Triumphrat

Mmagus

Hi all,

Based on the conversation in another thread and my inability to find what I am requesting, I wonder if someone would post a basic step by step to lube the rear wheel bearings. Since the break down of this bearing seems very dangerous I am guessing that many would be happy to have the info.

Pics are not necessary but the correct sequance, maybe any special tools and/or their substitutes, and the correct lube type would be very valuable.

Thanks a bunch all!

M

Katana Boy

If no one else answers this post I will gladly walk you through it, but only after this weekend. If you can wait that long.

KB

pushr0d

I'll drag out my manual this evening, and post the procedure tomorrow ayem.

Mmagus

Hi there KB,

Thanks for the offer. I am hoping that someone does post as I planned on tackling it this Saturady. However if no one does I will hit it Monday. I am not taking any chances and have the bike parked until I adress this.

Cheers
M

StevyR

Hi there

A reasonably simple task. You will need the 46mm socket for the rear wheel and shock asborber nut and a torque wrench.

Remove the chain guard and slacken the chain right off and pull it off the sprocket and lay it on the swinging arm out of the way.
Put the bike in 1st gear. Knock up the peening on the shock absorber large nut with a small screw driver , apply the foot brake and slacken the nut a little .
Remove the rear wheel.
Remove the rear break caliper and hang it out of the way on the left hand side of the bike.
Fully remove the large nut on the shock absorber and pull off the shock absorber from the axle taking care to catch the conicle washer. Make note which way around the washer fits. remove the stepped washer from behind the conical washer.
There is a flat washer that sits between the shock absorber and the drive side bearing remove this and retain.
remove the rear wheel.
Pull the axle carefully out of the hub from the right hand side. If this is stubborn a smart tap with a copper hammer will set it free.Take care not to introduce any dirt onto the axle or RHS needle roller bearing.
Place a finger full of the correct grease onto the needles of the needle roller bearing again taking care not to introduce any dirt. this is sufficient grease.
Reinsert the axle through the bearings ensuring the RHS outer oil seal is correctly seated. Replace the flat washer up against the drive side bearings over the axle and re install the shock absorber assembley. Reinstall the step washer and then the conical washer making sure it is the correct way round. you should ideally use a new nut so that the peening to stop it spinning is in good order, but you can get away with using the original if you keep a constant eye on things to ascertain it does not loosen in use.
Put the caliper back on.
Put the chain back on and roughly adjust and tighten (but not fully) the adjuster pinch bolt, only sufficient to hold the chain adjustment during centre nut tightening. Put the bike in 1st gear and apply the foot brake and torque up the centre nut. The torque setting is 108 foot/ pounds or 146 N/metres. Peen the nut into the slot of the axle to stop it spinning in use.
Replace the rear wheel and tighten to the same torque.
Replace the chain gaurd and finally fine tune the chain adjustment and tighten the clamp nut to 42 foot/ pounds.
This takes less than an hour to complete.
There is no need to grease the drive side bearings these are sealed for life.
Good for another 10k miles
Hope this helps

Cheers

StevyR

KitNYC

I did this without peening, and nobody got knocked up!

An admirable effort, StevyR, but possibly a bit on the British side for us Merkins. Took me a while to figure out the shock absorber you mention must be what we call the cush drive!

Oh, also, try putting the bike in 6th instead of 1st!

Mmagus, do you have the Haynes? Section 1•25 talks about lubing the rear wheel bearing, referring you to chapter 6 for hub removal. Once the axle is removed from the hub, the needle bearings will be plainly visible.

Cheers,
-Kit

oldndumb

I'll try to do it this evening.

For now, it is a reasonably simple task for a reasonably competent mechanic. if you have never done this sort of work, or work that could have serious consequences, this is not the task to learn on.

Do not put fresh grease in with old grease.

Remove the bearing, clean and inspect it. Do not spin it.

Use new grease seals.

And do not take the shock absorber loose unless you enjoy doing unnecessary work.

__________________
Oldndumb
Caveat lector

frider

Shock absorber= cush drive rubbers= old tyre inner tubes ( for us bodge it n fix it types)

EDIT: In no way am I condoning replacing your worn cush drive rubbers with bits of old tyre innertube!!!!

__________________
Chocolate Food of the Gods!!!!!!

Mmagus

Thanks for the clairfication on his I was trying to picture in my mind why I would need the shock absorber off. I have repacked a bearing or two in my time...but never removed one from a cycle...just cars. I just talked to the local triumph dealer and the mech said they just use Yamaha bearing grease to do it. (they also are a Yammie dealer). I am guessing lithium based bearing grease? orrrr?

OND clean it with.... White gas/naptha? I have used that before totally disolves grease and dosnt hurt rubber at all. In fact its used in drycleaning clothes lol.

Thanks for the assist all. I will try to find a manual online somewhere for reference too.

M

SteelShepherd

I can only comment on the repacking the bearing as I haven't owned my ST long enough to do any maintenance other than lube the chain. Repacking a bearing is a fairly universal technique.

Carb cleaner makes a good parts cleaner. Following with electrical contact cleaner is even better as these generally dry very quickly and leave no residue. Alone they are not good degreasers.

You not only want to completely clean and dry the bearing, but also the bearing housing, and shaft. The shaft will contact the needle rollers, and must not have scratches. Hairline scratches can be smoothed with emery cloth. Larger and you may want to replace the shaft.

Assuming there is room for the grease to get out of the bearing if too much is applied, don't worry about applying too much. Too much is only a problem if the excess has nowhere to go. The grease that works it's way out can help to block something else from getting in. In more open applications, grease is treated as a seal of sorts

If the clearance between the needle bearing and the sealed roller bearings is very tight, you should be able to see air gaps between the needle rollers. You may even want to pack it, slide it onto the cleaned shaft, spin it for a while, remove it, and wipe off the shaft. The bearing should now contain a safe amount of grease.

The bearing race should not be able to turn inside the wheel. else it will roll as the loaded wheel rolls and a type of corrosion called "fretting" can result. If it's a bit loose, a light film of blue Loctite completely over the outer surface will prevent it from moving. Loctite has an industrial product that is thicker and green that is specifically designed for this purpose, but the blue will suffice if you can't find it and the tolerances are tight.

When I say a light film, I'm talking very light!! If there so much that it runs into the needle bearing when you insert it, you may need to replace the new bearing. Follow the bearing with a rag as you insert it and hopefully prevent any from entering the bearing. It will set into a thermoplastic in 40 minutes or so. Faster ifyou have the industrial version which contains less solvent.

Some people hate using loctite, but used appropriately, it can prevent many worse problems.

Again, this advice is not triumph specific. Be sure to use the specified grease unless you are genuinely qualified to spec a superior product.