Triumphrat

cafetbird

Here is a link from an earlier thread on failed sprag starter clutchs that shows step-by-step photos of the replacement process.

Hopefully, these photos will be useful when replacing a sprag.

Sprag replacement photos

Note: I didn't take these photos - but many thanks to the fellow T-bird owner that did.

[ This message was orginally submitted by: robsmoto on 2007-06-17 08:30 ]

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yellowtiger

I just finished doing a sprag clutch on a friend's Trident. Fortunately, he had a Canadian version that had the cover above the sprag and starter idler gear. I think the tool I made would work on any of the bikes with sprag issues. I am not a Triumph mechanic and this is the first Triumph that I have ever worked on. It worked for me and just thought I would share it so there is more information out there. I had trouble getting instructions how to do it so I figured it out myself. Some people used a dremel, some used a sharp screwdriver and scraped the casing away. This cut a perfect circle (centered with the shaft bearings) and did it within a minute. I hope this helps someone out there. I realize that most engine cases have to be split but it should work on those too. Good luck!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmdhx5nNxT8
Adam

Tbirdnz

Welcome to the forum YT and thankyou for the excellent video.


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Ride on !

peterrose

Is there an average milage that they go at and does it only affect some bikes or is it a case of when rather than if ?

I've 11,500 miles on my 95 Sprint, no idea if it's had the sprag clutch done or not.

parrycm

Peter.....

Mine went somewhere between 16/20K - gave me lots of warning. Started with the occasional CLACK and then gradually went to a complete inability to engage over a period of about 4 months. Factors include state of tune (hard-starters will incur the problem more quickly due to lots of cranking), starting in neutral or in gear, riding pattern and pure luck.

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Chris

"Panniers can never hold everything you want, but they CAN hold everything you need."

MickMaguire

It was TriumphRat member SWare

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Mick...

Just remember; an awful lot of the free advice you will get on forums is worth exactly what you paid for it. There will always be somebody trying to convince you to do something really stupid, just because they did it or want to do it.

Lushy

Mine has gone caboom at less than 31,00 on the speedo.

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wheatage84

Hey guys I think I'm in the same boat with my 95 sprint. Dealer said it would cost 14 hours worth of labor if the engine has to be pulled apart. Im gonna check tonight and see if there is the door on top of the crankcase for access. AHH that just irks me. At 100 bucks an hour, thats a down payment on a brand new daytona ...

TripSki

I'm new to this. I hope this ends up in the right place. I did the sprag on my '99 S3 at 26k. Engine out, split the cases. I'm not a mechanic. I did it with a Haynes manual. The old sprag seemed fine when I took it out. But you can't apply the same forces to it with your hands that it is subjected to in the engine. It was a big job, but very satisfying in the end. About 4000 miles later it still starts every morning. Just last week I noticed some coolant coming from the head gasket. Has anyone done a head gasket? The manual says it can be done in the frame. Another big job though, it seems to me. Happy New Year!!

Joubert-SA

Oh man... this can't be happening.

I've just bought myself a well looked after 96 Thunderbird with only 11500km. Real beaut! Since the bike has been standing probably for the best part of 12 years (previous owner did 5000km in the last 12 years) there are a number of venturi rubbers needing replacement, and moving the bike up from sea-level to 1800m above also requires some adjustments, I assume.

And over the past two weeks (my first 1000km on the new bike) I now just end op with a loud CLACK (and a starter spinning) when I hit the start button. What a welcome to the world of classic Triumphs ;-(

Will be reading a LOT over the next few days. Getting parts in South Africa requires a lot of patience.