Triumphrat

RensFunHog · 10-10-2009, 02:20 AM

I am looking for tips on removing minor rust and then sealing your fuel tank. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks.

1967 Truimph Sport Tiger (T100C)

BombFactory · 10-10-2009, 01:55 PM

If you take the tank to a radiator shop, they can boil it out and remove any debris that will cause issues (flaking rust, old sealant, gas varnish, etc). If there is a little surface rust left, you can mix a 0.5:1 ratio muriatic acid and water solution and slosh it around to etch the steel; then rinse the tank out very well with water. I'm not sure if you are familiar with muriatic acid, but it is some extremely volatile stuff. Don't inhale close to the stuff, wear gloves and safety glasses, don't get it on any paint, and don't get any on concrete or masonry. It will etch just about anything.

I know a couple people who have seen good results when using Por15 fuel tank sealant.

ocguyocguy · 10-10-2009, 03:20 PM

I have used regular household type WHITE Vinegar to remove rust, it seems to BLAST off the rust and leaves good metal alone, it is just the WHITE vinegar type you get at the grocery store, safe and cheap, use undilluted let it sit in the tank over night or days longer if needed works great on all kinds of rust on tools/parts too...don't use it for cooking after soaking...LOL
There are lots of tank sealers...Por15 products are good but I have used CREEM and guys will complain it didn't work but my experience is FOLLOW the instructions and it works great and most motorcycle shops carry it but DO FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND get the full clean and prep kit with sealer do not JUST the sealer by itself that is why most have problems they do not prep the inside of the tank for sealing...

KitNYC · 10-11-2009, 03:47 AM

I've heard both horror and success stories about both Creem and POR-15, but most of what I've heard has been horror stories about Creem and success stories about POR-15.

I never got around to using either, as my Trident's motor seized and I ended up replacing it with a bike that has the best solution of all: a plastic tank!

Cheers,
-Kit

ocguyocguy · 10-11-2009, 11:55 AM

You can not go wrong with Por15. Far availability I used Creem since the bike shop has it, oddly I have some Por15 sitting in my garage waiting for the next project but I have not used it yet but I do know Por15 has great products BUT you probably need to order it and have it shipped, Creem is usually in the bike shops...if your in no rush get Por15 but again the prep is everything...the white vinegar will work great.

Beemie · 10-13-2009, 11:17 PM

You might count on the sealer coming off and plugging up the system.

You are working blind and one tiny bit of debris, moisture or other contaminant will be where it all starts.

Been there. So have several others that I know.

I'll never have a sealed tank again.

BombFactory · 10-14-2009, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beemie

You might count on the sealer coming off and plugging up the system.

You are working blind and one tiny bit of debris, moisture or other contaminant will be where it all starts.

Been there. So have several others that I know.

I'll never have a sealed tank again.

I argue that if you make sure to get any old debris out, use muriatic acid to etch the metal for about two minutes, make sure the inside dries completely (leaving the tank in the sun for a day or two), and follow the sealer's directions, there will not be a problem. In any event, the tank filter and inline fuel filter (if running one) will catch any debris before it gets into the fuel lines and beyond.

I also argue that white vinegar, though capable of lightly etching metal, is not course enough to clean/etch the metal for good sealant adhesion; this, however, comes down to preference more than anything.

ocguyocguy · 10-14-2009, 01:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BombFactory

I also argue that white vinegar, though capable of lightly etching metal, is not course enough to clean/etch the metal for good sealant adhesion; this, however, comes down to preference more than anything.

No arguement, white vinegar works well but was just a suggestion for light rust removal only, to use for tanks, tools, bolts, what have you...it does work great at removing rust but the beauty it does not etch metal, to etch metal and then seal then follow what ever sealant directions you may have, most require an etching agent of some kind but with out proper prep which is time consuming it is a waist of time to seal. It has worked well for me with old tanks I could not replace but wanted to save, heck even our new Triumph tanks are sealed/coated and I agree if some sealant flakes off oh well the filter better catch it...

ocguyocguy · 10-14-2009, 01:30 AM

I would add that if you are "scrubbing" alot of crap off the inside of the tank put some nuts and bolts inside with the cleaning solution to help "scrub",,,it's also very fun to get those nuts and bolts out again...LOL

mglemans86 · 10-14-2009, 03:01 PM

I'm about to do the tank on my Norton, It's a fiberglass tank and the new gas formulations are attacking it (Ethanol). The latest "Norton News" has a nice writeup on do's and dont's of the process. He used http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm. This is a 2 part epoxy and is very chemical resistant.