Triumphrat

WardenRoss

How To Install MFW Foot Pegs



Disclaimer


I am not a mechanic, just a poor-soul trying to get by cheap. My instructions may not include the correct language or proper descriptions of the parts and mechanical devices. I learn simply by trial and error and call-it-as-I-see-it. That said; follow my instructions at your own risk! Cheers!

Shifter Side

1. Remove the small circular wire-retaining clip securing the front ball joint at the forward end of the shifter rod. Take note of how the clip is positioned for the reinstall.

2. Push the front ball joint off the pivot ball. You may have to loosen the Allen bolts holding on the foot peg assembly to allow the ball joint to swing free.

3. Remove the above-mentioned Allen bolts. The foot peg assembly can now be removed as you pull the shifter rod though the opening in the bike’s frame toward the rear of the bike.

4. Remove the shift lever from the back of the foot peg assembly by removing the Allen head bolt. You will need to place the assembly in a vice as the Allen head bolt is secured with super lock-tight. I used vise grips on the garage floor on a wooden block.

5. Now you can remove the factory foot peg by first removing the circular clip at the bottom of the pivot pin and then driving out the retaining pin at the top with a 9/32 punch. Don’t loose the small retaining pin! Now pull out the pivot pin that holds the foot peg. The foot peg return spring may give you a little trouble as it catches on the groove at the top of the pivot pin.

6. Install the new foot peg making sure to align the spring properly as you slide in the pivot pin. Reinstall and drive in the small retaining (top) pin and install the bottom circular clip. Make sure you have not installed the new foot peg upside down! The bottom of the new foot peg has an indention (stop) that goes downward.

7. Reinstall the shift lever to the inside of the assembly using blue lock-tight. I would add waterproof grease to the shaft before reinstalling it.

8. Before you reinstall the assembly, you will want to run the shifter rod out to the max length. Note the nuts have left handed threads. You may want to use a bench vise to secure the rod. I used vise grips on the garage floor with a wooden block. The nuts on the shaft may have super lock-tight applied so use caution loosening the nuts.

9. Reinstall the assembly but only start the Allen bolts so as to allow the front ball joint room to squeeze by the counter shaft cover. Grease the ball joint with waterproof grease. Pop on the front ball joint. Reinstall the wire clip (there is a miniature hole that the wire goes through). Tighten the Allen bolts to 27 Nm.

10. Set the new foot peg to the desired position. After you test ride the bike, and decide on the right position for you, I would recommend adding blue lock tight to the bolts and tighten them per the manufacturer’s instructions. THE END.


Brake Side


1. Remove the retaining clip at the bottom of the master cylinder brake rod that connects the rod to the brake lever. You can do this with only your fingers. Then remove the pin.

2. Remove the Allen bolts that secure the foot peg assembly to the frame. Now remove the assembly.

3. Remove the brake lever return spring. Now remove the brake lever from the back of the assembly by removing the Allen bolt that secures it. You will need to place the assembly in a vice as the Allen head bolt is secured with super lock-tight. I used vise grips on the garage floor on a wooden block.

4. Now you can remove the factory foot peg by first removing the circular clip at the bottom of the pivot pin and then driving out the retaining pin at the top with a 9/32 punch. Don’t loose the small retaining pin! Now pull out the pivot pin that holds the foot peg. The foot peg return spring may give you a little trouble as it catches on the groove at the top of the pivot pin.

5. Install the new foot peg making sure to align the spring properly as you slide in the pivot pin. Reinstall and drive in the small retaining (top) pin and install the bottom circular clip. Make sure you have not installed the new foot peg upside down! The bottom of the new foot peg has an indention (stop) that goes downward.

6. Reinstall the brake lever to the back of the foot peg assembly using blue lock tight on the Allen bolt. I would also grease the shaft with waterproof grease. Re-hook the return spring.

7. Reinstall the foot peg assembly to the bike. Tighten the Allen head bolts to 27 Nm.

8. Reconnect the brake rod, pin and clip and adjust it by loosening the lock nut then turning the rod to lower the brake lever. It will take some trial and error to get the brake lever where you want it. Be sure to tighten the lock nut.

9. Set the new foot peg to the desired position. After you test ride the bike, and decide on the right position for you, I would recommend adding blue lock tight to the bolts and tighten them per the manufacturer’s instructions. THE END

Calliway

Well done Warden. Great post!

Lino

nice work.. now I have to try those

DaveM

Great post WardenRoss:

How about we leave this thread here for a bit then I will move it into the tips and tricks subforum?

Wotcha Think Donski?

Cheers
DaveM:

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WardenRoss

Sure Dave,

My thoughts exactly.

When I have the time I may dismantle the pegs and make some pictures to go with the instructions.

I hope the instrutions are clear enough not to need pictures though.

Thanks for letting it stay for a short while on the "front page." This way some of the more experienced members can comment and help me edit and improve the instructions. Plus it saves a lot of PMs and me repeating information.

DaveM

OK

would some one else like to add some helpful comments here before Don & I put this thread into the MT & sub forum?

DaveM

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BigFrank

Nicely done Warden! Look forward to your report form the twisties.:

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WardenRoss

If you find that after adjusting the shifter adjusting rod, the actual shift lever is still not low enough, you can move the clamp on the end of the shift shaft.

See the pix below. The clamp and shift shaft have factory locater dimples. Normally they would be aligned for assembly. You can loosen the clamp and move the clamp one notch clockwise. One notch will not adversely effect the normal leverage. One notch will lower the rubber (toe) end of the shift lever approximately one-half inch.

brandon

Warden,

How have the new footpeg working out? Not to get too personel but what length displacement arm did you use and what is your heigth?

Thanks,

Brandon

WardenRoss

By displacement arm are you referring to:

The mid piece on the MFW pegs?

or

The shifter rod?

The mid piece is 30mm and I didn't have to change the shifter rod. Just adjusted it out, and moved the shifter shaft clamp (per pix).

How about a 34" or so inseam with big feets!

I dearly love the pegs...BEST MONEY THAT I HAVE SPENT ON MY SPRINTY...PERIOD!

:

Clickie here for more info......

http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-for...ower-pegs.html