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Caulky's 71 BSA A65 project

75K views 319 replies 21 participants last post by  Caulky 
#1 ·
Hopefully next wednesday a 1971 Beesa A65 lightning (sorry) will be delivered for restoration.
Thinking of making it into a 60`s style caff racer.:p
Getting tired of constant hassle with the cub.
What a PITA that is.
And its cold, damp, dark and dank.
 
#2 ·
Quit your damn whinin'. We had over an inch of snow on the ground the last two days and today it is going to be constant rain with gray skies. It's the kind of weather that sends you into the garage with a garden hose.

Sorry to hear the Cub is getting to you. Just think of each issue as another challenge. Think how good you'll feel when you get it all done. It won't have been just a quick paint job and rebuild. It's kinda like training a wolf to be your pet. You're gonna get bit a lot in the process.

BSA sounds like a fun project. '71 has the breadbox tank, yes? With the right paintjob, that is a gorgeous tank. My friend has one he won't part with for a project he'll probably never complete. It is painted orange and it looks great in a bright solid color like that.

Did the '71 BSA frame have the same cracking issue that the Triumph frame had? My guess would be yes, but you never know.

Two projects in your shed now. Do you plan to work by suspending youself off the rafters?

Looking forward to it. But also looking forward to seeing the Cub finished.

regards,
Rob
 
#4 · (Edited)
I`ve a feeling the bike is a USA import. No papers.
I`ve been watching ebay for ages, almost went for a sunbeam S7 basket-case, but chickened out.
Dont think I`d ever buy a bike in bits ever again.
When It arrives I will post some decent pictures.
But for now a poor enlargement of a teeny pic.

 
#5 ·
Well, if you take it a custom cafe route, you have some bits you can sell, like those aluminum air filt covers that can help you recover some of your costs. I'll bet that rear rail fetches a decent price on fleabay. If it would fit a T140V, I'd be interested. But suspect shipping from the IoW would be cost prohibitive.

Tank looks straight. Looks more like it was abandoned than abused.

regards,
Rob
 
#10 · (Edited)
Its arrived.
Rather rustier than the first picture below shows.
But it is quite exciting, I`ve taken a few bits off for homework cleaning.
Its not bad really, like a weird bonnie.
Spares and workshop manuals ordered.
Those handlebars are awful, I think I will buy Ace bars?







 
#14 · (Edited)
Not sure updating this is legal on a Triumph forum, but I guess if I get me wrists slapped, I`ll find somewhere else. :eek:

I`ve started to disassemble the easy bits, no room in my workshop unless I get shot of the Bonnie or cub (PITA).

I`ve had both clocks refurbished by `SpeedoRepairs` in Aldershot.



The tank and panels have been blasted and etch-primed where neccessary.

First coats of gold, before the candy red.



The tank badges have been re-plated.

After ordering lots of innards, the carbs are ok.




The levers came up quite well, after an evenings cleaning.



The central tank strip needs a little more work, but most of the dull plating is gone.
When I began to clean/polish it, a nice shiny bit appeared.
So I decided to do all of it, plus there were lots of scratches.



I`ve ordered a new headlamp shell with a hole for an ammeter.
TMS have informed me that there will be some mounting problems.
Also a couple of throttle cables and an ignition switch.
More later, perhaps ;)
 
#16 ·
Well Brian, it depends where and how grotty the part is.
For instance, the levers were like top one in the picture originally.
First of all I spread Autosol thinly over it.
Then I use a dremel-type tool with a rubber circular attachment.
You only get one or two in the case with the rotary tool.
So I bought a pack of 10 of them.

This gets rid of the oxidation, but leaves streaky marks
More Autosol and green scotch-brite to smooth it.
There`s 3 grades of this finishing stuff.
Red is coarse, green is medium and grey is fine.

If the green leaves scratches, use the fine grey stuff. (with Autosol.)
When its suitable for polishing, I generally use a cloth first with a good covering of Autosol, giving it a good hard rub :eek:

Then the rotary tool with a small buffer tool and autosol.
To finish, a soft polishing cloth (duster).

If a part is very scratched I`d start with about 800 grit wet & dry.
Then 1500 grit and continue as above.

With covers I buff with a drill fitted with 3 inch buffer tool.

This is a dirty job, ally is black. :D
 
#22 · (Edited)
Front wheel and forks.
When trying to remove the front-brake cable, it was siezed in the cable and in both arm collets.
Sawed off!
This leaves a piece of cable stuck in the far lever.



I wiil have to remove the brake anchor plate to fix this.



The outer members are off and the dampers for inspection/refurbishment.
But I need something to completely knock-out the stanchions.
(very few tools in the lock-up)



43 years of neglect and cast in sand.



A little better.

 
#25 · (Edited)
Forks dismantled, awaiting new stanchions, seals, bearings, etc.
The top nut on the R/H leg was on cross-threaded :eek:



Decided to have a go at painting the mudguards, flattened the rusty chrome and roughed up the rest a bit.
High-build primer first (left in top pic)
Then grey, to wet sand tomorrow.




Presumably this `thing` is an oil cooler :confused:

 
#29 ·
I was wondering about them also.
This bike has been ridden in a sandy environment.
The hole in the tube on the lower yoke was choked with sand.
Also the folds on the edges of the front mudguard were full of it.
Could be in lots of other places too? :rolleyes:

When the forks were drained, very little came from the left leg and it was thick yukky stuff.
The right leg to ages (days) to drain, not so thick as the left.
Even then, after removing the lower outer, fluid poured out.
Hence the puddle covered with sand.
 
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