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Member's Restoration & Rebuild Projects Details of member's own projects.

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Old 10-25-2012, 11:09 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Well done!

What's next?

regards,
Rob
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
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A rest for my carpal tunnels, tennis elbow and spinning brain, then some fun rides
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Amazing !
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:32 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Thanks!

I just put her over the scales and came up with 286lbs/130kg so it looks like I've shaved 70lbs/32kg from the original T100R dry weight.
No wonder it accelerates like a scalded cat
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:32 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Put around 500 miles on her since the first start... but... they say life wasn't meant to be easy.

So this is how it went.. first few runs, carburetter problems. sorted them eventually (wrong mixture screws fitted)
Then as the miles went by and it was given more revs, two things started to happen, first it would wet sump again and push 200cc of oil from the rockerbox breather into the catch bottle in 3 miles but only at 4500 RPM plus.
I thought the bores were a little too big (7 thou piston clearance) and blowby was causing the wet sumping so I pulled the jugs bought 10 thou over pistons, had the jugs honed to suit the new pistons by a local engineering shop with a honing machine.
I stuck it all back together and tried again.... still wet sumped and then it started to feel a little tight occasionally and then started a strange bell like noise at low revs in high gear.
I had tried a few different things to solve the high RPM wet sumping.. changed the oil pump back to the stock old one, tried a different grade of oil, increased the size of the oil return fitting at the tank...all to no avail.
Then whilst I had the timing cover off I found the crank had 31 thou end float..
So I whipped the engine out at 250 miles and stripped it to the last nut and bolt.

End float, two reasons, first the crank pinion spacer washer was on back to front with the beveled side towards the bearing (the motor came to me that way) and second, seeing as the crank was free to move in the timing side bearing inner race as the washer wasn't clamping it there was then 31 thou end float which needed a 27 thou shim making to reduce it to an acceptable (to me) 4 thou.

Next I inspected the jugs and found the local engineers had done a lousy hone job, tapered at the top and egg timer shaped down the bottom ( clearance was 3.5 thou)
So I dug out my own tools and re-honed them myself, straight and true with 4 thou piston clearance at the bottom of the skirt.

Whilst I was in there I found the some of the valve springs had taken a set and were well under spec (all checked ok before original install ) so I replaced them as well as fitting imp#011 viton O rings to the stems before reassembly.

Also there was a gearbox oil leak into the primary case which was doing the dry belt no good so we modified the gearbox output shaft and fitted a seal housing to seal down to the clutch shaft to stop the leak.
All the Daytona has to stop gear oil leaking between the input and output shafts is a helical groove cut inside the output shaft bronze bush to push oil back to the gearbox (which doesn't work except with really thick oil)

The Morgo oil pump was refitted and then finally we found the culprit causing the high revs wet sumping... the oil scavenge pickup pipe. The bottom end of it was closed up to around 3mm almost like it had been swaged in with a pipe cutter and not reamed out.
Well ream it out I did making it it's full designed size of almost 7mm thereby increasing it's cross section area by almost 4 times.
Works just fine now, the puzzle was though every time I dropped the sump plug to check after a run there was only 100cc of oil left in there.
What was happening was the pump could scavenge just fine at low revs and clear the sump at the end of a run, but at speed just didn't have the capacity to flow the required amount of oil back with that small suction pipe end and pumped oil up and out the exhaust rocker box breather pipe.

Anyway it all went back together along with a brand new pair of 28mm carbies and now at 500 miles the running in oil has been sucked out and replaced with Penrite 20/60 extra 10 full synthetic oil and she is all run in, sweet as a nut, goes like the wind and leaks absolutely no oil (it lives inside the house in a carpeted room)



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Last edited by Old Cafe Racer; 11-30-2012 at 07:29 AM.
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Old 12-01-2012, 05:42 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Wow, it sounds simple now that it's over, but I can only imagine the frustration when it all started to happen after a fresh rebuild.

Nice recovery.

regards,
Rob
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:54 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Yes Rob, the wet sumping nearly defeated me mentally there for a while.
One of those problems that just wouldn't go away whatever I did.
Anyway, what doesn't kill you just makes you stronger... and knowledge is power.

Davy
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:10 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Wow nice job, thanks for sharing.
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:34 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Cafe Racer View Post
Anyway, what doesn't kill you just makes you stronger... and knowledge is power.

Davy
And dat da truth!

But I'll tell you Davy, at least in the picture, that pick up tube looks like it was supposed to be that way. I think I would have struggled with what was causing it for a much longer time, if not forever, to figure out that the tube should have been fully open at the bottom. I'd say that was a pretty savvy catch on your part. Maybe it was just experience doing it's part. Regardless, it was a good catch.

regards,
Rob
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:10 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Your giving me too much credit Rob, I had the crancase of the original bush engine lying around with the pickup pipe still in it so it wasn't rocket science to compare the two and finally go Eureka!

Just still never believed it would finaly fix that problem untill after half a dozed rides.

.
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