Triumphrat

04-13-2005, 12:52 AM

Please put down your rubik's cubes because this puzzle is much much better (unless you are the owner of said bike)

I installed a Dynojet Stage 1 kit on my 1996 Speed Triple. Additionally I removed the airbox and replaced with the K&N Pod Air Filters. FYI-I already had a factory sebring 4-1 exhaust pipe.

I installed the jet kit exactly per the instructions and I can't get it to idle. The bike seems like a tiger above 3000 rpm, though, so I don't think it is a main jet issue.

I adjusted the mixture screws with a special tool (Motion Pro-$30 tool worked OK for me) but it never would idle no matter how these screws were adjusted. In fact, the bike's rough idle was barely touched by altering these screws.

I took the carbs apart again and blew them out and stuck wire in all the holes to make sure there were no clogs in the orifices (like the idle jet) so I don't think that's the problem.

Then I adjusted the floats in the float bowls but this just made the problem a little worse, if anything. The reason I adjusted the floats was that it was difficult to start and after many cranks I saw some fuel dripping out of the throats (through the air filters) of the carbs on cylinders 2 and 3.

If this helps anyone "in the know" I do get some backfiring on throttle relase from high RPM. Now that I adjusted the float bowls up, the bike is extemely hard to start, BUT this also may be due to dirty plugs from being too rich??? They are brand new plugs (* or were 5 minutes of running ago).

The factory settings say to have the carb slides attached to the needle at the FOURTH notch. Anyone say differently? Also, on the main jet I am running the 24's, which should be ideal with the pod filters and Sebring exhaust Again, the bike runs good at high rpm so I don't think this (main jet settings) should matter so much for idle problems, but if I knew everything, I wouldn't be posting this question to begin with :hammer: :???:

04-13-2005, 12:52 AM

Please put down your rubik's cubes because this puzzle is much much better (unless you are the owner of said bike)

I installed a Dynojet Stage 1 kit on my 1996 Speed Triple. Additionally I removed the airbox and replaced with the K&N Pod Air Filters. FYI-I already had a factory sebring 4-1 exhaust pipe.

I installed the jet kit exactly per the instructions and I can't get it to idle. The bike seems like a tiger above 3000 rpm, though, so I don't think it is a main jet issue.

I adjusted the mixture screws with a special tool (Motion Pro-$30 tool worked OK for me) but it never would idle no matter how these screws were adjusted. In fact, the bike's rough idle was barely touched by altering these screws.

I took the carbs apart again and blew them out and stuck wire in all the holes to make sure there were no clogs in the orifices (like the idle jet) so I don't think that's the problem.

Then I adjusted the floats in the float bowls but this just made the problem a little worse, if anything. The reason I adjusted the floats was that it was difficult to start and after many cranks I saw some fuel dripping out of the throats (through the air filters) of the carbs on cylinders 2 and 3.

If this helps anyone "in the know" I do get some backfiring on throttle relase from high RPM. Now that I adjusted the float bowls up, the bike is extemely hard to start, BUT this also may be due to dirty plugs from being too rich??? They are brand new plugs (* or were 5 minutes of running ago).

The factory settings say to have the carb slides attached to the needle at the FOURTH notch. Anyone say differently? Also, on the main jet I am running the 24's, which should be ideal with the pod filters and Sebring exhaust Again, the bike runs good at high rpm so I don't think this (main jet settings) should matter so much for idle problems, but if I knew everything, I wouldn't be posting this question to begin with :hammer: :???:

04-13-2005, 03:38 PM

You will find little or no help with a bike that old. I have a '95 speed triple and to all the questions I have asked, there just aren't that many of us out there.

In answer to your question, I bought a Two Brothers pipe about 5 years ago (5th anniversary of ownership) and then took it to a reputible dealer in the area to be jetted. No going! Nobody was able to get it right all the way. Either it wouldn't idle but would run strong or just the opposite. I tried the 2 available kits for my bike and 2 different shops. Both had dynos and said no prob., but I finnaly returned the kits and just had a friend set it the best we could with the factory needles and such. I wish you luck, and if you do get anything going I would love to hear what. Sorry if this is negative, but I thought you should know that you may be facing an unsolveable delima.

Timtiger · 04-13-2005, 06:31 PM

I put Dynojet jets in my old steamer Tiger. The reason I did this was because I HATE the airbox. I ride on dirt roads and it would clog up in a day. On this Tiger, the air intale sucks in from the wheel arch and only on one side as the other side is plugged. I actually took the rubber plug off and fitted unifilter pods (I forget the type but it is an angled one - about 45degrees) on each intake. I made up a polycarbonate shields to keep most of the crud off the filters. I left the standard filter in place and this basically gave me a 2 stage filtration system. I carried spare filters in a ziplock bag and could replace them in 5 minutes.
The most important thing is that it ran really well with good ecomony, good power, good idle and a nice smooth powercurve. I never had to replace the standard airbox/airfilter and saved a fortune.

I think your problem may be that that the jetting is just too far out. Some motors like an airbox as it gives the motor a bit of backpressure. Remove it and get what seems like nice unhindered airflow, may make the motor very unhappy.
I would bet an experienced race tuner with a dyno could get it running well, but maybe the simpler solution is to put the airbox back?
Why do you want pods?

Lurch · 04-13-2005, 09:39 PM

Here's my experience with my friend's bike:

1996 Trident 900 (same engine), Yoshimura 3-1 pipe, K&N filter in original air box, Dynojet stage 1 with the 124's IIRC, airscrews turned out 2 1/2. Bike runs like a banshee and sounds like the bomb.

You need to either change the pilot jets or put the stock airbox back on with a K&N filter.

I recommend the latter.

Lurch

tango · 04-14-2005, 04:57 AM

I've just had a very simmilar problem with my Trophy, It wouldn't idle properly and I couldn't get the carb's set up.
Turned out the choke wasn't going off fully and one of the coils was breaking down.

Might be worthwhile looking at these on your bike, you never know just might be the problem.

Good luck.

Windchill · 04-18-2005, 06:01 PM

I put a stage 1 kit into my 95 900 Daytona, initially with standard cans and the 120 mains. I have now fitted Scorpion cans (straight through) and she runs fine. I wonder though if I ought to put the 124 mains in? If I don't will she be too lean, if i do, will there be a gain? :???:

Windchill · 04-18-2005, 06:01 PM

I put a stage 1 kit into my 95 900 Daytona, initially with standard cans and the 120 mains. I have now fitted Scorpion cans (straight through) and she runs fine. I wonder though if I ought to put the 124 mains in? If I don't will she be too lean, if i do, will there be a gain? :???:

trypcil · 04-20-2005, 06:58 PM

Chances are with the pods your pilot circuit is now causing a leanness. There is as i remember an air jet and a fuel jet, the air jet as I remember is below the venturi on the air box side, the fueljet is in the float chamber. By going 'up a size' on the fuel jet you should improve idle(rich) - this will also require the idle mixture screw to be tweaked to gain best idle and response. Or, because the jet kit was designed to work with the stock airbox and perhaps the K&N filter insert, you may find going back to the airbox a quicker fix. Plus the stock airbox has certain benefits of air velocity and the such like that will affect torque. If you like to fiddle go ahead and mess with the pilot circuit but as already suggested dumping the pods and going back to the airbox is an easier fix. You may feel tempted to take the plenums and snorkels off - don't. By all means remove the foam inserts out from below the snorkels but thats all - again you will be wasting your time and there are no benefits to be had at all in futzing there. Some people have suggested drilling holes in the airbox behind the filter, perhaps that'll give some gains but also will require some pilot tweaking more than likely, and then you'd be better off just staying with the pods.Oh and shoving wire in jets to clean them is not a good idea, yes it often done but any scratches to jets will mess up their proper function - compressed air is the better option. Cleaning jets with an appropriate solvent to remove deposits is also a good idea - the thin film can and will affect their diameter and effectiveness - mixing and matching new with old dirty jets is also a no no and will adversely affect performance.Once you've gotten the idle sorted, return and check your mains as they feed the needle/emulsion tube system, you need to aim to have the needles in the middle to gain efficiency throughout the range. If you find yourself raising the needle (more than 2 positions) to richen the midrange you'll find that you'll loose elsewhere, so setting the mains is of great importance as there is a lot of over lap in the circuits. Or just get the bike over to your local dyno geezer to sort out! :hammer: :hammer: :hammer: The problem with dynos are that the people operating them often don't know how to interpret what going on with the graph, let alone know the idiosyncrasies of the bike in question, so find a shop that has race experience - they generally have the proper mind set to get the most from the bike - bon chance! :razz:

tridentt150v · 04-21-2005, 07:28 PM

I can solve your problem, get rid of your 4-1 sebring and buy a 3-1 system. You only have three cylinders.

[Yeah, I know, it's a typo!!]