Triumphrat

Have had the rattling noise on 95 Tbird and after reading all the discussion took it apart. Found the bolt on the driveshaft on the clutch side broke. Ordered the updated shaft and bolt. The bolt on the alternator side was ok, but driveshaft wanted to pull out, which indicated problem under the clutch cover. Thanks for the help on locating this problem.

Have had the rattling noise on 95 Tbird and after reading all the discussion took it apart. Found the bolt on the driveshaft on the clutch side broke. Ordered the updated shaft and bolt. The bolt on the alternator side was ok, but driveshaft wanted to pull out, which indicated problem under the clutch cover. Thanks for the help on locating this problem.

Have had the rattling noise on 95 Tbird and after reading all the discussion took it apart. Found the bolt on the driveshaft on the clutch side broke. Ordered the updated shaft and bolt. The bolt on the alternator side was ok, but driveshaft wanted to pull out, which indicated problem under the clutch cover. Thanks for the help on locating this problem.

EdC

Let me get this straight, this bolt that comes loose is on the end of the alternator shaft ( the very end towards the engind ) ? I'm just asking because I was just looking at the parts manual for the alternator and I didn't see any bolts on the end of the alternator shaft. I'm going to pull mine this weekend because i have this vibration too.

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Ed

SWare

There is a bolt at both ends of the shaft. The replacement parts would be a shaft that is hollow with one long bolt and nut. Supposedly failure of these bolts is uncommon but it seems a pretty common thread on this board. If you are lucky the problem will only be the bolt holding the impeller to the alternator.

shedds

the problem youre talking about is that only on the pre 2000 models or all, reason i ask is i have a 2001 t bird and was just wondering if i should be aware of this

EdC

I ws just looking in my Haynes manual. On page 2-54, section 32.5 it states the following ;

" The method of securing the alternator drive gear and shock absorber housing has been modified. On models up to VIN 56684 the drive gear and housing are retained by bolts which thread into the driveshaft. On models from VIN 56685, both components are retained by a single throughbolt which passes through the drivegear, driveshaft, and housing, and is secured by a nut. "

My 98 has a VIN above 60000 so according to Haynes I should have the throughbolt. The rattling noise that I hear starts at around 1500 rpm and goes away when I get past 2500 rpm. This past weekend, I held a mechanics stethescope against the alternator cover and it sounds like the noise is coming from the alternator. These bikes do make alot of noise so maybe what I'm hearing is normal. I guess I won't know for sure until I pull the alternator.

The Haynes manual also states that the throughbolt should be replaced every time it is disturbed. Maybe this could be a precaution because of past problems......I don't know.

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Ed

Is this any use?
ALTERNATOR RATTLE

EdC

Thanks Terry. I was hoping to find an exploded view diagram of my alternator. This bulletin will be VERY useful. And now that I've read this, I seem to remember that sometimes when I'm stopped at a traffic light I get a noise that goes away when I squeeze my brake lever.

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Ed

SWare

If you have the later model shaft/bolt then the impeller bolt described in the above link is the most likely cause.
These are noisy motors but, if the noise mostly occurs in the RPM range you describe; at idle it goes away when you load the alternator (like with the brake light); then you probably have some form of this problem.

Stan