Triumphrat

RexxyPup · 08-16-2009, 01:52 PM

Hi,

As most of the regulars know, I have harboured desires to fly the flag on my fairing for some time, but didn't want the Sprint Logos to get in the way.

So I decided to buy some cheap damaged panels (as it turned out, I had 3 of the four, and so only needed the rarest one - the LH main panel) and fix them up. While I was teaching myself to do the stuff, I thought it might be useful to others if I did a series of pictorials of how I've done it, so here is part one

Cracks, Broken Tabs and decal removal

So here is the LH main panel, bought from a breakers for £40 (inc P&P)

There are several problems with the panel; the obvious gravel rash, a crack in the rear of the fairing that runs round the curved side and into the large mounting hole,

the missing tab at the top near the heated switch hole,

and oh yes... it's the wrong blue!

After experimenting with Plastex, and finding that it was too brittle for tabs, I came across something else that has really impressed me.... Q-Bond

you get two pots of a superglue like substance, a pot of fine black plastic dust, another of fine metal dust.

This has turned out to be really strong... how strong will be come apparent later.

All the photos can also be found here...
http://www.triumphrat.net/memberalbu...y.php/cat/1165

RexxyPup · 08-17-2009, 02:34 AM

So starting with the crack, I used a Stanley blade to make the crack on the front of the panel into a shallow vee shaped valley, and made the rear one a deeper version of the same.

I started by pouring the black powder into the front valley and put drops of the glue onto the powder - as you do this some small puffs of smoke sometimes rise up, and if you are doing a large pour like the tab later, it can get quite hot. I gave it a rough sand with 600 grit Wet and Dry and will cover it with fine filler later.

I then did the same for the rear, spreading the powder a little further onto the surface to increase the strength

A solid repair resulted

RexxyPup · 08-17-2009, 12:53 PM

The most useful thing from the Plastex was a ball of what appeared to be silly putty. It is hard and springy when at room temperature, but drop it in boiling water for 5 minutes and it becomes soft and mouldable.

I used this to take a copy of the top tab on my other fairing and then held it in place with some masking tape.

I filled the mould with a think layer of powder and applied the glue to give a slightly rough looking tab, but because it was thin, it was easy to file to the right shape.

After shaping the tab, I added a shuttering of masking tape around the outside and filled it more deeply with the powder and applied the glue. I turned the panel over, and use the tape as shuttering for a pour on the underside. What came out was this...

A bit rough looking, but after a few minutes with a needle file, the final tab looked like this...

What I was really impressed with was that I had the panel clamped to a bench, with the tab unsupported over the edge while I was giving it some beans with the files, and the tab was as solid as you like.

You can actually take hold of the tab now, and flex the front edge of the panel using the tab!!!

RexxyPup · 08-17-2009, 03:22 PM

I don't want the big decals on my panels, as they are where the flag will go, so even if they weren't trashed, I wanted to remove them (I'm going to put miniature versions over the indicator bulges when I'm done)

First off, my decals are definitely under a clear lacquer layer. I have previously asked in this forum how to remove them, and it was suggested that I would have to sand down to the decal, and then heat it to remove it. Well I tried this, and it did work, but I discovered that you don't need to sand.

I spent a little time with a hair dryer heating the end of the decal, and after a couple of minutes it is possible to slip a scalpel under the end of the decal and ease it up.

Once you have the decal started, you can pull it up along its length provided you have warmed it enough. Don't warm it enough and it will snap, and you start over.

If you are very careful with the scalpel, you could do this without marking the paint underneath. Of course, where the gravel rash went over the decal, the decal snapped anyway, so it was a bit of a chore in those areas.

I'm now left with two stripped and repaired panels ready for prepping. The bad news is that because the decals sat under the clear, there is a distinct step in the surface that I will have to remove as part of the prep work... ah well

I hope you found that useful. When I have completed the prep work, I'll do part two of this guide.

Rexx