Triumphrat

Woody1911a1

so the legend is green and trophy blue ?

"I put a photo in my album that is an end view of the Legend (green) cam versus the Trophy (blue) cam. (Clicky below!)" ?

confused , i'm getting very conflicting answers doing a search here . seems a search for green cams brings up many saying they're modifying their t-birds by installing green cams .

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jimmyj900

Good you pointed that out! I'm know I'm guilty of getting the two confused.... 'blue' and 'green' are lousy reference points for a discussion, especially since the 'blue' dot on the end of the cams looks pretty 'green' when it's been exposed to motor oil for a while.

From now on I'll try to refer to the 211 cams for the Classics 'blue' and the 251 cams for the Trophy/Sprint cams. Hopefully that will make some more sense and avoid the mistakes.

Jim

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polex

I checked the valve clearance because I supposed that the cylinder 3 Inlet valve clearance was too close.
I disassembled the cylinder head cover and I found a unexpected situation.
The valve clearance of the cylinder 3 was OK and I found 3 valve clearance too close.
Cylinder 1 Exhaust : right .102mm, left: .127 (.15-.20)
Cylinder 2 Exhaust : right .178mm, left: .152 (OK)
Cylinder 3 Exhaust : right .178mm, left: .152 (OK)

Cylinder 1 Inlet : right is less than .102mm, left: .102 (.10-.15)
Cylinder 2 Inlet : right .102mm, left: .102 (OK)
Cylinder 3 Inlet : right .127mm, left: .127 (OK)

The camshafts had some blue (OEM) signs. I posted a photo on my album.
All parts seems to be in stock then I will adjust the valve and I will focus on the carburetor and ignition for solving the black spark plug on cylinder 3.
For adjusting the valve clearance I need 2 valve shims of 2.70mm and 1 shim of 2.60 mm
I don't found any valve shims seller having the shims in stock but I found this website for buying them:
http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1530
I had some trouble with the camshaft bolts. The T30 socket seems to be little bit small and the T35 doesn't fit.
I will have some trouble also for tighten the bolts under the frame body booster because the T30 socket is too tall and I don't have enough space for the torque wrench.
Consequently I should replace the bolts with standard stainless steel Hex bolts.
Can I replace them or there will be some temperature/dilatation problem ?

Thank you very much for the support gave me until now.

jimmyj900

I can't advise you on replacing the bolts since I don't know what the critical specifications are. Your safest bet is to keep them stock.

Jim

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jimmyj900

So if the valve adjustment didn't cause the backfiring, that leaves dirt on a valve seat causing it to hang open or the 'oddball' possibilty that somebody had a couple of the plug wires switched around at some time.

Jim

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polex

Sorry, but I don't understand what do you mean.
I think if the spark plug wire was switched the engine can not work at all.

The cylinder 3 black spark plug remains a mystery.
I though this scenario: the inlet valve of cylinder 3 was been open for some years and get rusty.
After restarting the engine was happens some back fire which burned the diaphragm.
I think that is almost improbable that the dirt or rust remains on the valve after riding 700 miles.
I suppose that after 700 miles the valve should clear or burned.
In the case of burned valve I should find the valve clearance below the specification.
Then i suppose that the valves are OK.
The other valve was below the standard clearance because the Triumph "Quality Assurance" is not the best in the world and/or because the settling-down period.
After viewing the camshaft I think that the engine is in good condition.

This week-end the shims should be arrived, then I will reassemble camshafts, cam-chain tensioner, etc.
I ordered also the nology coils but the delivery should be the next week.
For the moment I have in my mind some test:

1) gill coils static test: I connect an AA battery to the high voltage side of the coil and I measure the current, the resistance of the coil should be (1.5-0.6)/I , the 0.6 volts take in to account the internal diode.

2) Spark tests
3) start the engine and touch the collector of carburetor 3 if the collector becames hot, probably, there is a real back fire in this case I don't know how to do.
4) Move diaphragm 3 to carb. 1 and verify if the problem move to cyl.1
5) Move the coil and spark plug of the cyl. 3 with to the cyl. 1 and verify if the problem moves to cyl. 1

By viewing the result of this tests I will decide what kind of other test I can will do.

Until now I have not found any serious problem or any sign indicating that the motorcycle has ridden more miles that indicated.

Any suggestion are welcome.

Thank you.

jimmyj900

If the coil wires are switched, there is a possibility that one cylinder will fire during the intake cycle and ignite the incoming fuel/air back to the carburetor. It depends on which two wires are switched.

The engine will not run but the carb will be damaged while trying to start the bike.


On the coil testing, there appear to be two diodes in series connected between the primary and secondary. The primary side should read 0.06 ohms, but the secondary measurements will vary depending on the voltage applied and the characteristics of the diodes.

The easiest test is to hang a spare spark plug from a coil wire, apply a good ground from the big end of the plug to the chassis, crank the engine and observe the spark.

A fat blue spark shows a good coil. A thin yellow spark shows a weak coil.

If you find a weak coil (or two) check the connections for corrosion and tightness before you buy new coils.

Three weak sparks probably means that the battery is weak or the connections are not good.

Let us know how it goes!

Jim

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polex

I changed the valve shims, I rechecked the valve clearance.
I checked also the vacuum valves of the carburetor and all move smoothly and they close at the same speed. Then I suppose the diaphragm works fine despite the fact that is damaged.
I reassemble the carburetors. I also replaced the coolant liquid.
I made the spark test. The coil of cylinder 3 (having black spark plug) gives an invisible spark. Also the spark of Cylinder 1 provide a small spark. The coil 2 gives a bigger spark but was yellow.

I remember the impressive spark of my Suzuki DR650 having CDI ignition. The spark was generated also without the spark plug. The 1 inch spark comes directly from the plug of the spark-plug and burned the paint of the frame.

Anyway Despite the spark test fails, I try to switch-on the engine and runs better than before at the idle.
I am waiting for nology coils.

jimmyj900

Excellent!!!!

Jim

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CAUTION: This post may have been altered and critical safety information deleted without the permission or knowledge of the author.

polex

Thank you Jim, your knowledge about Triumph is impressive.
I mounted the nology coils but the cylinder 3 doesn't works yet.
I disconnected cylinder 3 spark-plug and the idle is the same.
I exchanged spark-plug, cable, diaphragm, needle of the cyl. 1 with the cyl. 3, but the problem is still on cyl. 3.
I touched the exhaust collector of cyl 2 and 3, at the idle cyl.3 remains cold.
Only after accelerating it becames hot.
After reassembling the carburetors, I reduced the idle speed, probably I have to resynchronize the carbs.
I think the valve are OK because I succeeded in carbs sync.
But, in order to be sure about the valve, I would like measure the compression.
Where can i buy a manometer for this purpose ?
After the compression test I will try to move jets from cyl.1 to 3.
Are there any other part which I can exchange between carbs/cylinders ?