch on the left side.

A 'note' at the bottom says "In some countries, the light switch is not fitted as the lights must operate at all times."

Where could I get this switch?

Slinky · 01-25-2006

UK models had light switches, up until about a year ago.

MickMaguire · 01-25-2006

This is how I understand it: it isn't a requirement to have lights permanently wired on, but it is a requirement for manufacturers to sell their bikes that way in the US. As slinky points out you can get a replacement switch cluster from a salvage yard / ebay in the UK (or buy one new from a dealer if you are feeling rich). AFAIK it will just plug into the US harness with no problems.

Blinkers as running lights.... I think these actually make the blinkers less visible so make an accident more likely... they also make you look like a Harley wanna be :wink:

[ This message was edited by: MickMaguire on 2006-01-25 06:50 ]

Mojoinco · 01-26-2006

I can't speak for other Tirumph's, but a 2003 TBS has no headlight off/delay/start relay. My 81 Yamaha Virago had such a relay. It was triggered by the voltage level from the alternator/regulator. It would turn on if the alternator was putting out enough juice, though if the engine died and it was already latched you would have to cycle the ignition switch. I think my XS1100 may have had one as well. So you cna either junkyard the Yamaha parts (older Virago's seem to be numerous around the junkyards here) or figure out the trigger method and buy a latching relay seperately.

As to the way components are switched, I have found it is very popular to run the ground side of components through a switch, as opposed to the hot side on modern vehicles (and Japanese for a long long time).

Don't know the philosophy, but I remember the first time it happened to me: early 80's and I pinched the horn ground wire when I turned the front wheel. Probably makes the wiring easier in the long run. My 98 Suzuki Tracker is the same way (had an issue with wiring a cruise control into a hot wire that turned out to be the daytime running-lights-for-the-impaired: I was on the ground side for the defeat relay and the cruise wouldn't work at night (ground was grounded -- parallel circuit with a ground =0v!).

To refresh concepts (more than you want to know): two theories of electrical wiring exist for DC. One says that power eminants(sp?) from + to -. The other says that only electrons move (versus protons) and therefore it actually moves from - to +. That's why some old Ford's , etc, use positive ground.

That's also why you will almost always find (in a non-leaking battery) the negative terminal is dirtier (if not corroded, look for the carboned/oxidized lead) than the positive terminal.

Enjoy!