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Old 12-19-2005   #1 (permalink)
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i realize this is a tired subject on the forums, but my searches have yielded inconclusive results, so i'm bringing it up again.

1. battery tender- which model do people (in the states) use? where can i get an adaptor so i can plug it into the accessory jack?

2. to start or not to start- i've read posts where people say "start it every week or so, let it warm up" but i've also read "DON'T start it ever, because that's what introduces condensation and then rust".

i'm done riding for the winter, and i had been starting the bike every week or so to keep the battery charged, but after a particularly cold fortnight with no start, it seems the battery's drained. i thought i might get a battery tender so i could start it again, but now i'm thinking i probably ruined the battery, so why bother- i'll just get a new one in the spring and not trouble myself by running an extension cord to the shed. maybe the bike will be better off if it isn't started? i didn't bother removing the spark plugs and oiling the cylinders.

thoughts?
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Old 12-19-2005   #2 (permalink)
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I would agree that it probably does more harm than good to run it- it will not get hot enough to burn off condensation in the motor, and when it cools down you will introduce more.

My Triumph stays in the garage for about 3 months over the winter. All I do is use a normal battery charger set to trickle once every couple of weeks or so. I also turn the fuel tap on for a few seconds to make sure the carbs don't dry out. I suppose it would probably be easier to drain the carbs but I can usually get a couple of good rides in over winter.

You should be able to recharge your battery, it's worth a shot anyway.
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Old 12-19-2005   #3 (permalink)
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Well, I don't think just starting the bike and letting it run allows the battery to really charge. My friend who has a TT600 was doing that and his battery still died. My theory is that you don't get the rpm's up for the battery to get fully charged. My FZR did the same thing.
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Old 12-19-2005   #4 (permalink)
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Get yourself a Beltran Battery Tender Plus, remove your battery and put it in the cellar and hook it up. before you remove the battery, fill your tank with fuel, add the correct amount of Stabil, run for 5 minutes to get it into the injectors. Then get the tires off the ground with front and rear stands to prevent flat spots. Also, and this is important if you have mice. Get boxes of De Con and put them in your storage area, and redeploy every couple of weeks to keep the little batstards from eating your wiring. Cover bike and your set until spring!
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Old 12-19-2005   #5 (permalink)
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Also don't forget if you take your battery out. DO NOT set it on concrete. That kills the battery. Keep it on a shelf somewhere
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Old 12-20-2005   #6 (permalink)
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very helpful tips. muchas gracias.

now, if i could just figure out how to remove the battery...
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Old 12-20-2005   #7 (permalink)
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On 2005-12-19 17:28, TechmanBD wrote:
... DO NOT set it on concrete. That kills the battery...
Nah. That's a suburban myth.
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Old 12-20-2005   #8 (permalink)
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The old lead Acid batteries, it was true about. The newer ones not the case.
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Old 12-21-2005   #9 (permalink)
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>>> DO NOT set it on concrete. That kills the battery.

>> Nah. That's a suburban myth.

> The old lead Acid batteries, it was true about.


Yeah, they didn't have the special additive that repels the evil battery-discharging pixies that live in concrete.
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Old 12-21-2005   #10 (permalink)
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As to the original question, I've had good results with the Yuasa SmartShot tender, and with the models sold under the Harley name at HD dealers.

On another matter...if you didn't remove plugs and oil the cylinders before layup, I don't know that running the engine once in a while will really be any worse than letting it sit in that state all winter. Would be interested in thoughts on that. (I definitely wouldn't count on running a few minutes every few weeks to keep the battery up, though.)

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