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Member's Restoration & Rebuild Projects Details of member's own projects.

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Old 11-04-2012, 10:10 AM   #151 (permalink)
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Swingarm, tapered steereing head bearings and yokes

Thanks Henry.

Yesterday, I installed the swingarm (twice) along with new tapered steering head bearings, the stem and yokes and a new right steering stop.

I had to install the swingarm twice because after I got it in place, I noticed the two threaded holes for the rear fender forward mount and realized that I could not get the bolts started in the holes with the swingarm in place. So, I had to tap it back to provide some clearance and install the two bolts.

I say tap because the fit between my swingarm and the frame ears is TIGHT. In order to install it, I had to put one sideplate in place and thread the spindle bolt thru and start the thread. Then with everything in line, I wedged the other sideplace between the swingarm and the left ear and tapped it into place with a plastic hammer. Once it was started, I backed out the spindle bolt and tapped it into its proper position and reinstalled the bolt. It is such a tight fit that in order to back the swingarm out of the ears, it required tapping it with my dead blow mallet. Sideplates moved with the swingarm so it made putting it back in place once the fender brackets were installed, a snap. I also had to flat file the powder coat from the sides of the pivot tube on the swingarm to provide enough space for the side plates.

Here is the swingarm in place. It's hard to see, but the fender bracket is there. I installed it because I'm using Loctite on everything and wanted to tigten the bolts with the Loctite fresh.



Here's a close-up of that forward bracket. Still hard to see since shiny black paint makes taking good photos a challenge.



I then moved on to the steering head. I installed new tapered bearings in place of the OEM ball bearings. The dust cover which is pressed into the top inner race would not fit over the stem. It was just the edge of the ID that needed swaging in place. I did this with a 1 inch steel tube. But in the process the cage popped off the bearing and rollers went everywhere. Found them all and with the help of a few globs of grease, got the bearing back together. I was a bit disappointed to see CHINA etched in the bearing. Bearings came from John Healy's Coventry Spares. We'll see how they hold up.

Also installed a new right side steering stop since mine was missing when I got the bike. The threads were way too tight and almost appeared to be tapered. Maybe that is intentional so the stop stays in place. I had to work the stop in and out before I had just about full length of thread engagement. I cut a slot in the bottom of the stop to allow me to drive it with a ratchet and a hollow ground straight bit.

Installed the stem and yokes and tightend up the stem nut. Here's a pic of the yokes in place and the new stop. I'll remove the stop later, paint it black and reinstall.



Next steps will be installing the forks and shocks.

I mentioned that I forgot to order new tires. Well, when I went to Bike Bandit to order tires and tubes, I was pleasanty surprise to find they were having an end of season sale and I got my K70's for half price and the total for tires, tubes, rimstrips and shipping was $170.00. Glad I forgot to order them. Tires arrived in 2 days and tubes and rimstrips should be here this week. My plan it to put the bike back on its wheels so I can move it around the shop and then start on finishing the engine assembly.

It will also start to look like a motorcycle again with the wheel, albeit temporarily, in place.

regards,
Rob
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:58 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Installing front forks - Well maybe not

Today the plan was to install the front forks and hopefully the rear shocks. Day did not go as planned.

First, things started out well. I had to machine the special tool required to pull the fork tubes up into the taper in the top yoke. I had made one for my BSA last year and hoped it would fit. Not sure who I thought I was fooling. BSA thread is the same diameter, but a different pitch. BSA is 20 TPI and the Triumph is 26 TPI.

So I chucked up a piece of aluminum in the lathe and machined the piece. Here's the finished product. So far, so good. Although that's without a doubt the worst knurl I've ever put on a piece.



This is the tool assembled prior to using it. The poly cup is to draw the tube up into the yoke and provide clearance for the piece that threads into the tube. I made the cup from poly so it will not mar the paint on the top yoke.



Here is the tool after I'd pulled the tube up into the taper in the top yoke. I'm holding the poly cup up so you can see the piece that threads into the fork tube.



This is how it looks when you are drawing the tube up into the taper with the nut on the bolt. Also note the space between the fork cover and the bottom of the yoke. You can see the fork tube. I suspect this is due to the tapered bearings in the steering head. I'll probaby fit an o-ring in there to take up the space and keep the water and crud out.



So, as you see, I got one tube installed. That's when I noticed a small, but annoying issue. When I ordered my parts, the fork gaitors were from EMGO. I never really thought much about it and figured they'd be as good as any. WRONG! The gaitors have a few issues. First, they are shorter than the OEM gaitors. Second and third are the top and bottom are uniformly molded. The OEM gaitors are not. Top of the gaitor has a rib molded in that engages the spring seat and the bottom of the gaitor has a groove molded in to engage the lip on the dust preventer (seal holder). EMGO gaiters had neither of those features.

Here's a comparison between an EMGO and OEM gaitor.

EMGO gaitor on top. Too short. It would reach, but would not stay in place without band clamps. STRIKE 1.



Here is the top of the OEM gaitor showing the rib that engages the groove in the top spring seat.



Here is the bottom end of the OEM gaitor showing the groove that engages the lip on the slider dust excluder.



Here is the end of the EMGO gaitor. Both ends are identical STRIKE 2 and STRIKE 3. EMGO is OUT!



So, I removed the tube and put the gaitors back in the packaging and will order a correct set tomorrow. I need some other stuff so I'll just order it all now and pay one shipping price.

So, looks like I won't be working on the bike for the next week or so. But that is actually a good thing. I really need to prep my bikes for their winter sleep and have been putting it off to work on the Bonnie. Now I have no excuse. I'll probably paint that fork stop and let it dry for a week.

regards,
Rob
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:12 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Snakeoil View Post
Thanks Henry.
Here's a close-up of that forward bracket. Still hard to see since shiny black paint makes taking good photos a challenge.



regards,
Rob
Rob, I don't see the bottom inflator bracket. You might have to install the swingarm a third time
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:32 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Well Wally, I guess you got me there. There were no inflator brackets, upper or lower on the bike. So, it would appear that they were removed sometime in the past.

I checked the parts book after reading your post and found the inflator brackets. In Triumph's uncanny fashion of not showing all the details, it's just a bracket on a miscellaneous parts diagram and a quantity of 2 on the parts list. I assume the lower goes onto one of those bolts for the fender bracket and the upper goes on one of the fasteners for the battery tray/brackets.

I don't have any photos showing either the inflator in position or the brackets, but will take a closer look at some of the various pics I've collected of '66 T120R bikes.

I don't have the inflator and since the bike will not be a 100 point bike, I guess I'll live without them for now. Although you have given me a few more trinkets to watch out for at swap meets.

Thank for having a keen eye, Wally.

regards,
Rob
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:53 AM   #155 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snakeoil View Post
I checked the parts book after reading your post and found the inflator brackets. In Triumph's uncanny fashion of not showing all the details, it's just a bracket on a miscellaneous parts diagram and a quantity of 2 on the parts list. I assume the lower goes onto one of those bolts for the fender bracket and the upper goes on one of the fasteners for the battery tray/brackets.

Although you have given me a few more trinkets to watch out for at swap meets.

Thank for having a keen eye, Wally.

regards,
Rob
For whatever reasons these became an almost obsession to me. I managed to find both the upper and only because the builder of a bike other than mine had forgotten the lower and refused to go back into it. The lower you can find; the upper is get lucky or make your own.
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:24 AM   #156 (permalink)
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I also just went thru reinstalling swing arm as I forgot the bracket, I don't think a tr6r has an inflator and even if it does I ain't doing it

I am doing forks next also, from one book I have they just how the stanchions being knocked into place with a mallet, I don't think they used a special tool? Can it be done without the puller?
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:38 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally View Post
For whatever reasons these became an almost obsession to me. I managed to find both the upper and only because the builder of a bike other than mine had forgotten the lower and refused to go back into it. The lower you can find; the upper is get lucky or make your own.
Upper and lower are different, really? Not according to the '66 parts book I have. They show one on the diagram and in the parts list a quantity of 2 for that part. It's just called an inflator bracket.

Railmonkey, there are shortcut methods if you are in a pinch. For example, you could take an old broom handle and thread it into the fork tube and put it into place, then tighten the pinch bolt on the lower tree while holding it in place, then remove the broomstick and install the fork tube cap finger tight. Loosen the clamp bolt, put the fork tube up into the taper with the fork cap nut and once tight, tighten the lower tree pinch bolt.

The challenge is keep the tube in the extended position. You can't get a hold on it due the the gaiter, spring and headlight ear/fork cover.

regards,
Rob
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:30 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Upper and lower are different, really? Not according to the '66 parts book I have. They show one on the diagram and in the parts list a quantity of 2 for that part. It's just called an inflator bracket.
You're correct. Mine were used from 63-65 only and the upper really is made of unobtainium.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:45 AM   #159 (permalink)
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You're correct. Mine were used from 63-65 only and the upper really is made of unobtainium.
You made me go look at the earlier parts manual. All that bracket is is a bent and shaped piece of thin barstock? Can you not make a replacement? That's what I would certainly do. If you can get the dimensions for the bracket, I'd be glad to make one for you. I'll even try to make it from old rusty metal if you like, provided I have some of the correct size sitting aroung here.

If you don't know the dimensions, I know a guy with a '65 who might have one on his bike. I know a couple of other places that might have them in their junk piles. Do you want me to look or is this a personal quest of yours?

regards,
Rob
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:48 AM   #160 (permalink)
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Getting back on topic

I'm managed to hijack my own thread over the inflator brackets.

I assembled the front and rear brake plates this week. Will shoot some pics and edit this post. I had forgotten how crummy they looked when I took them apart. I did leave a few digs and scratches in the front since they are part of the character/history of the bike.

Tubes and rim strips showed up this week, so will be mounting the tires in prep for putting the bike back on 2 wheels again.

regards,
Rob
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