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Old 05-09-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Suspension settings

Hey guys

Just another "stupid" kind of question.

My TBS seems to be set up for the "firm" ride. However in my opinion the front end still "dives" under braking. I am 200 lbs.

Stupid questions
1. On the front spring pre load. By screwing the nut clockwise to allow more lines to be seen actually softens the suspension?? I had to do a double take on this. Screwing clockwise always makes me thing of "firming" things up. Mine is set to show 4 lines. This should be pretty firm??

On all of my adjustments where you count the "clicks" from fully clockwise. When fully screwed in each adjuster will sound the initial click almost straight away as you begin to screw anti clockwise. Is this still counted as a proper click??

Told you they were stupid.

Thanks for any clarification

Tomsdad
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Old 05-09-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Old 05-09-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks, but I had already been there. It just replicates the info in the manual.

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Old 05-09-2008   #4 (permalink)
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I'm about 220-230lbs (maybe more, but not too much).
Dives?
I think it must a little. To absorb smooth Irish roads.
Last front fork service was done by mechanic not familar with TBS, so i have front compresion full on (screw on to the end, not sure about fork oil level it may be bit higher), rebound damping 4, sprig preload 5, rear 4 and 4.
Bike hard. Once i tried bit more, then bike get "wooden".
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Old 05-11-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Have you tried heavier fork oil in addition to more preload?
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Old 05-12-2008   #6 (permalink)
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TBS Suspension Settings

On the front preload, the 27mm nut is the fork cap and should be tight. the 17mm adjuster (with only two flats) is the preload adjuster and as you turn it clockwise, fewer lines should show, and the preload is increased.

The screw in the top is the rebound damping, and the one in the lower fork leg is for compression damping. Clockwise increases the amount of damping and you should always count clicks from full one turning counterclockwise. Under the cap, there is a specific setting for how far the preload adjuster is threaded onto damper rod tube, with a lock nuts to hold it in place.

Here's a couple of good reference articles:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/tbird/fork/ (changing fork oil)

http://www.triumphnet.com/st/acc/racetech/setup.htm (setting suspension sag).

I hope this helps.
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Old 05-12-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Well I told you it was stupid.

You got it right on. I was looking at the big 27mm nut (thats what the arrow in the haynes manual picture seemed to point to), thinking this can't be right.

Adjusted everything now back to factory stock settings. Previous owner had adjusted pre load right down but left everything else alone.

Bike works pretty good now. A good starting point to make small adjustments from.

Thanks for your help.

Tomsdad
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Old 05-12-2008   #8 (permalink)
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FYI - typical factory settings for a bike are set up for a rider that is 160 lbs to 180 lbs. If you are heavier (or lighter) than this, your suspension probably needs adjusting. You should also firm up the rear a bit when you carry a passenger.
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