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Maintenance & Workshop Talk The central area for general maintenance, trouble-shooting and modifications ------------ (Other technical forums on the site are model specific)

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Old 10-08-2006, 11:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
Bearnold2
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Well my first "issue" since purchasing my 2002 S4. The bike had been riding incredible, then one night i park it in the garage for the night, come back the next day and the battery is DEAD. Charged the battery and it started right up, the only problem was that the "check engine light" was on. I thought it was a bad battery. Changed the battery, light still on. Thought it was the charging system, but the voltage is fine and it is charging properly. I did checked my coolant overflow tank it there was nothing in it, not even close to "min". So i am going to fill it tomorrow when i can buy the right coolant. Here is the question! I know there are a million things that can cause the engine light to come on, but is the coolant level one of them? Any ideas?? I just don't want to take it to the dealer just yet, $89 an hour!!! and the guy that is "quallified" doesn't have too good of a history working on Triumphs. not just yet...Thanks everyone...
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Old 10-09-2006, 12:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You may have blown a diode (to ground) in your regulator/rectifier. It will still charge on the other two phases, but discharge when sitting. Try charging the battery and then unplug the rect./reg and let it sit. If it doesn't then discharge, you have found the problem.
Or, if you have a Volt Ohm meter, disconnect the hot (+) lead from the battery, and with everything off, place the positive lead from the meter on the battery + terminal and the neg. lead on the battery + cable terminal. If you get a reading, you likely have a bad rect/reg.
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Old 10-09-2006, 01:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The check engine light is on because the ECU lost constant power. It will reset itself after 3 complete heating cycles. That means heat up to the point of the fan coming on and back down to under 110F.
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Old 10-09-2006, 02:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Well it wasn't the battery directly. It was the electrical system. More specifically it was a small electrical fire at a bad connection. It looks like the ground wire shorted and completely melted the conectors and one of the ground wire is completely dissolved. It is the first connection coming out of the stator and connecting to the main wire harnest. Before I bought the bike the previous owner had an issue with oil getting in the air box and leaking everywhere. There was a bad seal somewhere. Well he fixed it but the oil had already done it's damage. The wires under the tank are covered in oil. And the burnt connectors are covered in it. So problem found! But how in the world am I going to replace the male and female connectors without replacing the main harnest. Do they sell just the connectors, or i could buy the OEM harnest for $300+. I think i will splice some wires and make it work. Any ideas?
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Old 09-09-2007, 03:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Engine light

Thanks for this post. I also had this problem after fitting an intercom and letting the battery go dead. I followed your advice and the problem is sorted.
They ought to put this info in the workshop manuals. All they say is take it to a dealer. This has saved me a bucket full of dosh. Cheers!!!



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The check engine light is on because the ECU lost constant power. It will reset itself after 3 complete heating cycles. That means heat up to the point of the fan coming on and back down to under 110F.
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Old 09-10-2007, 01:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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> They ought to put this info in the workshop manuals.

They do. It may not be readily apparent unless you've had some experience with ECU error codes before; but if you glance at the list of codes in most Triumph shop manuals, you'll see that there is a code for electrical system undervoltage, and it's one of many that reset after the fault has been cleared for three full operating cycles.
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Old 08-10-2008, 11:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Old post new question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak

The check engine light is on because the ECU lost constant power. It will reset itself after 3 complete heating cycles. That means heat up to the point of the fan coming on and back down to under 110F.


You state that it must go thru 3 'complete' operating cycles, with fan starting. Do I need to ride it until it gets hot so the fan starts, or will it work with just 3 medium to long rides? The only way my fan starts is if I'm caught in traffic. Another way I have heard is if I just start the bike, don't touch the throttle, let it idle until the fan starts then shut if off. That will work. The reason I am asking is because I just changed my regulator and the light was on when it went bad, but it is still on after replacing it.
Thanks for any help
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Old 08-10-2008, 02:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The fan doesn't have to come on. Start it, get it to normal operating temps (about 180 or so on my Daytona), and then stop and let it cool down fully. Doing this three times reset the engine light after my battery went bad several months ago.
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for that info. It shouldn't take too long today, the engine is already at 95deg just sitting here today.
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