|
I just replaced one as well. Take off and repair one fork at a time to avoid messing with the headlight and mounts. Before taking it off, loosen the cap (preload cap base). Makes it a lot easier by doing this in advance. Remove all preload first.
There is a through bolt that comes out through the axle hole (you'll see it). I didn't make or use a tool to hold the nut inside the fork, but used an impact gun.
The Triumph manual doesn't call for loc-tite, but I used some anyhow (I used the light color -- light torque). If you loosen the bolt versus taking it out first you will be able to drain the oil completely (set the fork end in a small bucket/pan and let it drain, then pump it to drain what you can out). This helps clean the bolt passage as well. You'll need a 10 mm allen wrench (I used a cheap one and cut off the arm as it needed to be long and a 10 mm socket to turn it; I have also used bolts with double nuts on the far end for similar needs).
Seperate the two halves, look for any burrs/dents/dimples in the fork. Remove the dust seal (take care here and you can re-use it) with a large screwdriver (across the top to lift it off of the fork enought ot get around the edge). Work the retaining ring out with a small/med screwdriver (easy to do).
Then remove the seal. Easiest to do if you can heat the fork leg. I used a heat gun, as this doesn't cause any fear and loathing versus a propane torch (I've done it that way too). Any heat gun should be fine (paint, heat shrink, etc). Be careful what you use for your pry bar as a sharp edge can ding the edge of your fork (mostly a cosmetic issue; file off any edge extending into the bore -- use usual cleaning efforts to avoid filings falling in).
Clean the seal area, including the area behind it.
I used a flat nosed punch to install the seal, but using a piece of plastic pipe (remember to look at the electrical area of your hardware store if the plumbing area doesn't have anything suitable). Replace the locking ring (the seal has to be seated below it -- that's how you can tell if it is seated far enough).
Finish reversing the disassembly process. Don't forget to lube the fork tube before sliding it in. Measure your oil with the spring out. You'll need to pump the fork a few times to get the air out of it, then measure again. You shouldn't need more than one quart for both.
I use 10 weight oil in mine, as I found that the stock 5 weight wasn't enough. Though I used fork oil, ATF is highly refined (usually synthetic) 10 weight hydraulic oil and used to be the standard for fork oil (plus it is already designed to help keep seals in shape).
Also, don't forget to align your forks before hitting the road (set the wheel facing forward, loosen the top triple clamp bolts, pump the front end a couple of times with the brake applied, carefully tighten the top bolts so the trees don't move).
Nothing difficult, just do it in order. The 3/4" square stock can probably also be bought at Lowes Depot.
[ This message was edited by: Mojoinco on 2007-05-06 17:03 ]
__________________
Yee-haaaaa!
|
Linear Mode
