Triumphrat

06-14-2005

ok - i'm a girl & will confess upfront: i'm a mechanical idiot...

but i just 'inherited' my first bike and want to have SOME clue what to do with it (other than ride - have got that part sussed

major issues:

seems to rev real low. uh, by this i mean it wants to stall...even if in gear with the clutch totally engaged. (example: while in 1st, waiting for traffic light to change). if i give it some throttle while idling, is ok. if i just sit, chances are, it'll stall. kickstarting in city traffic - BAD! especially if you're a blonde

at some point, it'll stop leaking oil. when this happens -- where do i replace it & what with? is not a bad leak, but it's there.

there's a red switch with 2 black buttons next to the the throttle that does nothing. should i really care if it doesn't work?

there's a switch for indicators but no lights. is it a huge deal to get my blinkers back??

needs new tires & my local triumph dealer only caters to 1980+ models...gave me no love. any suggestions on tires to hunt for? currently an odd mix of continental & dunlop, circa the late 80s. definitely beat.

and finally >>> dumb Q: is it better/ok to use a particular octane fuel? my 4runner doesn't care if i use 89 or 91 grade but...does an old triupmh?

thanks for all & any help!!!!!!!

cheers

Tumbleweed · 06-14-2005

Congrats on a sweet bike obwat!

You should post this in the Classic/Vintage/Veteran forum, there's a LOT of knowledge and how-to's in there.

From what I understand from your questions, I'm sure there are mostly simple DIY-solutions to all of them.

T'Weed

tridentt150v · 06-14-2005

You've probably done as tumbelweed said, posted in the pre hinkley section and got heaps of replies but:

Unless you are only going to be a second or so, always select neutral at traffic lights. The clutch on twins tends to slowly 'load' up ie drag the longer you wait, also as the bike gets hot sitting there idling. The trick is to select neutral as you come to the lights, most pre '80 twins [not all, but they are a rarity] will not select neutral once stopped and idling, they will once stalled though [which you don't want to do]. So click into neutral as you come to a stop but are still rolling.

It depends on whether it is gearbox or engine oil. Gearbox oil smells very pungent compared to engine oil. Gearbox oil filler is in the side of the gearbox cover on the right=timing side of the bike near the kickstarter. It is a 1" alloy bung with a slot in it. Engine oil can be replaced immediately between where the tank meets the seat. It goes into the frame. That is why your bike is called an oil in frame OIF bike. Use 80w/90 for the gearbox and a good quality 15w/50 for the engine. The engine oil can be changed to a 10w/40 during winter.

I think the large centre switches {changed mine around years ago so its not the same] are the high and low beam or blinkers. The four black buttons are kill, horn, flasher and a spare for electric start. All bikes had the switch, not all bikes had the electric start fitted, it was an option. Most riders actually shunned the es like the plague, it was too untraditional. I even modded mine and removed the es altogether. I sold my T160 and bought a T150 cos I hated the es on the T160 trident.

Blinkers are easy to re-fit, the wires are usually not removed. But they will be a bit $$$$$ for genuine or repro's. See if you can 'inherit' the blinkers in a bucket as well.

Avon used to make good tyres for the Bonnie. Gen II avon roadrunners, or speedmasters, but I'm afraid you'll have to shop around.

Use ONLY 96 or better octane, and a good upper cylinder additive like flashlube or Moreys. This is because the combustion chamber on these bikes was designed for leaded super. They can ping/pink/rattle under load with low octane and no upper lubricant. You add the flashlube to your fuel. These type of products are usually available at auto stores and some servo's/gas stations.

If you don't know your bike, or how to look after it [if you are a newb] but are willing to learn, I'd strongly suggest you buy a bike manual and find a coach. A coach is somebody that lives nearby and is into british bikes. Failing this a bike club that caters for british bikes. You will need help. These older bikes need an experienced owner to get the best out of them, everybody starts out a novice [I did], but the rewards are that it is 'built not bought'. I don't want to scare or intimidate, I just don't want to see you be overwhelmed by the bike thru lack of knowledge. A good coach will help you and you will learn at the same time.

Good luck.

[ This message was edited by: tridentt150v on 2005-06-14 17:36 ]

Will · 06-14-2005

Just a word of clarification- New Zealand calculates octane a different way from how it is done here in the US. 92 is the highest rating you can get, but it is OK for nearly every engine.

06-14-2005

grrreat!

thanks for the help.

think i've got it...though a new Q has now been raised>>>>

i was under the impression that i should remain in 1st when idling at a light/stop sign ?? you're right - i can easily get into N after i've stalled. once stopped, is real tough. the rest of the time, is real, uhm, finicky.....

tridentt150v · 06-15-2005

Ok, use the best octane that is normally available.

And great southern land is not new zealand!!

I wouldn't leave it in gear all the time, now and then is OK, the shorter the stay the better. It's not a hard and fast rule, more a recommendation.

Doc_Hollywood · 08-10-2005

I knew of a shop there that would take good care of you, and may even be willing to give you an education on what is going on with the machine. let me see what I can find.

A Clymer manual on the bike will be a world of help, and you have the net to answer those puzzling things that don't make sense in the manuals.

The hint at clutches loading up is very right, and while not a rule, it is a good idea to hit neutral when possible.

Old bikes leak oil till you learn how to fix that problem. Just keep a good eye on it.

I own/have owned several older Brits over the years, and I never ran anything but 87 octane in mine with no porblems. Unless you got a super high compression engine it shoudl be fine. If you can kick it over without having your ankle scream at you then you don't have the hi comp engine.

if you get tired of all this and choose to buy a newer bike you can sell me the one you have (he he he) and look around.

I assure you that when you see how simple most things are on yours you will be wondering why the ladies don't do it themselves.

Doc