Triumphrat

ckassen

What is causing my ECM to fry, i went 17,000 miles on one and then 2000 on this last one. I was just cruising down the freeway at about 80mph and the bike just shut off. There just went my 2nd ECM. What causes this, a bad regulator??????Help is greatly appreciated....And I am wondering if this is because of the daytona motor??????
Thanks,
John

Diego

> And I am wondering if this is because of the daytona motor??????

Not really sure what you mean by that. Might be good to give us some details of your ride.

The logical suspect would indeed be excess voltage. Who replaced the module last time, and did they check the electrical system then?

Has anyone checked the module itself this time, for that matter, or are you assuming it's a repeat of the earlier problem? As I'm sure you know, other parts of the circuit can also cause abrupt, unexpected shutdowns as well, such as a bad crankshaft position sensor, bad kill switch, defective wiring or connector, etc.

__________________
John

ckassen

When my bike had 9000 miles on it, a bearing on the crank locked up and snapped a connecting rod...I then purchased a 2002 daytona engine(40 more hp) and installed it. I installed it myself and wired it myself. It was not that difficult, there were only different connectors for the coils and that was about it. But after talking to a few mechanics around my area, I am going to look over the wiring AGAIN, and if i cannot find anything which I dont think that I am going to be able to, I am going to put a fuse box inbetween the wiring harness and the ECM, so that way it should blow a fuse instead of the ECM. And that way I will be able to find the wire that is causing the problem. And yes I am %100 positive that the ECM is bad, the EXACT same things are happening this time as what happened last time. No fuel pump, no CEL light when ignition is on, no spark, injectors not firing.....And if these things happen to anybody that is reading--most likely your ECM is bad....If anybody could tell me what strength of fuses to put on what wire it would be great....I replaced the ECM, and I did check the wiring, everything seemed ok....
Thanks,
John

ckassen

One question, how many wire are supposed to supply power to the ECM? I have a wiring diagram and believe that there are two, but I could be wrong. Because i still need to make sure that I am getting power to the ECM, because the effects of a bad ECM also apply to a disconnected ECM. But, my last question, the ECM to fry, what would cause it to fry, besides an obvious over load of power. Would it most likely be through what? coils or even a ground on the other side of the ecm? A ground that the ecm controls like the injector that suddenly puts power to the ECM? All I know is that no fuses are getting blown....

Diego

> One question, how many wire are supposed to supply power to the ECM? I have a wiring diagram and believe that there are two, but I could be wrong.

This is where it would be helpful to know what model and year your bike is. In general, though, two wires is correct: one through the ignition switch to boot up the module, and one through a power hold-on relay to enable it to perform its shutdown functions after you turn off the key.

> ...i still need to make sure that I am getting power to the ECM, because the effects of a bad ECM also apply to a disconnected ECM.

That is exactly right! All the things you listed as symptoms also apply if power is not getting to the unit.

Incidentally, this is why I would not insert a fuse in line with the ECM. Fuses do not act quickly enough to protect solid-state devices; by the time enough excess current is drawn to blow the fuse, the damage is already done. (The only reason to fuse a solid-state device is if its shorting out would cause excess current to be drawn elsewhere in the circuit, and that's clearly not the problem here.) In addition, fuses don't do anything to prevent overvoltage conditions, if that's what's causing the faulures. And, they add more physical contact points that could corrode or vibrate, thus reducing overall reliability of power to the module. No real protection and too many downsides in this case.

> But, my last question, the ECM to fry, what would cause it to fry, besides an obvious over load of power.

Individual outputs of an engine control module can be damaged by excess current flow in their own individual circuits (ie, if an injector, or the wiring to it, short-circuits so that the full 12 volts is present at the port without the resistance of the injector in series to limit current). However, this would generally disable only the one port and would result in an error code.

Assuming it's not just a dreadful coincidence that both units failed prematurely due to "natural causes," there are only a handful of things that will take them down so completely. I've listed them in roughly descending order of likelihood that you will encounter them:

* overvoltage, either consistently high from the power source, or transient voltage spikes on any lines into or out of the module
* heat buildup
* extremely powerful radio-frequency fields
* ionizing radiation; a good thing to avoid just on general principle
* electromagnetic pulse (EMP) as from an extremely close lightning strike, or a nuclear detonation; sure hope you haven't been near any of those!

In conection with RF fields, modern engine management systems are protected well enough that riding past radio or TV stations will not have any effect. That may not be true of high-power military radar installations, however, or if you park right beside certain industrial equipment that uses high power RF energy. In fact, there have been companies trying to get approval to sell equipment to law enforcement that can burn out the electronics of cars and motorcycles with extreme levels of RF energy, and thus force them to stop. They could zap your vehicle and taser you, all in the same traffic stop...such fun.

I recommend first seeing if you do have voltage to the unit at both places where power should be applied, then checking voltages very carefully under all conditions of charging, and doublechecking that coil situation. Keep us posted on what you find.

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John

ckassen

I apologize, it is a 2000 Sprint RS with a 2002 Daytona motor.

I have talked to a few different mechanics and they all said that it is probably a voltage spike. The last few things that you listed are pretty much out of the question for my case. I never drive through industrial areas, or anyplace even close. And when I pulled over after bike bike stopped, the ecm was cold, or not hot....

Another question, could this spike, I guess I could call it, be happening at alot of different times but this time it finally just blew the ecm? or would it most likely blow it the first time. Because when I drive at a steady 4450 rmp=75mph for over a minute or two and the bike will like misfire or something and the check engine light will come on and then just go right back off, this will happen every five minutes or so if I stay at like 74-76mph. I was thinking maybe a somewhat messed up crankshaft pos. sensor, but the dealership said that nothing was coming up on the computer when they checked it. Another thing, the tach bounces every once in a while, randomly. And I have never found the reason why it does this either...

ckassen

Here are two links to wiring diagram & key for 00RS

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...ingdiagram.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...ssen/RSkey.jpg

Diego

> Another question, could this spike, I guess I could call it, be happening at a lot of different times but this time it finally just blew the ecm?

It is indeed possible. The additional symptoms you listed definitely do suggest that might be the case, in fact.

I'm thinking that there is an intermittent connection somewhere in the wiring... something coming unearthed momentarily when a particular vibration occurs, or an intermittent short under the same circumstance that causes a reverse-voltage condition on some pin of the ECM.

I will ruminate over your wiring diagram for a while and see if I can come up with some suggestions for likely places to check.

__________________
John

ckassen

If you look at the diagram. #40-main power relay. You can see 2 pink & brown (NK) wires coming out. Should they be hot when ignition is on?

ckassen

Nevermind, the two NK wires are only hot when the yellow and brown(YN) wire is hot and the YN wire is only hot when the ECM is plugged in...So now that for sure know that the ECM is bad.......