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Member's Restoration & Rebuild Projects Details of member's own projects.

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Old 11-11-2012, 02:12 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longlimb View Post

Could the system think I'm not in neutral so therefore not sending current to the coils?
Nice thought but you're assuming a bit more electrical sophistication
on the Triumph engineers behalf. It's a simple (but PITA to replace) plunger switch in the gearbox that makes the light come on.

Actually, you need to be in neutral to start the bike.

Hopefully you have a wiring diagram?

you need to track the power to the coils. Try a long (2mtr) lead with croc clips on it. This will allow you to feed/return from a point and bypass certain wires.
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:44 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longlimb View Post
I noticed the carbs dripping pretty steadily.
So I'm guessing the carbs need rebuilding,


The ignition coils are not getting power.

Now I'm no pro on the meter but I should be getting voltage at the coils correct?......I pulled the leads off each coil and put the meter leads on the leads that hook up to the coil and got nothing.

Unless I'm missing something there is no power getting to them.
If the carbs are dripping fuel,just turn off the fuel.There's enough fuel in there to start.It will probably fix itself if you run it long enough with the fuel turned off.

Lucas Rita is one of the few electronic ignitions that will have power to the coil terminals with the engine not spinning when the ignition is turned on.Boyer,Pazon etc won't get power.
With the +VE meter lead on the +VE coil terminal,touch the -VE meter lead to ground or battery -VE.It should read at least 12V (same as battery voltage).
Wiring to the kill-switch is usually the problem,generally the little pins on the connector that feeds the kill-switch.Check for corrosion at the connector.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:44 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Dave, I do have a wiring diagram but couldn't figure out the coil wiring. I'll give it another shot. Wondered how the neutral light worked. It worked before I took all the wiring apart so I could have not hooked it back up correctly. But after an afternoon of studying the diag and checking everything I think I have it all correct. I might get my electrician friend to double check me.

Pete, u know I was wondering if the cutoff switch might be bad. All the switches on the handlebars are really in rough shape. High beam switch hard to move, blinkers move freely but stiff, cutoff is the same. Moves freely but just feels odd. Moves fluidly without the feeling that it's moving into and out of position of that makes sense.


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Old 11-12-2012, 06:31 AM   #124 (permalink)
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I'll look at mine tonight but I have a 79.

Look inside the headlight and trace the RHS bar wiring. unplug and either clean up, or just add a jumper to bypass the switches.

If you need to take a switch apart, do it INSIDE a big clear polly bag. They can explode random bits of metal and springs all over the garage
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:40 AM   #125 (permalink)
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if you rebuilt the carbs, make sure the bowl gasket isn't interfering with your float movement. It's not uncommon to have to trim the gasket to allow for totally free movement around the float pin. They can pinch and hold the carb down, causing the overflow/leak you describe.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:37 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Hope to not have to rebuild them but got a feeling it's gonna happen.

So big D cycles doesn't have the right handlebar switches (they have been a life saver throughout my rebuild). Anyone have another parts source?


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Old 11-15-2012, 07:31 AM   #127 (permalink)
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http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatal...witchgear.html

or ebay for used (tend to be expensive)
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:34 AM   #128 (permalink)
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Quote:
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http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatal...witchgear.html

or ebay for used (tend to be expensive)
Thanks Dave.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:00 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVE M View Post
I'll look at mine tonight but I have a 79.

Look inside the headlight and trace the RHS bar wiring. unplug and either clean up, or just add a jumper to bypass the switches.

If you need to take a switch apart, do it INSIDE a big clear polly bag. They can explode random bits of metal and springs all over the garage
Well I think the switch was the culprit. I put the meter on one of the coils and slowly moved the kill switch around and eventually found a spot where the meter spiked.

But, what should the coils be getting? I was only getting a bit over 4 volts.
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:16 AM   #130 (permalink)
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4 volts doesn't sound good.
Try this:
disconnect the white/black wire that you'll find on the -VE terminal of one coil.Connect that coil terminal to battery -VE terminal.
Turn on the ignition and measure voltage between the +VE terminal with the white/yellow wire and battery -VE terminal.
It should be close to battery voltage,more than 12V.
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