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First triumph resto

13K views 122 replies 16 participants last post by  jonkster 
#1 ·
So I have been rebuilding vintage Hondas for years... maybe 50 bikes under my belt. Came across this one owner triumph that I could not resist. Numbers match. Its mostly there. Engine kicks over with good compression. Needs some work nevertheless. Right off the bat I see the forks need rebuilding, The handle bars wiggle on their mounts. Needs a chain cover? I need to rebuild the carbs. Chrome is kinda rough. The tires are old. Seat repaired.... thats the beginning.


My plan is to get it on the lift. Try to get it running and once running take it apart and get it road worthy. I like by bikes to look their age so I try to stay as stock as possible. Tank will need 2-tone paint.

Like I said, I know Honda's and where to get parts, but never built out a Triumph. Any leads to good part suppliers would be appreciated. Any other tips, hints or suggestions are also appreciated. I am looking to get back to stock so please point out what is non-stock for the year.
 

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#5 · (Edited)
Wow, 50 bikes?!? You'll have no problem with your Triumph as you definitely speak the language of motorcycles.

Have a look at Brit Cycle (http://www.britcycle.com). They have a warehouse in Maine and are really helpful guys. I got a call from Mark from Brit at 8:30 the other night and we chatted for half an hour about parts and processes. You can get a parts fiche from them and order all the little bits and pieces you need.

Now, chrome can be brought back to life using fine steel wool or aluminum foil + patience. All of my chrome was rough with surface rust throughout. I was able to bring it back to life with steel wool and loads of time, followed by buffing with Mothers chrome polish. I used Mothers aluminum polish for the aluminum bits.

Be careful about blasting an oil in frame triumph. Read up on my restoration for context.
 
#7 · (Edited)
You have a 74 Bonneville 750 manufactured in June of 74.
Fist thing you need are the factory parts and repair manuals, they go a long way in helping you in a restoration on these. If you build 50 other bikes you will find these Triumphs a piece of cake to work on. Every part is available at somewhat reasonable prices.Your bike looks like it is mostly stock and original.

Download manuals here:

Repair manual:

http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/1970s/73-78-Triumph-Bonneville-Tiger-Workshop-Manual.pdf



Parts manual for 73 model:

http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Parts/1970s/1973-750-PartsManualTriumph.pdf


I use the Bonneville Shop quite a bit for part sourcing. Their pricing is usually lower than anywhere else, free shipping, and only a couple of days for delivery. Very knowledgable help also.
http://thebonnevilleshop.com
 
#9 · (Edited)
Hi Gary,

74 Bonneville 750
:thumb

manufactured in June of 74.
:) Nope. June 1973. '74 season/model year numbers started at GJ55101.

So I have been rebuilding vintage Hondas for years
you will find these Triumphs a piece of cake to work on.
No, you won't. Compared to (most) parts for vintage Hondas, many more parts for old Triumphs are sh1t, especially if you pick the wrong dealer. :( If in doubt, ask first, someone should be come up with the correct answer. Plan for anything to take longer than on a Honda, be pleasantly surprised when it doesn't. :D

BritBike forum homepage lists probably most of the good US Meriden Triumph parts dealers, plus some other useful specialists elsewhere in the world. This Forum is also lucky that the John Healy - owner of US Meriden Triumph parts wholesaler Coventry Spares - contributes (as "johntioc"); John is also BritBike Triumph Board moderator.

The rubber pad on the tank is coming off. Not sure what it is.
More likely a skid pad.
Nope. It covers the nut on the bolt that secures the tank to the frame.

pos ground? seems backwards.
Depends how your electrics head works. Direct Current travels the same way 'round anything - Triumphs and Hondas. Negative to positive. Kinda makes Hondas "seem backwards"? :D

You should also find many Red-insulated wires in the harness, not shown in most (all?) wiring diagrams. These are the return wires for almost every electrical component (turn signals excepted :rolleyes:) to battery +ve. Long-term wa-aa-ay more reliable than Hondas using the frame and other cycle parts. :)

Hth.

Regards,
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the comments guys. The rubber pad on the tank is coming off. Not sure what it is. Not soft enough for a nut pad. More likely a skid pad.

The chrome on the bike is not just rusty but it is cracked a little. The wheels are the worse. I am anxious to start. I am just finishing this Honda cb750F today. Its coming off the rack and I will be putting the triumph up next.

Since the engine turns over I usually start with the carbs. I shouldn't have any problems because I am used to rebuilding the Honda/4 carb racks. Gotta get a battery...pos ground? seems backwards. Then I will get the electric working. I will keep you posted.

Thanks
again
Gary
 

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#10 ·
Welcome to the forum!

Judging by the CB750, you should get along fine.

You have already indicated a healthy understanding by wanting to do the "make-run" before tearing the bike apart. Being a one-owner bike, the previous owner should be able to relate the maintenance and most recent running history; as long as it had reasonable servicing, and hasn't sat more than a couple of years, it'll be fine.

Take lots of progress photos in the best light possible, and keep us updated. Thanx for starting a project thread!
 
#11 ·
Hi Gary,

looking to get back to stock so please point out what is non-stock for the year.
I'm not well-up on the finer details of oif twins but I see mufflers, seat, rear turn signal stems and (don't see) left-hand sidepanel badge. In theory, the right-hand sidepanel badge is the wrong colours - '74 is Gold on Black, Silver on Red is '73 - but might be original as a consequence of the bike being built early in the "season", Meriden management was always keen to use up overstock parts.

When overhauling the brakes, AP Lockheed (the brakes' maker) advised that the rubber hoses should be replaced no later than ten years old. If you can't ascertain how old the ones on the bike are, change them as they're known to start delaminating internally, turning them into one-way valves ... :bluduh You might then encounter a problem finding good new replacements; I'm not sure that AP still make them (certainly they don't make the master cylinders, although pattern ones are available); when you reach that stage, you might want to consider black-plastic-covered braided hose.

In addition, I'd advise:-

. Having any chrome on the discs ground off; stopping in the wet especially with patchy disc chrome is well up to 1970's Honda standards. :bluduh

. Replacement brake pads from a Mini Cooper parts supplier - the basic caliper is front offside Mini Cooper pre-S (1062 aka 1100 engine) and you'll get two pairs of pads for your money. :thumb

. Especially if the bike's a keeper, fitting a '76-on fender and mounting; what's stock on your bike is rubbish at keeping the sliders parallel with a decent front brake; the later fender mounting is bolt-on to the sliders.

. '78-on fork seals. One nice thing about Triumphs is how many parts are backwards-compatible. :thumb In addition to the parts book link Marc posted, online index of parts books.

. Standard oil 'filtration' on these bikes is a laughably-antediluvian collection of reject tea strainers, plus chucking away otherwise-perfectly-good oil every 1500 miles. :rolleyes: Thankfully, many people have spent time improving this, so either a "Charlie's filter" in the bottom of the frame spine tube oil reservoir or another aftermarket filter in the return line between engine and frame spine tube.

The "Charlie's filter" was named after a Bristol, England Triumph dealer (called "Charlie's" :)) who came up with a proper micropore filter that bolted into the bottom of the frame spine oil reservoir in place of the standard tea strainer Meriden fitted there.

The "filter in the return line" will be either a purpose-made mount with a car-type spin-on one or the element from the Triumph/BSA triple in a specially-made container/mounting.

Hth.

Regards,
 
#13 ·
Wow, thanks for all the replies. I never had a post go 2 pages before.
I know I will need all disposables: pads, fork seals, handle bar bushings, break lines etc. The bike is on the rack and ready to evaluate. Plan to get a battery tomorrow and clean the carbs. HAve family stuff to do this weekend but I am anxious to get started. gonna get some new plugs tomorrow. any recommendations?
 
#16 ·
Ok thanks, that is the plug that is currently in the bike. i will get the same to replace.

I took a couple hours to get to know the bike. I took off the tank, side covers and carbs. i cleaned the carbs but I will need new o rings. Also new gas line. By the way, what size fuel line do I need?

I bought a new battery and I am charging it now. If I understand the electrics, I shouldnt need the battery to start the bike, right?

I just want to make sure the bike starts and then I will strip it down and build it up. I also need to do an oil change... but Its a little more complicated than my Honda CB's.

Oh and of course I need all new tools... my metrics dont fit!
Here is my helper:
 

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#23 · (Edited)
Cleaned the carbs. They are much simpler than the honda/4 rack. These carbs have no choke mechanism. there is a slot for a slide, but no parts or air lever. I suspect the bike will work without it. The original owner used the bike quite a lot. What is a good place to start in turning out the air mixture screw. I found 2 1/2 turns somewhere in the forum.???

So i spent a few hours trying to hunt down the o-ring for the carb to manifold.3 hardware stores and 5 auto stores later I had nothing. Then i decided to stop at Fred's. This is a old cycle shop that is well past its heyday. Touts himself as a yamaha dealer, but hasnt sold a bike in 10 years. Anyways I stopped in just to see if he could match the o-ring. Turns out he was also a Triumph dealer in the 60-70's. He pulled out the michrofiche (yes not a computer) and found the 0-rings. He seems to still have quite a few OEM parts left over. Maybe i found a honey hole!

I also received new fork seals and boots in the mail yesterday.

Still plan to get this thing started before I do much else. Gonna let it run a little and check the compression to see if I have to open the engine.

Also gotta figure out how to change the oils. Much easier on a Honda. I havent even found the oil filter yet!

Any preference for Gasket set makers?
 
#24 ·
1 1/2 turns is the normal initial setting -- there is no factory fitted filter in the general sense of the term - (unless the PO fitted an aftermarket one) - remove the square plate at the bottom of the main oil tube ( rear of engine underneath) four nuts hold it in place - pull the rubber oil pipe attatched to it first to drain the oil - when you remove the plate the factory "filter" is a top hat shaped mesh screen - if yo see a paper filter then you have an after market fitment generally known as a "Charlies" filter --- however there are oil filter kits that use a screw on disposable filter in the return oil line -- if you had one of those you would have seen it as it normally easily found
 
#28 ·
Hi,

I assume thee is a gasket associated with the oil drain plate?
'74 T140V parts book, p42/43 ... ;)

gasket set
Any brand recommended?
Major ones - barrel base, head, head-to-rocker-box - are available in copper, which can be annealed and reused. Certainly major ones, apart from the head gasket, are available in CovSeal - developed and supplied to dealers by "johntioc's" Coventry Spares. Not sure if that'll apply to the frame "Sump plate" one. If you have to use the standard card/paper one, grease it on both sides before fitting and it'll peel off without sticking next time.

Hth.

Regards,
 
#29 ·
If you fit an aftermarket oil filter you won't have to drop the sump plate very often. The factory filter system is totally archaic. Fitting an aftermarket filter is one of the best thing you can do for engine longevity.
 
#31 ·
Yes it lives!.
Put some fresh gas in and put back on air filters. 2 kicks and it started right up. I only let it run a few seconds. I never changed the oil and I am not sure its any good. Now that I know that it runs I am going to get the bike functional: fix brakes, fix fork seals, change oil, tune carbs and set timing, needs mufflers. (any suggestions?)

I already have all the electric working. will also need new tires.
 
#33 ·
Here's one from MAP cycle on my t140e. This type uses a Trident oil filter. One other type is commonly called the Norton type and uses a spin on filter. The other type is commonly called the Charlies type and fits up inside the oil supply frame tube.
 
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