Triumphrat

SWare

Time to check, grease, adjust the headstock bearings on my t-bird. Both books indicate the use of Triumph's tool #3881040. I haven't checked the price for that tool yet but has anyone done this with any other commonly available tools? The Haynes did mention the tool was needed if you adjust the bearings with the top clamp in place. Would you want to adjust the bearings that way?

Anyway, I've never done this myself so your thoughts are appreciated.

stan

[ This message was edited by: SWare on 2005-12-17 12:34 ]

Slinky

There should be no need for any special tools, even with the top clamp in place ( but, you will have to take the top clamp off to grease the bearings anyway..)

All you have is two thin nuts, they are notched for a C spanner but you can tap them around with a screwdriver blade and a mallet.

The bottom adjuster nut needs to be little more than finger tight, just enough to eliminate any play. The top lock nut just snugs down onto the bottom one to stop it moving.

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MickMaguire

the tools are thin wrenches with a square drive hole (to torque the nuts up.

I disagree with slinky, the tools are releatively cheap and allow you to do the job correctly (correct torque and with the top yoke in place) and without damage to the nuts (or any other part of the bike). Doing the job with the top yoke in place will better allow you to feel for play in the bearings in my experience.

[ This message was edited by: MickMaguire on 2005-12-19 08:52 ]

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nortoncharlie

This should probably go into the classified section, but I recently had a bunch of wrenches similar to the 3880140 Triumph wrench laser cut from 4130 plate. I bought one from the dealer for my Tiger thinking it would be a pair at more that $20.00, but it was only one piece. The wrenches are essencially the same thing, 38.5 mm with a 3/8 square cutout so you can put a torque wrench on it.

If you are interested email me, I am selling them for $9.00 each and $5.00 for shipping (for either one or 2) . I know the Tiger requires 2 wrenches and my RS only needs one to do the job. The Tiger has a double jam nut setup and the RS only has the single nut under the tripple tree. NOt sure about your T-bird.

[ This message was edited by: nortoncharlie on 2005-12-19 16:42 ]

SWare

I tend to agree with Mick.
I'm just such a cheap B@stard (poor really) that I thought I would ask about alternatives before spending the money.

Nortoncharlie, I sent you an email.

Stan

Stlakid

Heed this quote!! This man knows what he's talking about.

Center nut torque 65nm! (48ft lbs)

The lock nut yes, but not the adjusting nut!! The shop manual for the Sprint recommends 32nm(24ft lbs) for the adjusting nut. This is way to tight in my opinion and probably of many owners that have experienced 'Shagged' top bearings! Most destroyed at the factory or on normal service by the Triumph dealer! The top bearing used by Triumph on the Sprint, RS, S3 and Daytona (I don't know what configuration other models use, but I bet they don't change) is NOT designed for a side load configuration....and if you tighten the adjusting nut any more than finger tight, that is exactly what you are doing...side loading the top bearing! The lower bearing is the more robust Timken Tapered roller bearing.

Here's how I do it so as to NOT destroy the top bearing. A lot of these bearings are destroyed before you even take delivery at the factory!

Put bike on center stand if you have one. Try to take the weight off the front wheel. (It's not absolutely necessary, but it make it easier to feel things.) Remove the top nut.(lock nut) loosen pinch bolts on top triple tree and remove. Take the adjusting nut and back it off a few turns. This is a good time to work some grease into the 'Bottom' bearing since it has no seal and most likely has never been lubed since new anyway. Remove the top bearing and spin it to see if it runs smooth with no nicks, if so replace it on the bike. Tighten the lock nut with a socket 'In Your Hand Only'. Do NOT use a wrench on it. Snug it down as tight as you can by hand. Now work the steering back and forth a few time to distribute the grease you packed into the lower bearing. Loosen the nut and re-tighten it with the socket. Again, 'BY HAND ONLY'! Snug it down as much as you can with the socket in your hand and leave it at that. Replace top yoke and replace the lock nut. Tighten the lock nut but 'Be sure the lower adjusting nut is not tightened more in the process'. Re-tighten pinch bolts.

If you do it this way you will never damage your steering yoke bearings. If you do need a new bearing I would recommend an 'Annular Contact bearing instead of the factory standard bearing. It's a drop in replacement and Annular Contact bearings are designed for radial and side loading so even if you get them a bit to tight they won't self destruct. There is also a Tapered Roller bearing that will fit, but it is actually just a little wider than the stock unit, but it will fit just the same.


Added if interested........

The Annular Contact bearing is #7205 and is a 'Drop in' replacement. (be sure to not get it up-side down though)

Tapered Roller bearing #30205 This bearing is 1.25mm(.049") wider than a stock bearing but works fine just the same.

If you guys need any of the bearings listed I have a site(somewhere) that has all three in stock for great prices.

Stock bearings------------$3.00ea.
Annular Contact----------$25.00 a pair (share with someone)
Tapered Roller------------$10.00ea.


[ This message was edited by: Stlakid on 2005-12-21 04:28 ]

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SWare

I appreciate the advice.
Since I will have everything apart to grease and check the bearings sounds like I may be able to get by without the wrenches this time using stlakid's technique. I will probably still buy a couple from Nortoncharlie because they look good and the price is right. That will allow me to adjust as needed later with everything assembled.

stan

nortoncharlie

I hope I didn't destroy the top bearing on my RS, I had to replace the lower tripple tree, so I greased up the lower bearing, put it together then torqued the top adjsuter nut moved it back and forth a bit to work the grease around then backed of the adjuster till I got a little play then set it for zero play, zero preload then torqued up the nut on top of the tripple tree. All seems good, but I haven't had a chance to ride the bike yet. I think the initial torque setting is to insure the bearings and races are fully seated and hopefully isn't tight enough to damage the bearings.

I am waiting for the ice to melt so I can ride my RS, I bought it wrecked and have it all together (except a couple body panels getting painted) but it snowed before getting a chance to take it out.

Stlakid

If they are thin enough to access the adjusting nut while the top triple clamp is in place they would be VERY helpful in making sure the adjusting nut does not preload the bearings while you were tightening the lock nut down.

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nortoncharlie

That is the game plan, You need to loosen the pinch bolts on the upper tripple tree (allow it to float up and down) , make the adjustment then hold in place and torque the top nut. On the Tiger you need 2 wrenches and at least one even if you pull the upper tripple tree. the Tiger has the adjusting nut and a thin jam nut under the tripple tree. With that you need to seperate the jam nut and adjuster, make the adjustment then use the 3/8 square in the wrench to torque the jam nut to the adjuster.

I am not sure what different models require, I've only had the Tiger and the RS apart. And only have a manual for the Tiger.