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Maintenance Tips and Tricks for the T3 Classics Maintenance tips, tricks, performance suggestions and proven setups for the Hinckley Classic Triples. DO NOT POST YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!!

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Old 09-04-2010, 09:58 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tbird995 View Post
the Speedo and tacho illumination bulbs are a different wattage to the standard you can buy at the car accessory shops, beware!! I had to replace the Speedo as the higher wattage bulbs melted the odometer and the trip
Those are European spec bulbs. Less wattage than American standard bulbs.

You can find them in Advance Auto Parts and Auto Zone parts stores. They are made by Sylvania, and the package states European spec. If you read the fine print you will find they match the wattage quoted in the Triumph owners manual.
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:00 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Wow. This is a great thread. I learned a lot. And I am learning more.

Thanks.

I sold my last bike, a Yamaha, in 1992, and just bought a 2001 Legend TT. I love it.
So, it has been a long time.

I have a question. I had to replace the right turn signal/headlight bracket and now I cannot get the headlight back in the casing.

What am I doing wrong?

Last edited by rmered3382; 10-03-2010 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:55 AM   #43 (permalink)
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You need more Jiggle in your Wiggle.

It's crowded in there.

Hook the rim over the little tit on the shell, then snap it on like the snap on lid on a Medicine bottle. Can be frustrating. The connectors inside need to be spread out around the edge of the shell so that there is enough clearance.

I hope that helps a little, like I said it really is not easy.....
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Old 10-17-2010, 12:21 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denny View Post
You need more Jiggle in your Wiggle.

It's crowded in there.

Hook the rim over the little tit on the shell, then snap it on like the snap on lid on a Medicine bottle. Can be frustrating. The connectors inside need to be spread out around the edge of the shell so that there is enough clearance.

I hope that helps a little, like I said it really is not easy.....
Thanks. That is what I did. It took some wiggling and jiggling. I finally got it on.
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:09 AM   #45 (permalink)
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sprag clutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slinky View Post
A good idea for a thread Scott, but before we go making potential new owners paranoid, we should make it clear that not all of the problems are inevitable, or even likely.

A couple of other issues that come up regularly-

Sprag clutch failure. Before VIN # ??

Ditto The alternator impellor bolt shearing.
I'm doing mine now, its anearly one with access plate.
Can the shaft be drawn from alternator end or do I need to strip right side of engine out to remove sprag?
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:34 AM   #46 (permalink)
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I haven't done this job but I don't think anything can be done at the alternator side except its own drive 'impeller'. Probably clutch basket needs to come off?
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Old 12-16-2011, 04:45 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Cafetbird quotes the flickering temperature light when the bike isn't overheating, and yes mines started doing that. Anybody know where the extra earth wire goes to. I've had all the headlight and clocks off and for a time it went away but now its come back again

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Originally Posted by cafetbird View Post
First thought on this thread - T300 classics are rock solid, very reliable motorcycles. However, one or two issues may come up from time to time, the following have been known:

1. Temperature lights flicks on and off when the bike is NOT overheating. This is known to be a ground issue in the wiring harness.

2. Electrical system is known to overcharge the battery. Check the fluid level in your battery often to make sure it does not boil dry. Some also suspect that this leads to problems with the coils failing prematurely.

3. Coils - as stated in #2 - some bikes experience pre-mature coil failure. Some T-Birds were fitted with West German coils, but most bikes are fitted with coils manufactrured by Gill. Gill coils are less reliable. Nology makes coils that can be used as replacements, and are much more reliable.

4. Pressed nuts inside the silencers are known to break loose. It is best not to remove the brackets from the muffler unless absolutely necessary - instead, remove the bracket and muffler as an assembly.

5. 95 and early 96 models had an issue with a weak starter clutch. If you are considering one of these bikes, make sure it has been replaced.

This thread is for folks to list the know issues with the T300 classics line, in order to help out new owners of these bikes, and folks interested in purchasing one. All the on-line "experts", feel free to chime in with your experiences!



[ This message was edited by: cafetbird on 2006-05-21 06:26 ]
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:36 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Temp Light Fix

Located in this thread is a PDF file with the temp light fix instructions...
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:10 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Thought I'd throw in my experiences. Got a '96 Sprint and whoever designed it didn't think much about access for servicing.

To change the front sprocket (or even look at it) you have to drain the oil! 4 litres worth!!

Centre spark plug - enough said previously.

Air filter change - have to remove carbs!!

Rear brake caliper - exhaust silencer is in the way, but it's just manageable to get the caliper off without taking the silencer off. For what ever reason I managed only 4000 miles on a set of rear brakes pads and also managed to ruin the caliper coz I wore them down so low without checking them! but 4000 miles!! I'll be keeping a close eye on them this time!

When I got it the centre stand was broken, probably due to the weight of getting onto the stand.

Finish is terrible, engine coating peeling, flaking.

But the reason I still have it...

I find the riding position comfy, pillion passengers like their seat too, cornering is excellent (tho top heavy as already mentioned), big petrol tank, 25 liters. Now get this... I did 3500 miles around Norway last year and when I couldn't find a petrol station for miles I ended up achieving 225 miles WITHOUT switching to reserve! 55 kph very strictly enforced speed limit and long open roads helped achieve this. Good front brakes, but i do have 'special' EBC brake pads in for the R&D Department of EBC.
I also have a 1996 Sprint.
As a motor mechanic I have seen some had to get at cars and bikes,trucks. As far as the centre spark plugs What is the issue. I use a long extension with a swivel and out she comes. As far as the air cleaner. I replaced the standard one with a K&N not long ago and I didn't have to remove the carbs. The box just comes out with a little twisting.
The centre stand, Now that is a joke. It is 55mm short on the right side and 50mm on the left. I had to cut the foot lever off to do the measurement so I could see why it doesn't lift the rear tyre off the ground. Why would you make a centre stand that doesn't lift the rear tyre off the ground? I have heard of saying money by using less steel but that is a joke.
I don't know about the rear caliper as I have an aftermarket exhaust and so is nowhere near it (Staintune)
Paint is all fine other than little chips. As we don't get snow here, we are luck if it gets below 0 degrees Celsius ( 32 Fahrenheit) so we don't have the salt on our roads.
For the seat I have a corbin seat fitted. Very comfortable even after 600km's (360miles) Only stopped for fuel. Only problem with it is it is cheaper to buy a new one than to get my old one recovered. When I had the rear tyre off to replace the tyre I had a look at the front sprocket and probably because it is nearly new I could see it was in good condition (with a torch). Perhaps I am biases as I love my triumph. Comfortable, classy, goes great and reliable, what more could you ask for?
Don't get me wrong I still want a new thunder bird! 1700cc and handles for a cruiser.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:26 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Ive got a 1992 Trident a couple of years back real cheap because she needed a sprag clutch and head gasket. Found these jobs easy to do and she hasnt been ill since!
great bike and great value.
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