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| Maintenance Tips and Tricks for your Sprint Maintenance tips, tricks, performance suggestions and proven setups for the Sprints |
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02-01-2009, 06:24 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 111
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question for chain experts
time is approaching to replace chain/sprockets on my '02 RS. in shopping for replacement/upgrade chains I'm getting confusing information re designations. e.g. some recommend an RX-Ring upgrade, such as the RK 530XSOZ1, while others suggest an "XW" Ring chain, and still others seem to use those designations interchangeably. Most charts I see suggest the XSOZ1 is only for bikes up to 750cc, while some say they're ok up to about 1000cc. I also see information saying the XW ring chains are more for longer life than strength and others seem to emphasize that their performance is better due to less friction. They are typically claimed to be good up to 1400cc. It seems most but not all of those have a designation beginning with GB or something else. I also see both RK and RK Tagsuki (sp.?) on different boxes and web sites, as if there is a different manufacturer or name change recently perhaps, or something like that. Are there differences that I should know about in that regard?
I'd also like to go from my current 18/43 (dropped the front from 19) gearing to either an 18/44 or 18/45, depending on which seems the better combination, so am thinking of ordering one of each to try out, along with a clip master link for the chain so I can try them first, then rivet the master once I decide. I have been told that DID chains can only be riveted and there are no clip links for them. If that's true I'd rule them out, unless someone can advise me differently. It also seems that Regina (oem) isn't considered as good a chain anymore compared to DID and RK.
While I am willing to go up to the best chain out there, within reason, I'd rather avoid gold colored ones (same for chain rings) and just stay with original silver, nickel or black colors. It seems that many of the upper end 530 chains now are gold(brass)-same for chain rings.
I'd appreciate having anyone who really knows about this stuff advise me about the differences in these products as well as what they'd advise me to do re chains and rings when I do make the changes in the next month or so. And, of course, any advice as to best pricing and dealers would also be welcome. The RK 530XSOZ1 (112link) seems to be offered for anywhere from $80 up to about $125 and, at the moment, I'm leaning toward that, unless there's a good reason not to. I understand the rings(five bolt) and chains are same as Suzuki (750 or 1000) but don't know that for sure either. According to most charts, I should be able to go up to 18/45, w/a chain no longer than 112 links, cut it back as needed, and still have good clearance for the oem hugger, while keeping enough adjuster space for future stretch. Again all that seems dependent more on actual experiences that owners have had, rather than relying on representations of vendors.
I also plan to just stay w/ steel sprockets for now, although I am open to some of the hybrid or all aluminum types, if it would make any sense, and even to trying a 520 kit, for track days, again if that makes any sense. I doubt that taking a second off my lap time would mean as much for me as just having a durable, reliable and long lasting set-up for my everyday riding.
I am planning to go w/a K&N air filter also and already have the TOR can and the bike seems to run great already so maybe I'll find that the new cleaner plus gearing change will work together somewhat to give me better overall response, especially in canyons, on track, street, etc. Again, there seem to be differences of opinion, even among Triumph dealers, as to whether any tune change is necessary with installation of the K&N cleaner. Anyone know for sure?
I have, but not yet used, a Tuneboy, purchased on a special offer recently. I don't want to mess with it until I've made these other changes. Then, I'll be back seeking advice on how best to utilize the Tuneboy for tweaking whatever I can from that point onward.
Again, thanks to all in advance, for any helpful wisdom on any of this, especially the chain and chain ring questions.
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02-04-2009, 11:35 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix Favourite Bike: 08 Sprint ST
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Centennial, Co
Posts: 149 Other Motorcycle: Niner RIP 9 MTB Extra Motorcycle: Audi A4 1.8T, Stage 2
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I'm not up on the new chain technology (yet) the X-ring chains were just coming out just as I was leaving the sport. Tensile and fatigue strength are what you need to looking for, they are not all created equal. Actually, the new D.I.D. X2 looks like an interesting candidate. They have a 520 version rated upto 1000cc which should be fine for the Sprint.
But, I was racing 180+hp 750's and the first thing I always did was a 530 to 520 conversion, which also included 1 down and 2 up sprockets (generic track settings). Reliability/Durability was never an issue for me, but the improved response and acceleration was very noticeable, the whole rotating mass thing.
When it comes time to replace the chain on the Sprint, I will be looking to do a 520 swap w/ alum rear sprocket. I've already drooped 1 up front, and its nice.
Anyway, great questions. It's got me thinking now too...
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02-05-2009, 11:45 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 111
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say Evil,
thanks. any experience with lightened wheels? I've wondered how much effect a 520 kit will produce if you still use the oem wheels. I'd think it would make the most sense to do both together which is what I've been thinking about doing. So far, I can find rear wheel fitment for my RS, but not front ones- go figure!
as a serious bicyclist/triathlete, a few years back, I was able to see how much advantage lightened wheels and rotating mass made-- very noticeable, especially over long rides.
for moto, on track, quick would be the trick more than say, long distance savings- although both would add up on a road bike, like mine.
RSRAT
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02-06-2009, 12:46 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Premium Member
Site Supporter Formula Extreme Favourite Bike: Y2K RS
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 468 Other Motorcycle: 750 Monster
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Just as a quick FYI
The rear sprocket from a gsxr 1000 fits directly onto the RS rear wheel. I went with a 44 rear with the 18 front. Revs a bit higher on the highway, but the lowdown drive is excellent.
Also, the GSXR sprocket is half the price of a "Triumph" unit.
Do a search on gearing, there is plenty that has already been said on the subject, as well as part numbers.
__________________
...
"Any fool can criticize, condemn, and complain - but it takes character and self-control to be understanding and forgiving."
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02-06-2009, 10:48 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix Favourite Bike: 08 Sprint ST
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Centennial, Co
Posts: 149 Other Motorcycle: Niner RIP 9 MTB Extra Motorcycle: Audi A4 1.8T, Stage 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSRAT
say Evil,
thanks. any experience with lightened wheels? I've wondered how much effect a 520 kit will produce if you still use the oem wheels. I'd think it would make the most sense to do both together which is what I've been thinking about doing. So far, I can find rear wheel fitment for my RS, but not front ones- go figure!
RSRAT
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I did have the opportunity to try it both ways, my SS had oem wheels and my SBK was fitted with Marchenisi magnesiums. Of course the lighter mags made a huge difference, but even with the oem's it was still very noticeable.
I'm also a MTB rider/racer and will try to save weight on the wheels whenever practical...there are limits though, I am after all a Clydsedale.  :
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02-07-2009, 12:57 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 111
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again, thanks Evil, that's good to know. afraid I've picked up a few extra pounds myself lately-- from my former svelte self. working on it though. clearly not much point in lightening everything else if you're going to keep the heavy payload anyway.
I did not realize the 520 kit w/aluminum rings would be that noticeable, so its good to know that. I'll play around w/ an 18/44 and 18/45 setup, along w/ a new 530 chain and see what seems best, then probably fork out some $$ again and try a 520 at least for the track days.
If this bike continues to please me, as it has, then I'll just have to break down and look for some light weight wheels. BTW, just got an email from a UK vendor who says he can supply Dymags, BST or Marchesini's for my bike. Of course they go around $2500 to $3500 for a set.
From my auto hot rodding and bicycle racing days I established a preference long ago for the "GT" style car, "fast touring" bicycle and now, the sport touring motorcycle all because I like the combination of good performance and handling along with a long term comfort package- ie, longer wheelbase chassis or frame with ergonomic comfort combined with otherwise tweaked components. That way I can enjoy the best of both and still have an everyday "streetable" machine. Otherwise, I'd need a bigger garage and more discretionary income so I could keep a dedicated track tool around, not to mention a full time chiropractor.
I'm sure that if I actually upgrade to "race" wheels, I'll get no end of sh*t for it from my riding buddies who will want to know why I didn't just get a duc. I'll have to stick to my story and just say, have you ever tried to ride a duc all day? There was time I wanted an Aprilia Mille but an all day jaunt in the mountains with one cured me of that notion.
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