Triumphrat

bobshields55 · 02-26-2005, 10:21 AM

Am polling for opinions as to using engine oil flush prior to draining the oil on our Triumph engines.

I have used it successfully in car engines in the past.

What do you think, is it a good thing, harmful, or not necessary.

Cheers

Bob :-D

MickMaguire · 02-26-2005, 10:38 AM

Speaking from experience (I worked in an engine shop for 5 years), don't use it.

At best it does nothing and at worst on a worn engine it will lower oil pressure and increase oil consumption. Some carbon buildup in an enigne is actually helpful. With modern oils and regular changes you shoudl never need to use this stuff.

The first and only time I ever tried it was in an old austin A35 when I was in my teens. The engine ran it's big end bearings and burnt out 2 valves 1500 miles later! Yes the engine was worn but it should have lasted longer and I am convinced after working in the engine shop and hearing many similar stories that the flush oil was at least partly to blame.

stevent · 02-26-2005, 12:16 PM

Years ago I used Slick 50 in a 305 Chev. engine w/185k miles on it. Very soon after it developed a knock. With those miles it's hard to say what caused it, but it was quiet before I put that crap in there.

The only thing I would put in an engine is oil. That other stuff is just Snake oil. Don't waste your time. :hammer:

bobshields55 · 02-27-2005, 06:08 AM

Mick and stevent

Thanks for the sound advice. I won't be using it no matter that another "old head" advised me to.

Cheers

Bob

shortys · 02-27-2005, 10:50 AM

The only "flushing" we do is: change oil and filter to the type oil we intend to run, crank it up and run it for about fifteen minutes, drain, change filter, add oil of same type. go. This when encountering engine with unknown history or if for some reason the oils have been mixed or run for a very long time (or stored) without a change when we get it. Can get expensive when dealing with 1400 hp diesels, but we do.

Stlakid · 03-04-2005, 05:37 AM

Most 'engine flush' products are simply solvent and they wash away lubrication from the bearings, hence the horror stories of ruined bearings and such. Another method that is kinder to the engine is to substitute 20% of the engine oil with transmission fluid. There is a high ammount of detergents in trans fluid. You should only run it for a couple of hundred miles then do the oil change to your normal oil and filter. I've left this in many car engines without any problems, but there is no clutch in there to contend with so to be safe I wouldn't leave it in there for an extended length just to be safe.

Stlakid · 03-04-2005, 05:37 AM

Most 'engine flush' products are simply solvent and they wash away lubrication from the bearings, hence the horror stories of ruined bearings and such. Another method that is kinder to the engine is to substitute 20% of the engine oil with transmission fluid. There is a high ammount of detergents in trans fluid. You should only run it for a couple of hundred miles then do the oil change to your normal oil and filter. I've left this in many car engines without any problems, but there is no clutch in there to contend with so to be safe I wouldn't leave it in there for an extended length just to be safe.

panda · 03-04-2005, 07:26 PM

If the engine has been in regular use with regular maintenance it wont need flushing. If its history is unknown, a regime of regular maintenace should be fine. If you know the engine to be dirty or not used for a while, you could change to an sg rated mineral diesel lubricating oil of the correct viscosity for 500-1000 miles then do another oil change to the type you want. I would advise strongly against using a thin 'flushing' oil. flush with cheap mineral oil (of the corerect viscosity). the sg rated oil has the highest content of antu wear properties and are very suitable for aircooled engines. Also any snake oil that read s contents may settle or shake the can before use -will- block the centrifugal sludge trap and wreck your big ends. thoase that claim to 'coat' such as ptfe compounds will coat allright.. coat the inside of your oil filter to reduce oil flow to your bearings. do not use any additive in your engine. It is not so crucial in separate gearboxes or diffs or for compnents which are greased. here additives may actually be helpful. Note for older bikes which would have been run on straight 30 or 40 grade oil, are better run on 20-50 or 15-50. all the multigrade nn-40 oils are too thin to protect the big end bearings when hot. ( 80f or above) This may not happen in the uk

panda · 03-04-2005, 07:26 PM

If the engine has been in regular use with regular maintenance it wont need flushing. If its history is unknown, a regime of regular maintenace should be fine. If you know the engine to be dirty or not used for a while, you could change to an sg rated mineral diesel lubricating oil of the correct viscosity for 500-1000 miles then do another oil change to the type you want. I would advise strongly against using a thin 'flushing' oil. flush with cheap mineral oil (of the corerect viscosity). the sg rated oil has the highest content of antu wear properties and are very suitable for aircooled engines. Also any snake oil that read s contents may settle or shake the can before use -will- block the centrifugal sludge trap and wreck your big ends. thoase that claim to 'coat' such as ptfe compounds will coat allright.. coat the inside of your oil filter to reduce oil flow to your bearings. do not use any additive in your engine. It is not so crucial in separate gearboxes or diffs or for compnents which are greased. here additives may actually be helpful. Note for older bikes which would have been run on straight 30 or 40 grade oil, are better run on 20-50 or 15-50. all the multigrade nn-40 oils are too thin to protect the big end bearings when hot. ( 80f or above) This may not happen in the uk

Christov · 03-07-2005, 09:18 PM

I would recommend against it. If you are using a synthetic based oil in your engine, and are changing it on a regular basis, you are doing more than most. I would not want any product to dilute the oil in the top end and crankcase. Yes, it will drain quicker, but will also dilute the fresh oil upon mixture. Also it will wash away the lubricant on your cams....which makes for a metal on metal grind upon startup. Undiluted old dirty oil will lubricate better than clean diluted oil. Your oil filter will sort things out. Let it do its job, and you do yours...Ride that thing!!!!