Triumphrat

Railmonkey · 10-29-2012, 10:16 AM

Thought the HTS-2000 aluminium brazing rods would let me fix my crankcase hole. I'm no expert which may be the first problem, but there is no way to get the casing hot enought to use this stuff - even with mapp yellow cans. Instructions say to try propane but if I have to do that I might as well farm it out for tig welding. Which is what I am doing. I'm thinking of sending the engine out for rebuild as I have enough small issues in the teardown that make it difficult for me to to consider doing myself. I see the challenge and fun factor in doing it myself but I am balancing that with the prospect of doing it and having a failure on startup and doing all over again! I have the enqine 99% tore down, can't get the main nut of the gearshaft but I guess if I keep at it, It'll come off. Same with the cams, they won't come off, left hand thread and all and they won't budge. Also main bearing does not pop out like Hughie Hancock says it should after heating - I'll try the bucket of boiling water next. Anyone of these four things has stopped the forward progress and I am undecided - other factor is a rebuild is expensive when farmed out. But i am farming out the head/valve job anyway... decisions, decisions...

Railmonkey · 11-15-2012, 11:07 AM

Here's my latest. I'm finishing up electrical wiring and then putting wheels and forks in place. Decided to do all the bling first and work on the engine over the winter

Railmonkey · 11-20-2012, 05:01 PM

well finally got off the main bearing, had to cut with a dremel, heat and use a chisel to pop it out, about 4 days of dickering about. Finally got the cam gear nuts off, not so bad, about three days, tight as a ducks ar.e. Now need the cam gear puller tool, waiting by the mailbox for the tool to arrive. Forgot to mention I also got off the main sprocket. Looks like it had red loctite on it hence another 4 days of trying to hold in a vice and wrench away on it. Feels good when you finally get these things off after so many days of frustration.

Meanwhile sent the heads out for a valve job, cylinders for a rebore and new pistons etc. I think the valves I could have done myself but the seats look like they may need cutting and I had to send out for rebore anyway.

Lots of patience needed on this project, I'm either waiting for parts or for service. Did find a nice NOS headlight assembly in UK - at least I hope its NOS and not some scam.

Patiently wating for my rear wheel to come back, parts for front fork assembly, tig welding my cases, head work etc. Got bored so did a rough tally of the bill so far! This stuff gets expensive fast.

I had my head and rockers vaporblasted, will send my cases also once repaired but what a diffference. I have a sandblaster but vaporblasting makes them look like new and doesn't cost a lot.

Morris the Cat · 11-20-2012, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Railmonkey

Meanwhile sent the heads out for a valve job

Who do you trust to do the work?

I can see a similar situation in the near future for my bike!

Railmonkey · 12-30-2012, 11:49 AM

Have my head and barrells back. rebored to .020 with new pistons rings etc.., Next week I am sending out the recently welded casing out for vapor blasting. That is what was done to the rocker covers and they come out very nice

Railmonkey · 12-30-2012, 11:54 AM

Couple of questions on the frame assembly - one is the front brake switch, I can't find how this thing gets installed, does it break apart? I can't see the brake cable fitting through it with the end connectors? And where does it sit when installed?

And on the Fork assembly, finally got everything together and picked up some used lowers I am repainting. I put the fork stanchions in and tapped up as far as they would go, I then put the top nut in and tightened up. The stanchions are about an 1/8 or so from the top, they look almost equal, both sides down a bit. Is this correct or should the stanchion be flush with the top yoke?

GrandPaulZ · 12-31-2012, 05:30 PM

I don't know if that brake light switch opens to install it, I've always seen them installed on the cable from the factory.

Railmonkey · 01-08-2013, 04:21 PM

Here I am now:

I had a hell of a time getting the forks together, one of the fender mounting bolts had created a bump in the lower member. A socket was the perfect size to beat in there to round out but took me two days to get the socket back out! Should have thought thru a bit more. Also bought a brake cylinder hone to run through the lowers to clean them up and it worked great. Have to get the lower repainted after beating on it for two days.

Front fender I figured had been chopped at one point, its a bit short so have to get that redone also. All in all I'm glad to reach this point of having a rolling chassis, all wiring is done, all paint and bits. Next challenge is the engine - I had the crankcase welded where the chain came thru and broke a chunk off, and am having the cases vapor blasted. As soon as I get those back I start re-assembly

Railmonkey · 01-25-2013, 01:04 PM

In addition the the head and rocker boxes, vapor blasted above, I also sent out my casings. As described earlier, I had a large hole in my casing due to a loose chain. I had to buy an old casing just to cut off a piece to weld to my casing. A member here on the forum did the weld for me and I'm pleased with the result. I sent everything off to Jeff Gibson at Vaporblasting.biz and this is where I am at.

Next week I can start the engine rebuild finally.

Starting Point, dirty and broken

After Blasting

GrandPaulZ · 01-26-2013, 10:54 AM

Dang, that welder did a good job. My guy would have charged about $125 for that.