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01-09-2010, 11:11 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Site Supporter SuperBike Favourite Bike: '72 Bonneville 5-speed
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Woods of Virginia
Posts: 1,561 Other Motorcycle: '09 Harley CVO FLTRSE3 Extra Motorcycle: '97 Harley Wide Glide
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Restoring a '71 T100C
Triumph loving friends - I've been turning wrenches on Harley's for 45 years, but never a Triumph.....I always rode my friends Triumphs almost as many miles as my Harley until the '90's.
I'm restoring this sweet thing I got from the original owner with less than 10k km (6k mi.) on it. This pic is 8 yrs. old, and it's a lot rustier now and much rougher, and I've never done a restoration. I'm pulling down to every bolt, and have some ideas on how to refinish everything except the wheel hubs and front brake housing.
Any suggestions from the brain trust is greatly appreciated. Also any tips on removing rust from the cylinder fins.
gatornapper
Virginia woods dwelling, wood burning, log-home-builder/liver, motorcycle lovin' gun shootin' bible teachin' old codger
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01-09-2010, 11:15 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Site Supporter SOTP Vintage Series Favourite Bike: '67 Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 7,674 Other Motorcycle: British Iron Extra Motorcycle: Dreer Norton Prototype
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Welcome!
Wheel hubs and cylinders can be media blasted, then painted with Rust-O-Leum rattle cans. Multiple light coats from different angles (including flipping the parts over) with minimum dry time in between, for good coverage.
Front brake cover plate can be polished out nicely.
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01-09-2010, 11:38 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Site Supporter SuperBike Favourite Bike: '72 Bonneville 5-speed
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Woods of Virginia
Posts: 1,561 Other Motorcycle: '09 Harley CVO FLTRSE3 Extra Motorcycle: '97 Harley Wide Glide
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GrandPaulZ -
Thanks. So I'll have to completely disassemble the spokes, wheels,etc. too, right? Oh, well.
Checked out your site and looks like you may be my main "go-to" guy on this project - glad you are there.
Triumph Bonne was my all time fav bike too, but I was always riding my friends and never owned one. Depending on how this Trophy turns out, my long term goal may be to restore it, sell it, and get a '60's Bonneville like the ones you've restored. Then again, I may just like it and keep it.
Thanks again friend,
gatornapper
aka richard hanes
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01-13-2010, 09:47 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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New Member
Minitwins
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 15
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Richard-
Powder coating is another option (still requires removing the spokes), which in my opinion is much more durable than spray paint. I have a few T100C's, and am developing some trick parts for these bikes. I have a retail store specializing in 500cc unit twins, take a look.
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01-14-2010, 08:47 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Site Supporter SuperBike Favourite Bike: '72 Bonneville 5-speed
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Woods of Virginia
Posts: 1,561 Other Motorcycle: '09 Harley CVO FLTRSE3 Extra Motorcycle: '97 Harley Wide Glide
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Disassembly of Amal carb
Ok, good friends - since I'm new to working on Triumph's, I've hit a snag disassembling the carb for a complete soak in carb cleaner and rebuild - the slide won't come out of the top........I know there's a simple trick I'm missing. One old Triumph friend said I have to twist the slide 1/4 turn to get it out, but that won't work either.
What's the trick?
thanks,
gatornapper
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01-14-2010, 11:06 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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New Member
Minitwins
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 15
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Amal slide removal
Typically, when the slide won't come free, it means that the throttle slide bore is warped and has taken on an oval shape. The throttle slide bore tends to warp over time, primarily due to distortion of the carburetor mounting flange from over-tightening to the intake manifold.
You might try mounting the carb to a 1/4" thick steel plate held in a vise. Drill 5/16" holes spaced 2" (center-to-center) and bolt the carb to the plate with 5/16" x 18 tpi bolts, and slowly tighten down the carb. You might find a sweet spot when torquing down the bolts, wherein the throttle slide bore becomes round again, and then permits the slide to come free. Also squirt some light machine oil inside the bore, might help overcome some of the resistance between the slide and bore.
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01-16-2010, 11:37 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Site Supporter SOTP Vintage Series Favourite Bike: '67 Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 7,674 Other Motorcycle: British Iron Extra Motorcycle: Dreer Norton Prototype
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Good advice in that last post.
You are flirting with disaster to use the carb as-is.
The bore needs to be refurbished, and you need a new slide.
If that sucker sticks at an inopportune time (99.99% of the time), you are going for a wild ride that won't end in warm fuzzy feelings.
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01-17-2010, 08:19 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Site Supporter SuperBike Favourite Bike: '72 Bonneville 5-speed
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Woods of Virginia
Posts: 1,561 Other Motorcycle: '09 Harley CVO FLTRSE3 Extra Motorcycle: '97 Harley Wide Glide
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GrandpaulZ -
I agree, but the slide works quite freely in its normal range of motion, and much beyond. It only sticks when it is 90% of the way out of the bore, a position it will never get close to in normal operation. This would lead me to think that the slide itself is warped in the very lowest part.
Clearly tho, either the bore or slide is warped, and I'll make sure to correct that.
Thanks again to the brain-trust for the input.
'nuther question. . . bike has been sitting for eight years. What engine seals should I be replacing?
I have just been blessed to learn of a good friend of two good Harley friends I ride with regularly who was a Triumph factory mechanic for much of his life and has a collection of about 46 old Triumph's and an almost limitless collection of parts about an hour from me.
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01-17-2010, 11:04 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Site Supporter SOTP Vintage Series Favourite Bike: '67 Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 7,674 Other Motorcycle: British Iron Extra Motorcycle: Dreer Norton Prototype
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Main seal on the left side behind the primary sprocket, tranny mainshaft seal on the inner primary "door", tranny main seal underneath the drive sprocket, and 2 seals in the timing cover.
Sounds like a great sorce for parts and assistance!
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01-21-2010, 12:48 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Site Supporter SuperBike Favourite Bike: '72 Bonneville 5-speed
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Woods of Virginia
Posts: 1,561 Other Motorcycle: '09 Harley CVO FLTRSE3 Extra Motorcycle: '97 Harley Wide Glide
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Big day - replacing all fluids & cranking engine for 1st time
Ok, friends, here goes. Cleaned out a trashy oil tank thoroughly, cleaned all hoses, new oils throughout and ready to get this sweet thing running.
Question: anyone know the original horsepower of the 490cc T100C Trophy? 36? 39?
Question 2: How rare is the T100C? Everything I read says it was a made for USA only import.....but mine was sold in Denmark in '71 (I have original invoice copy - $875.00). Speedo is in kilometers. Is mine even more rare than a USA Trophy?
Thanks....I'll let you know how the startup goes - if it goes. I expect it to crank right up.
gatornapper
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