Triumphrat

robertv36

Just had my Sceptre Exhaust installed by the dealer, and they sound awesome. Diffidently notice the gains coming home! Before I always knew when I was pushing 70 to 80 mph, but after installing the new pipes, I found myself doing 90 mph with room to spare.

I know this has been asked a million times before and if you could point me to the answers I would greatly appreciate it. Here is the problem(s):

Day one: Leaving the dealer, not a single problem (maybe it was due to the grin on my face!)

Day two: The next morning as I attempted to head out for the day.

1. Starting the bike when cold:
- Applying the choke in any position (quarter, half, full, etc.) the bike will not start
- With no choke it tries to start but does not run on it's own or for very run long
- Workaround: Applying no choke and turning the throttle a quarter turn the bike starts, and by revving the engine a few times it will (catch and) stay running

2. While on the road after its been properly warmed up:
- When starting off from a stop, changing to 3rd gear and applying throttle to gain speed the engine will hesitate
- Workaround: Release the throttle so that it will return to the start position and reapply the throttle

2a. When coming to a stop at a light or intersection:
- When down shifting or even just applying the clutch and using all break the engine with cut off
- Workaround: Restart the engine (Sometimes it will start up right away, but most of the time it takes 2 or 3 tries.)

3. While riding, the engine makes more of a shuffling scrapping sound
- Workaround: Unknown

4. Popping when de-accelerating
- Workaround: Ride it out...

According to the dealer they re-jetted the carburetors, but haven't provided the spec's yet of what they did. As stated, no other modifications other than AI removal, the Sceptre's, and "re-jetting".

Any clues of what I should be expecting from the dealer to fix this.

Thanks,

Rob

PS: Modifications baseline: AI removed, Sceptre Exhaust Pipes, no changes to the air box, including leaving the snorkel attached
Other information: 2007 Triumph Speedmaster, 2 weeks old with already a 1000 miles. I ride it almost everyday for both commute and leisure, with most of the miles being either highway or the back roads. And it's kept in the garage. I always put in 90+ octane gasoline. Before the modifications the bike started up right away, nor had any other mechanical problems.

zimtok

Popping while deceleration is caused by a lean mix on the idle screws.

Being lean seems to fall into some of the other problems as well.


I don't know enough about this subject to comment more as I am still running stock drilled out pipes and only adjusted my idle screws out to 2.5 turns to get rid of the popping I had.

__________________
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Not that there isn't more to it than this, but what grade of gas is called for in the owner's manual? Higher octane isn't necessarily better.

Cheers,
-Kit

Shoramite

This might help you, well its an option,

My spec

sceptre's
AI removed
uni filter
snorkle left in place
122 main jet
48 pilot jet
balanced carbs
02 mixture 3.5

I had simlar problem but i know the mixture was good, the jetting with the above knowledge just puts the power in diffrent places in the rev range.

The bike was running lean after a few miles, after scratching my head for ages and getting p----d off with the motor cutting out i did a strange thing and loosend my fuel cap, hey the bike worked a treat so off the the dealer amd got my cap replaced and i have never looked back the bike is very good indeed, no poping stalling, but please make sure the above specs as far as carb balance and o2 levels are correct.

hope this helps.

robertv36

Talked with Victor over at Team Triumph, and he's suggesting 122/42/1.5 - 1.75 turns.

The funny part is that the local bike shops don't seem to carry the jets and mains I need. But Team Triumph is coming through with sending me the parts free of charge. All I have to do is swap the old with the new. Something to be said for a company that supports their product even if I bought it from someone else!

Once I pop them in, I'll give an update!

robertv36

After much delay, I found the parts needed to re-jet the carbs. I'll spare you the details, but lets just say HD had them.

The jet kit that comes with the pipes are 122's and 45's. After opening it up, I found that the dealer did leave in the 122's, so only thing I need to replace was the pilots with the 42's. So following Pat's instructions: http://www.dinqua.com/Triumph/carbs1.html I did just that. Besides some of the tool sizes being off, the guide is awesome. It took me about 3 hours to complete. Could have been faster, but I wanted to make sure I didn't leave anything to chance.

The results? No more stalls, hard starts, backfires on deceleration, no flat spots when accelerating in the lower gears. Apparently the 40's the dealer popped in were too restrictive.

Lessons learned: Get the "D" tool first, or just replace the "D" screw with a knob version. I got mine from http://www.newspeedmaster.com/html/i...re_screws.html Wherever you get them, make sure the is pair made specifically for your bike. The HD's and Japanese versions seem to be way different. I did it with a screw driver, and it works Ok, but you can't make the fine adjustments as easily.

The second lesson, get a carb sync tool. The bikes apart, and you've made changes to the carb, so might as well make sure they're in sync. If I had known about it, I would have gotten a CarbMate instead of a manometer. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/carbmate/
:-D

robertv36

Does anyone know of a good set of instructions with pictures to replace the "D" screws with the thumb screw version?

It seems straight up. Look out for the springs, washers and o-rings, etc. But I wanted to see if there was a pictorial already out there. If not, I was going to put one together and submit to Pat's website.

robertv36

Ok, replacing the idle mixture d-type screw was easy to replace with the thumbed version. All without remove the gas tank or carbs.

Went out and bought the 90 degree wrench from Motion Pro. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...1-4_hex_driver
which includes slot and phillips. But most importantly, the d-type head!

1. Majority of the work is done on the right side of the bike. Backed off the d-type screws using the wrench.
2. As many instructions inform you. Go slow, and have something underneath the carbs to catch any falling parts.
3. Remember the order of the parts on the idle mixture screw: spring - washer - o-ring. You'll need them to put on the thumbed versions.
4. Put the scring/washer/o-ring from the old screws to the thumb screws.
5. Carefully screw in the thumb screws until they can't go in any further.
6. Back them off according to your setup. For mine with AI removed, Sceptre Exhaust Pipes, no changes to the air box, the snorkel removed, its 1.5 turns.
7. I marked one side of the thumb screw with a black marker to count the revolutions, and marked the carbs accordingly.
8. Take it out for a test drive!

Thats it. Easy as pie!