Triumphrat

bagpiper22 · 12-10-2012, 10:58 PM

Onward and inward! Rods are off. Bearings and crank look good to me, but what do I know. No harsh scoring anyway.

I filed down a drag link tip to get the plug out.

Impact gun on low, and the plug came out, very slowly, but without too much cursing! And I found...(drumroll) Almost nothing!

A few soft oily lumps, but basically nothing. Some PB Blaster and compressed air and it looks like new in there. Air and oil comes out the bearing holes in full force. Getting the tube out is next.

thanks!

bagpiper22 · 12-10-2012, 11:00 PM

I got the trap tube out. I used the ChopCult method: http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3063. Worked like a charm. The 3/8-18 tap cost $10, but it's worth it. There was more gunk inside there, so I'm glad I got it all out. Looks pretty good now!

Now I can start putting this whole thing back together. Hope I remember where the parts go, ha!

I've spent about $100 on special tools to disassemble the engine, so if there's anybody in the SW Connecticut area who needs some help, I hope you'll reach out. I'll be happy to help.

Once the engine is rebuilt, I can tackle the rest of the bike. I haven't done a thing with brakes, front forks, electrical, oil, etc. I figured unless I got the motor moving, no sense having brakes!

Thanks!

bagpiper22 · 12-10-2012, 11:03 PM

Ok, looking good. I had forgotten to mark the position of the gear shifter before pulling off the inner cover, but now the transmission is set. It took a few tries, but I had photos of the engine from before I took it apart, and that helped me get the shifter in the right spot. I was able to go though all the gears. It was hard to move the shifter by hand, but I'm sure once there's oil in there it will move smoothly. The cases are all clean and ready to go back together. I just need to replace a few oil seals.

I'll search the boards for opinions, but what grease is generally used when reassembling? Cam shafts, main bearings, Etc. all need something. Shop manual just says "lubricate" but not sure what's best.

Thanks!

Garioch43 · 12-11-2012, 04:33 AM

Looking good bagpiper!

bagpiper22 · 12-11-2012, 06:49 AM

This comes next!

david_in_ky · 12-11-2012, 10:21 AM

I have alway built engines using STP as initial lube...paint it or drip it on...

mike1976 · 12-11-2012, 07:47 PM

looks like my 76 did a couple of years ago, i hope u have better luck with systems then i. i spent good money on front and rear master cylinder rebuild kits only to have them fail in mid season (leak). i ended up buying new. if when u take them apart they are badly corroded , even if they clean up well u should consider new. same with carbs. i had no problem with rebuilding calipers thought but u may feel better with new. i also was able to clean and repack wheel bearings, but bike only had 8400 org miles. new stuff is expensive but good quality is available. good luck, great project, i will watch with interest. when your done maybe we can meet up on a ride, i am in providence. mike.

bagpiper22 · 12-11-2012, 09:28 PM

Mike-

thanks for the tips. I'll keep them in mind as I start getting into the mechanics.

Do you have pics of your bike? Did you keep it original or go for cafe or bobber style?

Scott

mike1976 · 12-12-2012, 10:10 AM

did not take pictures during resto. going to take some pictures of both bikes ,get them on computer. from there not so sure? looking to make it easy as possible, not a big IT guy. need to figure out how to use them for profile picture you see when you post. bike is 98% stock. sat for at least 15 years, looked bad. lots of oxidation and battery acid fume damage. left motor internals alone. chanced it because of mileage. lucked out, bike runs good. but literaly changed just about everything else on bike. everything works, front,rear stoplight switches,blinkers idiot lights,gauges everything. it now looks like a ridden but maintained 36 yr old bike. did not go for a show resto.a reliable rider it is. just a regular guy with common sense and good mech aptitude. my take is for the t140, 1976 has to be the peak year. get the manual. they are pretty straightforward to work on. real fun to ride! and for me more desirable then a new bike. don't cut corners, it will be worth it in the end. your bike is a nice original find. not that many 76"s around. lots of good people out there selling parts. companies in england are making parts again because of demand. mike

mike1976 · 12-13-2012, 07:40 PM

scott, also i removed the wiring harness and cleaned all connections and dielectric greased them and reinstalled. it's fine, saved $150.just checked it for kinks and continuity, they get brittle over time, and can short. i replaced the points with a pazon electronic unit, and the regulator and rectifier with a tympanum unit.you have to change the coils to 6v. and it's kind of expensive. hopefully you can get yours to run well with the points.oh yeah, the handlebar controls for the lights, horn,, etc can be disassembled and cleaned and should be ok to reuse. as i think of stuff i will post. mike.