Triumphrat

S1loki · 10-24-2012, 10:42 PM

Nice switches but kinda pricey.

I am adding heated grips to my 02 Trophy. Wanted to keep the factory look, i.e. the rocker switch.

For those that want to know. The factory switch is a Carling SPDT with a Contura II soft rubber Actuator. Which starts with the part V6DA, which means it is a on-off-on non lighted switch.

Being as I am adding some switched accessories, I thought the switches should look alike. Yet be identifiable as to what they do.

For the grip switch I am reusing the existing rocker(actuator) and lighting it. With a new Carling switch #V1D2GHNB-00000-000. (all those zeros mean is that it comes with no rocker) This will illuminate the grip symbol(glow green) on the rocker when wired. It will also have an amber glow when the switch is activated.

I will be adding three other switches to the left panel. One for the fan over-ride, another for aux lighting and a last to cut out the HID lights while starting and idling.

I will post pics and part #s as I go. This ought to be a bit fun for me...

S1loki · 10-27-2012, 07:21 PM

Well I got started this afternoon. I think Ill do this via pic and descriptions.

S1loki · 10-28-2012, 02:36 AM

let me see if it works this time

The parts: Consisting of three SPST and one new SPDT, the existing rocker for the grip heater, three new soft rockers(to match the stocker) and the rocker removal tool

S1loki · 10-28-2012, 02:43 AM

with this one: hopefully you can see the stock rocker(center), the new soft rocker(top) and the hard rocker(bottom). The grip heater legend is an actual Carling part number. The new rockers will allow the big white square to be illuminated as a panel light. The small slit will show the switch being activated(or on).

S1loki · 10-28-2012, 02:52 AM

The black panels are switch plates from a marine shop for boat consoles using the Contura style switches. I merely wanted to use them for layout and spacing of the switches. The installed switch is the factory position for the grip heater switch. I was going back n forth over switch layouts. Three in the top row with the center in the lower. The other option was to the center and right positions in the two rows.
I actually went with the third option. Three n the top and two in the lower.

S1loki · 10-28-2012, 02:54 AM

the panel has been cut and switch bodies fitted. I am going to put a blank in the last opening.

S1loki · 10-28-2012, 02:59 AM

With the rockers installed. Finding out that one rocker was not quite right. Showing the rocker removal tool in use.

S1loki · 10-28-2012, 03:01 AM

One last addition to the left side panel was a Powerlet outlet. In an easy out of the way spot for my tank bag power feed.

S1loki · 10-28-2012, 03:09 AM

The three new switches are for:

1) Radiator Fan Switch Bypass
2) Aux Driving Lights
3) Headlight Cut Out (save wear and tear on the HID ballasts when starting)
4) empty position may never get used, but its ready to drop a switch into it.

Wiring is next...

Why use this style switch? Ease of manipulation, looks factory, water and dust resistant.

S1loki · 10-28-2012, 10:07 PM

will post pics tomorrow of the panel installed on the Trophy. The wiring aint as clean as I would like it to be. It will suffice for the time being though. The factory loom was left alone as much as is possible.

As a side note. I prior to this had run a set of twelve gauge wires (pos/neg) from the battery to the right fairing pocket. There is a two post terminal board mounted to the aft wall under the fairing. From here a matching pair of 14 gauge wires that transfer to the same spot on the left fairing pocket.

My HID ballasts draw power from the 12g connection point. My rad fan now draws power independent of the bike original wiring. The factory wiring and switch now only control a relay. The aux driving lights are completely independent of the factory wiring. Another change was to feed the horn direct from the battery. The factory horn ckt now controls a horn relay.

To get switched power for the new switches illumination. I used the switched hot(black/yellow) from the alarm connector. The "on" indication is powered controlled relay(fan/aux lite/HID). The heated grip wiring will be completely stock factory.

While under the skin this time.... I figured out what was draining my battery. I had wired the power ckt for my temp gauge to the unused AUX power connector. Ooops! not a switched ckt. Fixed that one.