Triumphrat

mtnbkr01201 · 01-10-2010, 10:41 AM

I am the second owner of a bike that had only 7700 original miles on it, and has never been rebuilt, it smoked badly upon starting (after leaning on the side stand, not so on the center stand), so I'm taking this winter to go completely through the engine.
I'm taking it down to the cranks, cleaning and bagging everything as I go, blowing out all oil ports, replacing the conrods with alloy rods (lighter), going +040 minimum - +060 max on the pistons, 10-1 compression, high performance lightened valves and springs, I have heads from a 10 bolt T140V 750 for two carbs, I'll be using a pair of 34mm Mikunis, 16 amp - 180 watt stator for a brighter halogen head lamp, and finally a primary belt drive with dry clutch plates (no drag), I will of course have the motor balanced.

Any thoughts - opinion's, idea's, pro or con ?.
My main goal is to have a bike that's very strong and can get me out of trouble when needed, reliable, and from time to time take it over to Lebonon drag strip in N.Y. for a bit of fun and be very competitive and maybe beat up on a Sportster or two

.

Bill

GrandPaulZ · 01-10-2010, 11:54 AM

TAKE LOTS OF PHOTOS!

Especially a nice, close up clean side-on shot of the bike (both sides), without accidentally cropping the tail light or parts of the wheels out of the frame when you're snapping the pix.

It'll make a contender for next year's "most improved" contest.

texjj · 01-10-2010, 11:23 PM

That sounds like a nice original bike. I agree with Paul's comment to take a lot of photos. Consider taking closeup photos before disassembling each subsystem as well. These can serve as reference photos for reassembly. I know this helped me already with my front headlight area, the front forks, and the front brakes.

mtnbkr01201 · 01-11-2010, 12:12 AM

I've already started photographing everything as I go, The original owner asked if I could send him a photo CD of his old baby being done over.
BTW, I forgot to add - I'll be going electronic ignition as well.
Bill

shrugger · 01-11-2010, 12:19 AM

Very Nice. The conrods are already aluminum, but with steel end caps.

mtnbkr01201 · 01-11-2010, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shrugger

Very Nice. The conrods are already aluminum, but with steel end caps.

That's why I'm going with rod's from MAP, all billet, no steel, lighter then stock.
I'm very much open to any idea's.

GrandPaulZ · 01-11-2010, 11:46 AM

Stock aluminum rods with steel caps have never failed me or any of my clients. If you go big-bore, cams and breathing mods, they MIGHT be beneficial on the street; otherwise they are really only worth the money in a race bike.

(my race bike has stock Triumph rods)

mtnbkr01201 · 01-11-2010, 06:48 PM

If I find no metal wear when I take the jugs off, then I'm staying with the stock rods, no need to split the cases.

mtnbkr01201 · 02-11-2010, 10:00 PM

Well......While I'm still going to concentrate on doing a complete rebuild on the engine, and will replace a few parts here and there to make her run right, it won't get to complete job I wanted to give her, nor a new coat of paint, just had a medical issue pop up I wasn't expecting, and is going to be quite costly, so though I'll still post some pictures of the ol girl, I won't be entering any contest with it, things do happen.
Anyways, still going to enjoy many good long rides.
Bill

Rathlindri · 02-14-2010, 06:53 PM

Bill,
best of luck to both you and your tiger. Spring is coming (eventually)..enjoy!